torinobradley Posted April 12, 2011 Posted April 12, 2011 I got the urge to start this one. At first, I figured it was going to be an easy build as the model kit appeared to be acceptably accurate with only a few mods. The more research I did and the more I looked at the kit, the more I found that I decided to change. I have about 10 hours invested in it so far. The base kit Where the chassis is at. I removed the foot well plates, relocated the battery to the passenger side, removed the spare tire well and replaced frame supports. Last pic is the center trans support modded to look more like the original. In this one, you can see the main driveshaft with the center section replaced with polished aluminum, pulleys devoid of the molded in belts, two prototype taillight trim pieces, the grill surround with the center section cut out (super thin...) and a piece of masking tape. Here is the grill surround in the body and here is the taillight trim in the body Lots of other plans for this one. Removed the cast in fuel pump, replacing the half shafts with polished aluminum, and trying my hand at those beautiful headers, replacing those undersized, ugly and incorrectly routed headers on the car. Also radiusing the rear wheel wells, adding the metal skirting on the fenders, trimming the lower rockers, serial numbering the chassis, chain mounts for the headers, creating the headlight area and lucas lights, open grill, etc... The decal sheet, along with the VRM Grand Sport set have all the decals needed (Traco engine decals, Sebring inspection decal) and have the MCG detail set on the way for the correct Corvette scripts and steering wheel. Will also order the Sunoco paints from MCW. Will also be adding those things not included in the kit like the power brake booster and specific to the 1966 427 L88 master cylinder (the real master cylinders go for over 1k!), steering box, fuel filler and the like. So far, this is a fun project. Comments and feedback welcome and encouraged.
dwc43 Posted April 12, 2011 Posted April 12, 2011 Off to a good start. Really want to see the headers. Wont the drive shaft be painted white like most every race car I have ever seen per the rules? I mean the alum. shafts look good, but incorrect for most every modern race car ever built. They look more in place on factory stock late model street cars though. I know I twisted a drive shaft out of my dirt car one night and if it was not painted white, no one would have seen it before it was too late. Bad part is the other half stayed in the car and beat it up. Punched three nice long slotted holes in the floor right beside my seat.
torinobradley Posted April 12, 2011 Author Posted April 12, 2011 The colors and materials are based on the restoration of the chassis. Here's a pic of the restored chassis: http://public.fotki.com/JCole/11_chevy__gmc/11_corvette_race_i/corvette_1966_roger-4.html Maybe when they were raced, they were white. I don't know the rules and how far back in years they go. I will have to look that up though. Thanks for the tidbit and interesting story.
dwc43 Posted April 12, 2011 Posted April 12, 2011 Welcome,anytime. I'm not real sure on that car, but something to check on if you are going for accuracy. I know some put an alum. shaft in the NASCAR cars and I know for fact those are white since the 60's. And thanks for the pics. Enjoyed them.
Jon Cole Posted April 13, 2011 Posted April 13, 2011 Glad to see this car getting the full-on detail treatment. Also glad you found my photo album! That is what they are there for!
torinobradley Posted April 13, 2011 Author Posted April 13, 2011 Many thanks to all of your kind words! Trying to keep the momentum and while not going full detail on this one, making it interesting enough and doing some experementing along the way. Those safety wires are going to be a bear to get done. Anyone know of a source for such fine wire? Glad to see this car getting the full-on detail treatment. Also glad you found my photo album! That is what they are there for! I can't tell you how valuable your album is, especially on this car. I think the owner of the car took down his pictures so these are the best I've been able to find concerning the chassis. The one for VRM is a good one too, especially concerning Grand Sports. You have several of the cars slated to cross my bench in your album, along with some others I am considering now that I've seen them...
Cato Posted April 13, 2011 Posted April 13, 2011 Those safety wires are going to be a bear to get done. Anyone know of a source for such fine wire? Andrew, Not sure what safety wire you're referring to but the wire I use on my Halibrands is .032" stainless. That's .001 in 1/25th-the approximate diameter of a human hair...
stewart Posted April 13, 2011 Posted April 13, 2011 Nice build so far. I like your modifications STewart
torinobradley Posted April 13, 2011 Author Posted April 13, 2011 Andrew, Not sure what safety wire you're referring to but the wire I use on my Halibrands is .032" stainless. That's .001 in 1/25th-the approximate diameter of a human hair... Where can I find that?
jeff ewaskey Posted April 13, 2011 Posted April 13, 2011 Really diggin the reasearch you are putting in to build this as accurately as possible. No doubt its going to turn out awesome. I have the same kit but I bought it with the intent to do a street car conversion but think I may change my plans. Will be following your build to see if its something I may want to try.
Cato Posted April 13, 2011 Posted April 13, 2011 Where can I find that? Not sure I understand your question. I should clarify, I meant 1:1 Halibrands seen here with safety wire: You don't say where you want this wire for but wheel knockoffs use .032". Since I know of no .001" wire for model use maybe you can try human hair. No one makes safety wire pliers for the twists however...
Tom Reid Posted April 13, 2011 Posted April 13, 2011 I have some wire that is .0015 to .002... Thats as close as i can get. It is "angel hair" wire from a wheel speed sensor harness on a grand am...
Cato Posted April 13, 2011 Posted April 13, 2011 I have some wire that is .0015 to .002... Thats as close as i can get. It is "angel hair" wire from a wheel speed sensor harness on a grand am... Well thanks Tom-I didn't know that was available. .0015" would be perfect-if he could twist it. They'll be a rash of Grand Ams with non-working ETC's...
torinobradley Posted April 13, 2011 Author Posted April 13, 2011 I have some wire that is .0015 to .002... Thats as close as i can get. It is "angel hair" wire from a wheel speed sensor harness on a grand am... Would I be able to throw something at you for some or do I need to go find a Grand Am to raid? Most bolts and nuts in the engine bay seem to have the wire on them. Gonna be interesting to say the least, but if I can pull it off...
Tom Reid Posted April 13, 2011 Posted April 13, 2011 (edited) lol,I would send him a section of it, but its not really worth postage. It might be hard to find though. The original harness was replace by these because of internal breaks. Good luck. Edit: I could send you some to see if it will work. go ahead and email me your info. Edited April 13, 2011 by Tom Reid
torinobradley Posted April 13, 2011 Author Posted April 13, 2011 lol,I would send him a section of it, but its not really worth postage. It might be hard to find though. The original harness was replace by these because of internal breaks. Good luck. Edit: I could send you some to see if it will work. go ahead and email me your info. Thank you sir. I sent it on over. Let me know if your looking for anything.
Cato Posted April 13, 2011 Posted April 13, 2011 Most bolts and nuts in the engine bay seem to have the wire on them. That's the first time you divulged where they're used. I see (with magnifier) the steering gear box, header bolts, control arm pivot and the alt. bracket. If you must do this, I think straight lengths of the wire would be best to replicate the look. Any glue needs a bigger area than .0015" to hold anything. I also think it's overkill on the restored chassis-doubt they raced that way.
torinobradley Posted April 13, 2011 Author Posted April 13, 2011 That's the first time you divulged where they're used. I see (with magnifier) the steering gear box, header bolts, control arm pivot and the alt. bracket. If you must do this, I think straight lengths of the wire would be best to replicate the look. Any glue needs a bigger area than .0015" to hold anything. I also think it's overkill on the restored chassis-doubt they raced that way. Sorry about that. I forget that everyone else doesn't know what I know sometimes... Yea, even the air cleaner wing nut has a retaining wire. Would be interesting to see if that was just a team thing or actual regulations regarding anything that could come loose. Still working out how I'm going to do it. I may end up drilling really little holes next to the bolts and 'sewing' the wires in & out. That would give it the look without the glue concerns. Just got to remember not to glue on some of the parts yet... Oh, and yes, I am a glutton for punishment.
Belair2k Posted April 14, 2011 Posted April 14, 2011 Rats. I just painted mine 2 days ago and didn't add any details so far other than paint on the chassis and engine. If I had seen this thread a few days ago I'd have another never ending build on my hands. I do admire your detailing efforts and it'll look great when finished. I'll be following wit great interest.
torinobradley Posted April 15, 2011 Author Posted April 15, 2011 Rats. I just painted mine 2 days ago and didn't add any details so far other than paint on the chassis and engine. If I had seen this thread a few days ago I'd have another never ending build on my hands. I do admire your detailing efforts and it'll look great when finished. I'll be following wit great interest. Now, I gotta say, considering the last few builds I got myself into, I truly admire being able to control oneself and not try to fix anything (or everything) wrong with a kit or not put wires and other details into a build. I keep telling myself my next build will be a simple, box stock build but noooooooooo.... I got do the details. And I can't just paint it any color blue, I got to get the right colors and the right parts and all that other static that drags builds out to years instead of weeks or months. Like my signature says, "Box stock? Tried it once - Didn't work out..." Never regret not doing more, just go further on the next one. At least that's my opinion... BTW, show us yours. I would love to see what you did with it. Build on, my friends!
robertw Posted April 15, 2011 Posted April 15, 2011 Look forward to your build of this kit since it's also my my someday list. robw
torinobradley Posted April 29, 2011 Author Posted April 29, 2011 Okay, stole some time to do a bit more than grok the kit and here's where I got. Am planning on using the little fishing lure bearings for the light buckets and some of them have this little 'tab' attached to the hole. I looked at it and saw it looked like the center portion of the Lucas lights so with a little test fitting, this is what I got... Cut the molded-in light covers out (very tricky with the bottom grill surround) and filled it with plastic. A little preview of the headlights. I had previously trimmed the rocker pannel to match the real car. And this is the nose I cut off another body and am in the process of filling the headlight covers so I can vacu-form clear plastic over it and make fairly thin covers. Still doing research and gathering parts. Gotta find a photo-etched alternator fan because I found two watch parts that fit together and look like the deep-groove pully. Will order it from MCG and get a nice fan and alternator bracket to boot.. As always, comments and questions welcome and encouraged.
seeker589 Posted May 1, 2011 Posted May 1, 2011 I was thinking today of how I was gonna make headlight covers for my Vette project I'm planning. Would you be interested in making a vacuum form of that front end for me?
Danno Posted May 1, 2011 Posted May 1, 2011 Ambitious!! Can't wait to see it finished. Looks like you're off to a great start.
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