Rob Hall Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 That seems weird that a tie rod would go through an oil pan..how would that work? Doesn't the tie rod need clearance to move when turning the left or right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 (edited) that was a great review and pictorial, Tim. One thing I really don't fathom is that deep sump oil pan...but with the proverbial axle hole in it (ok in this case I guess its for the tie rod but come on son!). maybe that gets hidden somehow? even though this car is pretty far from my interests, its still nice to be able to get a good look and historical perspective on these new releases. jb jb and Rob - I kind of wondered the same thing. But as I thought it through...the stock oil pan clears the tie rod and there is enough room inside for the rotating crank/rods et al. So if the new deep sump pan extends below the tie rod, it doesn't change the basic architecture of the engine above including the centerline of the crank rotation et al relative to the tie rod location. I checked the reference article but unfortunately there is no shot of the underside to further clarify this, but i expect the real car probably has an open-air tubular passageway that the tie rod inserts into from one side and comes out the other side, while the oil circulates inside the pan. The one low-angle action shots posted in the prior forum page by Brett and Scott seems to coincide at least theoretically with this approach. Can anyone who is more familiar with the subject add any info here? TIM Edited June 23, 2014 by tim boyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 I've seen pictures of the tie-rod-through-the-oil-pan setup and basically it's just a tube welded inside the oil pan and the tie rod passes through it. The ID of the tube is probably 3-4 times larger than the OD of the tie rod so there's some wiggle room. I've been trying to find a picture of it, but no luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffs396 Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 I've seen pictures of the tie-rod-through-the-oil-pan setup and basically it's just a tube welded inside the oil pan and the tie rod passes through it. The ID of the tube is probably 3-4 times larger than the OD of the tie rod so there's some wiggle room. I've been trying to find a picture of it, but no luck. Can't find a pic of an OEM pan from back in the day, but here's a new aftermarket: #31470 383-440 & HEMI - 81/4" DEEP, REAR SUMP Originally designed for Super Stock campaigners and today used on all Super Comp, Super Gas and bracket classes as well, this design moves the sump completely to the rear, where it should have been in the first place, and where the oil wants to go! Fits '65 and later chassis for all Wedge and Hemi engines. Pan and a Milodon oiling system will allow the 8500 RPM plus range. Uses a tie rod tube through which the drag link is inserted after engine installation. Minor drag link modification may be necessary due to frame, steering and engine mount misplacement or movement from stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1972coronet Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the great review , Tim ! Regarding the steering linkage through the oil pan sump ; Dandy Dick Landy had this exact setup on his A/MP 1970 Hemi Charger . I can only imagine that other Hemi-powered B & E Body MoPars had similar --if not exact-- arrangements . Apparently , the lifespan of these custom 10 qt pans wasn't too long , as the welds would fatigue in short order . Good call on the shifter for the Slick-Shift 4-speed ! I *believe* that the Reverse-Lockout was mandated for the 1968 or 1969 season (at least through NHRA's Super Stock class ...) . I was honestly expecting to see a Verti-Gate or Ram Rod shifter ; perhaps those didn't come along until c.1971 ? I , along with many others , welcome this edition of the 1970 Hemi'Cuda ! Kudos to Revell for working within the parametres of the existing tooling's technological-limitations (e.g. , the hood's integral scoop) to bring the huddled masses a much-needed kit ! Here's a gorgeous looking '70 'Cuda in race livery : Edited June 23, 2014 by 1972coronet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1972coronet Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 (edited) Courtesy of out beloved forum ; details of Landy's customised oil pan : http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=59278 Edited June 23, 2014 by 1972coronet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtienutz Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 many years ago my friend Frank Kokosza built an the must accurate 70 barracuda you can imagine. The Revell kit won't hold a candle to it. you can find lots of pictures and a description of what he did and what you might want to fix with the help of Frank's extensive research here. http://public.fotki.com/kokosza/scale_models/sox_and_martin_70_cuda/engine/ http://public.fotki.com/kokosza/scale_models/sox_and_martin_70_cuda/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 (edited) edit - I didn't see Jeff's earlier response, I was busy scouring the Google looking for homemade versions! Milodon makes deep sump oil pans with centerlink tubes already in there. Theirs have square tubes, but I've seen the homemade versions with round tube. Appears to be something necessary for Mopars with the stock K-member. I did find a pic of a homemade version on a Ford. You get the idea... Edited June 23, 2014 by Brett Barrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 One bit of good news is the 7-cylinder distributor has been corrected... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Courtesy of out beloved forum ; details of Landy's customised oil pan : http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=59278 Excellent! That's exactly what I had envisioned. Thanks John...TB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 I got the impression that they commissioned all the incorrect distributors to be fixed. Good to see evidence of it here. Thanks Brett....TB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caine440 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Thanks for the detailed review. I am thrilled this kit is out. After 44 years the Sox & Martin cars still find a place on the hobby shops shelves. I will be building one but I think I will use paint and slixx decals. It will set nev Thanks again to Revell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Spent last night filling the marker lights and slots for the side mirrors. Also trimmed off the molding around the wheel wells since a drag racer wouldn't have them. Just doing that makes a huge difference in the look of the fender flares. Not perfect, but soooooo much better. I'm now convinced that Revell must have used a car without those fender moldings during the development of this kit and the chrome moldings were added later (probably in the computer) . I had prepared one body that I had totally sanded off all of the fender flares and was going to rebuild them, but after just removing the molding from this 2nd body I'm 100% satisfied with the result. I'll snap some pictures this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Ellis Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 What killed the Sox and Martin team was the advance of automatic transmissions. Ronny Sox could manually shift faster than any human being alive, but by 1973, he couldn't out do an automatic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caine440 Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 That and NHRA adding so much weight to the Hemi cars. The Ramchargers book has a great chapter on the attitude NHRA had towards the Chrysler camp. By Automatic I assume you mean the lenco. It made a lot of average drivers suddenly competitive that is sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Finally turned up that pic I knew I had of an S&M oil pan, this one is on the 68 Cuda that also underwent a restoration around the same time as the 1970. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbuzzed Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 That and NHRA adding so much weight to the Hemi cars. The Ramchargers book has a great chapter on the attitude NHRA had towards the Chrysler camp. By Automatic I assume you mean the lenco. It made a lot of average drivers suddenly competitive that is sure. The NHRA and NASCAR were on the same wagon. In order to stop the whining from the other manufacturers, both sanctioning bodies made changes that took away the edge that the Mopars had with the Hemi and (in NASCAR) the aerodynamics, in the form of Daytonas and Superbirds. In my humble opinion, what they should have said to the whiners was: "So, go build a better engine. This IS a competitive sport, you know." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Finally turned up that pic I knew I had of an S&M oil pan, this one is on the 68 Cuda that also underwent a restoration around the same time as the 1970. Cool Brett! Thanks a bunch....TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Kourouklis Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 WOW, great shot, Brett, and thanks for that post! Yeah, all this complaining lately... It honestly took me 20 mins to fix the wheel arches on my cuda build. I remember when kits WERE terrible. Collect die cast models if you don't want to do a little work to make a kit your own Let the nit picking begin. Right, 'cause complaining ABOUT the complaining is such an obviously superior approach. Diecasts are the ONLY REFUGE of the "nit-picker", then, huh? So say somebody points out how pea-brained it is (not an accidental choice of words, btw) for a manufacturer to include historic sedan markings in a coupe kit... well that's just necessarily, inevitably, absolutely 'cause he's TOTALLY INCAPABLE of FIXING that problem, right? Without a molecule of resin, by the way. Right? Have I thanked you guys lately? 'Cause your comments exemplify a great deal of what that whole Olds exercise was about. And I'll be having my rough little way with that kind of "logic" AGAIN when I tackle my own '70 'Cuda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Tim, question? Where would lines for the cool can be routed to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 (edited) Looks like a nice kit! I'll have to grab this one. And Slixx will have Don Grotheer's '70 Cuda Pro Stock decals available soon The HemiCuda kit is not perfect, but I still had a good time building mine and it's one of my favorites on my shelves right now http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=83777&hl=hemicuda Marcos, here's a pic, one line goes in from the tank, the other one goes out to the carbs Edited June 24, 2014 by Bruno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitro norman Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 I just wish Revell would do a 67- 69 Barracuda ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 (edited) Tim, question? Where would lines for the cool can be routed to? Bruno's pic shows how the cool can itself if plumbed, this shows how the fuel lines are routed to the carbs - Note that the 1:1 lacks an alternator and power brake booster. I wonder what the thing on the driver's side is, a tach drive? Edited June 26, 2014 by Brett Barrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hall Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 Hmmm...I can see no power brakes (but even drag cars need to stop), but no alternator? How does an engine run without one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob terry Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 The alternator is for keeping the battery charged. This car does not appear to be running a magneto, the distributor that fires the plugs is getting voltage from the coil and battery. Hook up the battery charger between rounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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