Darren B Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) I just started a brand new project and messed up the body line over the top of the drivers door. I made the mistake of not making the door gap deeper before sanding off the drip rail and as I tried to make the door gap more pronounced and it got off track, its actually higher at the front of the door than the back of the door. My question is , is there a way to fix this by maybe filling in the gap and re scribing over it? It is not that big of deal but when I look at it I can see it and its annoying me that I did not scribe the door line deeper before sanding off the drip rail. Edited May 25, 2015 by Darren B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaughingIndian Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 You might be better off cutting the door out, sharpening the edges with the filler of your choice and reassembling. No filler is going to hold a scribed edge unless it's a super hard something or other ... and then you'll have to scribe again, but now in some super hard material. My opinion anyway ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren B Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) Thank you Mike, I thought about that at first and your right about the harder filler which would be hard to re scribe in, you are probably right , I would open them up and hinge the doors but the front fender is very close to the door and the door would work better tucking in under the fender so Im gonna give that a try, I can add more plastic to the door and body to fix it. Edited May 25, 2015 by Darren B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Draggon Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Route out the area about 1/8 inch around the scribed line. Fill it with Bondo and sand down to the original body contours, then using masking tape as a guide, rescribe. The bondo is soft enough that it makes scribing a good line extremely easy, yet tough enough to hold up under the remaining body work. Beleive me, it works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren B Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) Thanks Glenn i am not good at scribing so the thought of trying it again was to much after all. I already opened the door and I was looking at it I may just hinge it, if not it will be easy now to add some plastic to the top of the roof over the door to straighten it out and then gluing it back in place with thin strips of plastic strip. Edited May 25, 2015 by Darren B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Check out this thread. Watch the video in post #3. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=101006&hl=scribe#entry1405848 The guy who does the vid states that correcting things like this is relatively east by filling the bad line with superglue (CAA). He also gives many great tips on getting it right. And as Glenn said, filling a deepened area with bondo and reworking the line works well if you're careful...and use a guide, as in the video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren B Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Thanks Bill that is cool thank you for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horsepower Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 I've fixed a couple of really messed up ones by first brush some hot liquid cement into the gap and letting it sit overnight then use some very thin strips of styrene sheet then sand the plastic to match the rest of the surface and after its set up for a couple of days rescribe the line and brush a coat of cement over the area before priming so the lines don't ghost back through your paint job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) Thanks Bill that is cool thank you for sharing. Glad you found it helpful, but thank southpier (Joe Smythe) for putting up the video link. I've come back to it several times, and found it to be just what I needed. Edited May 26, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roncla Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 All of Paul Budziks' series of videos on You Tube are an excellent resource no matter what you are building. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrdcVbQE5fUvTKxMbhnN_KQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
935k3 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Nothing beats Dymo brand label tapes for laying out lines to scribe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) Here's how I'd proceed with this: 1. Go ahead and scribe all the way through--remove the door. 2. Glue strip styrene or scrap styrene (sprue) to either the top of the doorframe or the top of the door (or both) with liquid styrene cement (VERY strong bond). Reshape both with file and sanding till the shape and fit suit you. 3. Reinstall the door. There's nothing that says that just 'cause you cut it out, you HAVE to hinge it! If hinging doesn't interest you, glue it back solid with thin sheet styrene tabs on the inside of the body. I have a very similar problem with an original annual AMT '69 Mustang I started as a kid, and messed up. This is pretty much how I'm gonna fix it. I HAVE filled scribing booboos with superglue and rescribed, but this is very exacting, tedious work, and it's easy to screw it up again. Good luck with your fix. Edited May 26, 2015 by Snake45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Another suggestion would be to melt some plastic in solvent like testors liquid glue to fill the probkem area and then rescribe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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