Nitrozilla Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 First up is the new gauge cluster. I used Model Car Garage gauges and bezels. The gauges are black and transparent, so you put the gauge color on the back. I chose Model Master Cadmium Yellow. Shows up great when you hit it with a flashlight. Here's my quandry. As you can see from the overhead shot, the tin work is 1/4' short of where it needs to be. I can only think of 3 possible fixes. 1 - Extend the tin and doghouse, but that still leaves the motor too far back and you wont see the blower hat at the window. 2 - Install a new cross member for the body hinge further forward. Unfortunately, some idiot put a battery box there. 3 - Take 1/4" out of the roof and bring the windshield back to meet the tin. I'm going to do more assembly on the frame before I start hacking on the body (AGAIN). The stance on the front is too low, but easily fixable. John Teresi and anyone else who has done this build, if you ran into this, I'd appreciate your input. Thanx for lookies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Do a search site:modelcarsmag.com charlie allen the fifth item down is a biuld by fuel coupe he made his own tinwork and his engine sits where yours does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Thanx Bob. Shane's build is also one of my inspirations and subject of research. However, while looking at his build again, I see where the difference is. His rear axle sits further back than mine. I considered moving mine for 3.5 seconds before eliminating that possibility. This is what happens when I don't do a full mock up before paint and starting assembly. Lesson learned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 A4 this point I would modify the tinwork. I think it would be the easiest fix and from the pictures fuel coupe funny car the blower looks like it is in the same spot. And yes on test fitting and mock ups I've been bit by the same bug a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 I think I've got it figured out. The fix is 3 step. 1 - Extend main body tin 1/4" under trunk. That will fix the length to mate to the front window. 2 - Reposition oil filters closer to oil tank, then bring engine / cockpit (it's a sub assembly) forward. 3 - Fill in gap behind cockpit created by engine / cockpit assembly moving forward. If it makes sense in your head, terrific. If not, pictures later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJJeff Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 On my Nicholson Cyclone I ended up moving the interior pan and engine forward a bit. It put the motor closer to the windshield and brought the roll cage inside of the rear window. Of course, that required a longer driveshaft, cramped the fuel tank,fuel pump and steering shaft......lol. It's all part of the "fun"! Keep at it, you'll find something that works for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 On my Nicholson Cyclone I ended up moving the interior pan and engine forward a bit. It put the motor closer to the windshield and brought the roll cage inside of the rear window. Of course, that required a longer driveshaft, cramped the fuel tank,fuel pump and steering shaft......lol. It's all part of the "fun"! Keep at it, you'll find something that works for you! I considered the longer driveshaft and the crampage of the pump to tank ratio. Did not figure on the steering shaft. Thanks for the heads up Jeff. You said the fun starts WHEN???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 Praise be to the Gods of Plastique and Resin. I've started the fixes and I don't have to do that major roof mod I was considering. Engine is moved forward with new mounts and a new mount for the oil filters also. Fuel pump is installed and set as far back as possible without hitting pulleys. The final length of the tin extension will be determined once the engine is in it's final position. Still some figetting to do. The last mod will be filling in the gap between the interior pan and the rear suspension. Now we ARE having fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Fixs look good so far. Glad you were able to solve it. Looking forward to more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 You want more Bob? Try this on for size. I've finished the mods to correct EVERYTHING concerning tin / engine / stance / global warming / world peace. Yeah, it feels that good. Enjoy the pics. I do....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Nice save. Never fun when a build has an unexpected surprise. But it feels good when you can work around a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brett Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 looking good Joe, guessing I'm gonna have the same fun when I start my Goeske Roadrunner next year. Hey at least the cockpit assembly is easily enough moved in these Polar lights kits, imagine if it was a Revell chassis , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 Nice save. Never fun when a build has an unexpected surprise. But it feels good when you can work around a problem. Thanx Bob. It feels good to come up with a solution that won't look like it wasn't designed that way. looking good Joe, guessing I'm gonna have the same fun when I start my Goeske Roadrunner next year. Hey at least the cockpit assembly is easily enough moved in these Polar lights kits, imagine if it was a Revell chassis , Thank You Brett. I do love the fact that the engine and interior tin become one piece that you can slide forward to fit any set up. Gotta get me more of these PL kits. I can make almost any body work with it now. The only trick I know with the Revell chassis is how to correct the stance with the rear axle mount. Next up is the interior, Made a nifty little throttle pedal set up today using the kit pedal with a photo etch pedal. It also has a toe hook and the start of the throttle linkage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ira Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Great Progress Joe! Real Nice Details... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) Great Progress Joe! Real Nice Details... I saw your Rrrobot Ira. You know a thing or 12 about details yourself sir. Thank You Speaking of which, that's what I've done so far today. Started the interior filler piece. The first pic shows a pile of scrap I hit when needed. The piece I grabbed was already an exact fit. Too funny. I thought I needed 1/4". Turns out it's 5/16". Good thing I checked first. The cage is blended and paint repaired. Here's a pic of the Go Fast pedal. After the clear red dries on the pedal face, I'll scrape it with an X-Acto to clean the raised ribs. Not sure how "pedaling" a car was done back then, but I put on a toe loop just in case. Thanks for following along. Edited October 26, 2014 by Nitrozilla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truck parts Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Looking great,outstanding build so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Teresi Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Joe........the details are wonderful........you are doing an Awesome job on this build........Kudos to you my friend.......can`t wait for the next up-date Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Looking great,outstanding build so far. Thanks Gordon. I appreciate it. Joe........the details are wonderful........you are doing an Awesome job on this build........Kudos to you my friend.......can`t wait for the next up-date Thank you John. Kudos accepted and just for that, here's that update you asked for. I'm moving on to the cockpit, installing the seat, fire extinguisher, go fast pedal and shifter. Next comes the throttle linkage, brake M/C assembly and steering column. There will be a small plate behind the roll cage where I'll attach the shoulder belts after I make a bracket for them. Also been playing with positioning the side tins. I added 2 long braces under the tin work. Reason? The Barracuda body it was designed to fit has an upward arc that had to be flattened out for the Shoebox I'm trying to stuff it in. Also the side pieces needed to be set back to clear the fender wells. Now lemme see.......It's 5:30 in the morning. I MIGHT be able to squeeze in another update before the day is out. Enjoy the pics and Thanks for looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 As hoped for (amazing) I got to another update. Been doing tin work most of the day. Suuuuper tedious. Grind, fit, chop, fit, slice, fit, sand, fit. That kinda thing, but worth it. I haven't test fit it yet, although I'm sure minor adjustments will be needed. Made a piece to fill in behind the cockpit and I believe I'll make a couple of small side pieces under it to hide that gap too. The frame doesn't make the inward angle until well after the bottom of the cockpit and if I hadn't moved the whole thing forward, it would have mated to it. The cut off wheel is only holding down the seatbelts to keep them out of the picture. It will not be a part of the cockpit. Drivehaft is ready to install. Thought I'd even throw a balance weight on it. Enjoy Folk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) The side bulkheads are permanent. I've made end plates that are shaped like a Dart, not a Barracuda. Everywhere you see bare plastic is a mod or a fix. This is a "body up" pic that shows braces under the hood. I might give that a shot as soon as I get some plastic. Also got the rear cockpit filler piece done. Later today, I'll shoot all of the tin work again. Thanks for looking. Edited October 30, 2014 by Nitrozilla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 Gonna' bore everyone to death with a couple of minor goodies. Messed with the trans pan I pulled from a Hawaiian. Clear red over chrome, then buffed ribs and bolt heads. Made the shoulder belt bracket and a bolt. I used scrap plastic and thin rod for the bracket. I also used round rod and hex rod to make a retaining bolt. It should be installed tomorrow along with most other cockpit parts. Back to work I go. Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 (edited) Hey All. The cockpit is just about done. I still need to hook up the belts, wire the gauges, pad the back braces on the roll cage and plumb the master cylinder. That will happen when I permanently install the roll cage and the engine. After that will come the tanks and the rest of the lines. Thanks for looking. Edited November 2, 2014 by Nitrozilla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo nova Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 look'n sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Teresi Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Joe .........absolutley stunning.......the details are AWESOME.........I thought I did a good job with mine but,yours is just to dang good my friend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 look'n sharp Thanks James. Nothing dull about it yet. Joe .........absolutley stunning.......the details are AWESOME.........I thought I did a good job with mine but,yours is just to dang good my friend John, that is mighty nice of you to say. Too bad they'll never be on the same table together. I hate watching a grown man cry. By "grown man", I mean me. Today has been oodles of fun. Been attacking the roll bar padding. I had 3 choices for the padding. Paint, electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Paint would not look realistic, I had a nightmare of the gooey tape adhesive failing in a contest against John and the shrink tube sounded like a pain in the ..........well, let's just say that's what I went with. I was wrong. I started by using a piece of scrap rod the same diameter as the cage ribs, then I bent it to match. Next I split a piece of 3/16" tubing, then wrapped it around the rod. As I applied heat by lighter it conformed perfectly with a slight bulge at the curve. After trimming to length, I popped them on easily. The straps are silver wire. The wrapping process is too tedious to detail, but that didn't stop me from doing it 10 times. Now try doing all of that while watching NASCAR and The Drags. Thanks everyone for following and the nice words. It's appreciated. Enjoy the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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