Simulating the texture of cast parts.

[Ognib]

The casting texture can be seen on the back of the engine while the bellhousing is smooth.

Any tips for adding a realistic casting texture to the bellhousing so it will visually match the engine?

Edited July 12, 2013 by Ognib

[Steven Zimmerman]

There are a couple ways to simulate this. One is to use "Faux Fabric" paint, and then paint over it with your chosen color. Another is to prime, then paint it with 'overspray', holding the can of paint at arms length and 'spritzing' the part with short bursts of paint until you get your desired result, then painting your color of choice. Another is to use hairspray, using the spritz method. I know there are other techniques, but these have worked for me.....'Z'

[Ace-Garageguy]

Steven's advice is right-on. Personally, I've been able to achieve a variety of textures by simply misting paint on from various distances.

[Harry P.]

The Faux-Fabric paint is foolproof, the "misting from a distance" method works too... but it's a bit hit or miss. It might take a few coats shot from various distances until you get the exact look you want.

[Ognib]

Thanks everyone!

Guess I'll be heading to hobby lobby for som faux-fabric paint & give it a try...I like foolproof methods.

[bmc010]

if i can add my two cents i like to use spray glue like fix a tif found in the local craft store...it works well for laying down vinyl tops as well...just have to practice on a junk piece first to achieve the right look...i only use it cause i have it laying around for matting photos!

[LDO]

Something done by armor modelers is to brush on some liquid cement, to soften up the surface of the plastic, then use a large, stiff paint brush to push into the softened plastic. MEK is great for this. It's really hot, so it will really soften up the plastic, plus it dries (evaporates?) quickly. The surface may get some tiny "strings" that look like cotton candy. Get rid of that with a couple of swipes with steel wool.

[Art Anderson]

Also, keep in mind that the sand-cast look on iron, even cast aluminum components isn't all that prominent a real automobile engine (foundry sand is rather fine), so some caution would be in order to not overdo, or overemphasize the cast-iron surface look.

Just sayin'

Art

[Foxer]

This thread got me to try some paints I had for texturing. The top rear end in the photo is Dupli-Color Textured Metallic Coating. The left side of the axle is the natural color and the right has a coat of Aluminum Plate Metalizer.

The lower one has Rust-Oleum Textured Fine Textured Finish which is White. It too had a coat of Aluminum Plate Metalizer.

Both gave similar texture which was pretty much to scale for 1/25 parts and I'll be using these in the future.

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Just curious, when you guys want to leave the raw cast iron loo, what colors are you using? A mixture of Testor's Metalizers, Alclad ? Ideas or suggestions appreciated.

[Bastardo]

Texture: Thick, unthinned enamel or acrylic paint painted at very high pressure. I usually use Revell enamel paints, don't thin them and airbrush them at about 3 bar of pressure.

[Shardik]

I've had good luck using Mr. Dissolved Putty applied with a piece of soft packing foam then touching up with a stiff brush.