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Dan Gurney's '68 Indy 500 Ride


ismaelg

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Guts is not the word. Imagine hitting the wall with fuel tanks on both of your hips! Saftey has come a long way. I've been eyeing this kit for awhile. I'll be following closely!

Actually, those side-mounted fuel tanks, by 1968, were quite safe, especially in wall contact. Beginning with the 1965 Championship Season, USAC mandated that all cars (rear engine AND roadsters--yes, there were still roadsters running!) have their fuel tanks fitted with Mil-Spec aircraft style fuel cells. Proof of the efficacy of this rule was quick: In the second week of practice that year at Indy, Jim Hurtubise smacked the wall in his new Halibrand Shrike, grinding the aluminum shell off the right side fuel tank (that tank was slung on the side of the tub). The damaged tank, with badly scuffed and scraped fuel cell exposed, was on display for several years in the Speedway Museum, testifying to the ruggedness of the fuel cell system.

There were a few occasions where drivers were burned by spilling fuel in crashes, most notably Mel Kenyon, at Langhorne PA in 1968, and Mike Mosley in the 4th turn at Indy in 1971. In both crashes, the rupture of the fuel cells came not from wall contact, but from their cars having been hit hard by others caught up in the incidents. In 1973, David "Salt" Walther's McLaren climbed the outside wall just at the start/finish line just as the green flag was dropped, and the entire front of the McLaren's tub was literally sheered away by a catch fence post, including the ends of both fuel cells, causing burning methanol to spray all over the place, including the front row or two of spectator seating. Swede Savage's crash at the head of the front stretch in 1973 resulted in the total disintegration of the entire car, with fiery results.

However, the side mounting of fuel tanks has by and large been pretty safe, once the installation of fuel cells, and for 1974 and beyond, fuel was limited to the left side of the tub only (the side that seldom ever hits the wall at any serious velocity), and beginning with IRL's own chassis formula in 1977, fuel tanks were moved to the centerline of the chassis, between driver and engine.

Biscuitbuilder

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Awesome build Izzy, I too cannot build out of the box. And as to Art's comment on the sound of the Ford 4cam

I concur it is awesome also another Ford you can always tell on the track is a 427 Cobra as it too has a sound all its own!

A 427 side oiler in a Cobra can give your teeth a sonic cleaning your dental hygienist would envy, but the 255cid 4-cam? Those felt like someone twisting screwdrivers in my ears!

Biscuitbuilder

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Thanks dub, But I'm nowhere near Bill or his creations. This will be a rather simpler build just for fun. :)

Thanks,

Talk about humble! ...and funny too! All on the same line of text! Let me tell you Izzy, every build I see of yours on here gets much better than the last. You really have the eye, and your ability is up there with the rest of the masters on this board. Don't sell yourself short. ....except maybe on that crazy part! :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here we go again...

Boy this is tiny! Getting the geometry right was more challenging than I thought. The small diameter vertical link between the sway bar and the bottom A arm is steel wire. And guess what: it draws blood!!! it pierces like crazy, especially your fingers. <_< OUCH!

The top of the pivot is a pin head. The brake line is wire. There is plastic, aluminum, steel and brass in there.

OK, 1 corner down, 3 more to go.

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Thanks,

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Hello there friend! Is there an aftermarket company for replacing plastic parts with metals. i have fallen in love with the suspension on the gurney and was curious as to the materials used. Excellent progess so far fella. Keep on wit the keepin on. Will mos-def keep in touch with this build.

Peace

AJulia

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TEST: THIS IS A TEST OF DRY FITTING PARTS: THIS IS ONLY A TEST:

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HAVING THIS BEEN A FINAL ASSEMBLY, PARTS WOULD HAVE BEEN PROPERLY ALIGNED, PERMANENTLY ATTACHED AND THE BRASS PARTS PAINTED ALUMINUM. THIS CONCLUDES THE DRY FIT TEST.

We can now return to our regularly scheduled program, already in progress:

Thanks,

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Hello again,

Continuing with my philosophy of treating every sub-assembly as a model itself, the rear suspension is done. In fact all the suspension for that matter. I'm particularly proud of the rear sway bar (brass) and it's links.

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Still pending wheels/tires, body work, headers, decals etc.

Thanks,

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You really make me laught Raul! Sometimes I also forget to take in progress pictures :P

Now Ismael,

I thought that you were one of the greattest modelers I know, but now I have to say that you are one of a few ones I know that comes apart from the rest. You make some great scratch build parts,plastic or brass, alumium, anything. I hope sometime we can met personally and you can teach me some of your tricks and tips.

Super job on that one, a hall of fame build. Nice work so far.

EDB

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Great build Ismael! My favorite driver is Dan Gurney. My favorite race car is the '68 Eagle. My favorite kit is the MPC '68 Eagle. It was an excellent kit when it was introduced and I built several. The re-issues show some tool age, but there are still very few kits as well done. MY 1st issue kits had pretty good tires, but the later ones got pretty wobbly. I believe Bill Jorgensen did a replacement tire in resin which looks just like the kit tire, but round and true. Note that the pointed ends of the rear radius rods where they meet the monocoque tub are really part of the tub. The pointy shape is the bracket which is riveted to the tub and should be painted to match the tub. The heim rod end fits inside this bracket/fairing with a bolt passing through vertically. The bolt ends and nut are exposed and should be zinc plate silver. Yes, the original color was a Ford color used in the mid-60s. My uncle had a '65 Galaxy in that same color.

The decals include #48 and # 42. 48 was Dan Gurney's car with the Ford Windsor stock block, which finished 2nd behind the #3 Rislone Turbo Offy Eagle of Dan Gurney's buddy Bobby Unser modeled in the other version of this kit. 3rd in the race was Dan's Olsonite Eagle team mate, Denny Hulme in the #42 with the Ford Twin Cam. Dan Gurney's AAR Eagles finished 1-2-3 in the 500 that year. This is the only year that any model company other than 1/43 resin made models of the top 3 in the 500, and they also did the Lotus Turbine which was the expected winning car. The Eagles also dominated in SCCA road racing with John Cannon winning the Continental Championship in his 68 Eagle. Eagles dominated the Indy field for the next 10 years!

Richard

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Richard,

Thanks for the info! I'll check on the brackets. It has been a bit frustrating that not much reference is available online. At least not as much as I'm used to on my projects. I tried to get Dan Gurney's Eagles book but that's almost $100. So I 've been forced to take a few "liberties" here and there. I haven't worked on the tires yet, but at first glance they seem OK. I haven't used any aftermarket part. Everything was either on the kit or scratchbuilt.

You can probably help me with some information: Do you have any reference pics of the front mounted radiator? I'm puzzled as to how to plumb it. I'm also looking for information on the seatbelt harness. Was it 4 a points harness? what color?

I would love to do the Rislone car, but that kit is commanding top money on eBay. I've seen it go for over $150. And speaking of Jorgensen, I'm waiting on a resin kit I ordered from him.

I love Indy, but for some reason this is only my first attempt at an Indy racer. But that should change soon ;)

Thanks!

Edited by ismaelg
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I logged on here to check a few minutes ago. As it opened up, my phone rang. A close friend was on the line who is into radio control planes (he currently is flying an f-18 turbune) and works in engineering for a military aero-space firm. HE asked me to guess where he was at..with no knowledge of my posts last night...He is at AAR!!! He was calling from a room where several race cars are on display including a later Olsonite Indy Eagle driven by Jerry Grant, and an IMSA GTP Eagle-Toyota driven by PJ Jones! AAR does production of composite parts for the aircraft my friend works on and he visits there on accasion. He says maybe sometime he could get me a tour...I had to ask that he remind me to take along a bib to catch any drool...LOL

Now to your questions Ismael...

Thanks for the info! I'll check on the brackets.

Do you have any reference pics of the front mounted radiator? I'm puzzled as to how to plumb it.

No...I don't have any detail photos. unfortunately. But the plumbing is very simple. There are 2 large radiator lines connecting via rubber hoses to metal tubes built into the tub, which connect the radiator to the engine. IIRC, they are low in the fuel cell area of the tub, rather than through the cockpit. and 1 is on the left, 1 on the right, connecting to the tanks at the left and right of the aluminum radiator. (Lolas and other english-built formula cars of this era were using brass radiators) The water pump is cogged-belt driven and plumbed from where the pipes exit the bulkhead behind the driver.

I'm also looking for information on the seatbelt harness. Was it 4 a points harness? what color?

Harness should be 6-point, which was fairly new to race cars, and black and quick-release type buckle. 6-point is a 4-point harness with loops that wrap around the driver's thighs. Also called an "anti-submarine" harness, in reference to it's design to prevent slipping out under the lap belt. Any color other than black was rare in racing harnesses then, although in amateur racing, a lot of racers used surplus military aircraft harnesses which were sometimes tan or olive green. At this time (1968) most F-1 cars did not use belts, unless the driver personally preferred using them.

I would love to do the Rislone car, but that kit is commanding top money on eBay. I've seen it go for over $150. And speaking of Jorgensen, I'm waiting on a resin kit I ordered from him.

Jorgensen used to offer a resin kit to convert an Eagle-Ford to the Rislone Eagle-Offy, including decals, IIRC.

For other readers, his ebay seller id is: toonces2jayentp. I believe he no longer sells other than on ebay.

Thanks!

You're welcome!

Richard

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