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Black paint jobs


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So I quite often hear tamiya spray can is the best to do black paint jobs with, why is that so? I'm curious? That and prep wrk goes a lo way of course . If I was to use duplicolor will I get a good paint job or results? What if I was to use cheap walmart $1 spray can ?

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I love Tamiya paints and use them all the time, but your question is best answered with an old saw. The magic is in the magician, not the wand. There is no paint that guarantees the finish you want. I use many different types of paints. I also have several different airbrushes and use brushes and rattle cans as well. In my life, each has a use and purpose. What I will say, is that I have developed techniques that give me what I want and it took years to get there. Tamiya is good paint as is Dupicolor. Don't know about Wal-Mart stuff, but if you practice and work with it, I am sure you can get what you want.

Strong suggestion. Pick a paint and get a note book. Every time you try it, note the temperature and humidity, conditions in the room where you painted and how thick or thin you laid the paint down. Write down comments about the result. After a little while you will have a digest of what works for you and more importantly, what doesn't. Sticking with one brand of paint gives you the best chance to succeed. Each of the above conditions will affect different companies paints differently and you will wind up with too many variables to draw any meaningful conclusions. Keep in mind, the quality of the paint job is a result of the painter and not the paint.

Edited by Pete J.
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I've had good results using both Tamiya and Duplicolor Black paint with a clearcoat, then polishing it out.. Smooth prep work is essential for a nice, smooth finish because Black will show any waviness and/or imperfections in the bodywork. I've also had good results using Duplicolor Black Primer under Duplicolor clearcoat and polished.

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Good advice Pete, the paint job is the result of the painter, and not the paint.

Nick has a good point. I have used Krylon short cuts flat black and cleared it with Testors wet look clear lacquer. Krylon short cut flat black looks like a semi gloss. Another way to go is the black one coat by Testors. Easier to use but has metal flake in it...

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Personal technique on Tamiya paints. The nozzle on these puts out a lot of paint. As a result you need to move pretty fast to get thin coats. I hold the can about 6 to 8 inches from the model and move very quickly. One or two very light passes per coat. You won't get full coverage until the third coat. 15 to 30 minutes between coats. Heat the cans in hot water and shake them thoroughly before you heat them. This will give the propellant that you mixed into the paint with shaking time to come out of the paint. Just before you spray, turn the can upside down and swirl the paint around. This will mix the paint but unlike shaking will not mix more propellant into the paint.

The science behind this technique- Tamiya paints are synthetic lacquers and dry fairly quickly. When the paint sits on the shelf, the solids settle to the bottom of the can. You need to shake the can vigorously to remix the solids, the carrier and the solvents. Unfortunately this introduces propellant in the form of dissolved gas into the paint. If you spray with the paint in this condition you will get bubbles in the paint as the propellant outgasses. The paint takes a while to settle out, so I you mix the paint thoroughly with shaking then let it set for about 5 minutes. The propellant will exit the paint and you only need a little mixing to get the paint mixed again. Swirling the paint is like stirring and will not reintroduce propellant into the mix. A little swirling just before you paint should be enough.

Heating the paint increases the pressure in the can and atomizes the paint into smaller droplets of paint coming out of the nozzle. Smaller droplets means a more even coat. Warmer paint and smaller droplets mean you have to get closer to the surface so the solvent doesn't have time to evaporate on the way to the surface. If the paint is too dry before it gets to the surface it won't flow out properly and you will get orange peel or a really dull surface.

Multiple very thin coats is the way to go. The solvent offgases(dries) quicker out of thin coats than thick coats. A coat of paint twice as thick take four to six times as long to offgas, so 3 or 4 thin coats with 15 minutes between coats, will be ready for polishing in a quarter of the time as a couple of thick coats.

Good luck and have fun!.

If you would like more on painting with Tamiya paints, here is an article I wrote years ago about how to use their paints: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/painting-with-tamiya-synthetic-lacquers-35?category_id=8&type=article#.VNJrd3mBGpo

Edited by Pete J.
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half the beauty of Tamiya paint is the nozzle. it really is miles beyond Model Master nozzles on their cans, and I never could get comfortable with those duplicolor/krylon/etc soft touch nozzles, plus they just seem to plug up at the slightest provocation, even when you clear them after use.

but the paint itself is very nice too and it shrinks by at least 50% as it dries so what seems like a lot coming out can be deceptive, after it dries often you need another coat because the first was so thin.

its kinda magic, and magic costs more as we all know

jb

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