Rob Hall Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Has this kit been released yet? My LHS doesn't have it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave in Seattle Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Did not see the scale mentioned in your otherwise informative review. With its die-cast heritage, is it 1/24 or 1/25? Or sumpin else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 Did not see the scale mentioned in your otherwise informative review. With its die-cast heritage, is it 1/24 or 1/25? Or sumpin else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyle Willits Posted December 6, 2007 Share Posted December 6, 2007 I got one today at my LHS and just finished giving it good grokking. There are quite a few places where the kit's diecast origins are very evident ... the front and rear suspensions, for example. Overall, though, the kit looks very good and I'm happy that Revell decided to do a plastic version of it. Kind of interesting that Revell is marketing the kit as a lowrider. The wheels are the same style found in the "Motor City Muscle" '69 Camaros and are decidedly pro touring, rather than lowrider style. Also, while the model can be built with the front end at stock or lowered height, there are no such provisions for the rear. Incidentally, as with many other newer Revell kits, the wheels mount with metal pins, meaning this would be another good place to use those chrome reversed wheels from the '49 Merc! In fact, I would think those would be perfect for an AG car! For the optimal appearance, The separate chrome trim pieces should probably be stripped, mounted to the body prior to painting then covered with Bare-Metal Foil. That way, the trim will all have the same level of shine when the model is completed. I probably won't do that, though, because I just don't think I'm up to foiling that much trim! Whether this kit represents an improvement over the old AMT '58 Chevy kit is, I suppose, a matter of perspective. One thing's for sure, though ... this one should be a LOT easier to build! They are probably the same wheels that were in the diecast version. Of course, I can never leave anything alone and had to build the diecast my way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollinoldskoo Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 Something else I noticed about this kit upon further inspection ... in the box are lowrider batteries for the trunk and two different lowrider plaques for the interior, neither of which are mentioned in the instructions! I thought that was a bit odd for a kit that is being marketed as a lowrider! I am REALLY looking forward to getting started on this one! I've always wanted to build a '58, but was always a little intimidated by AMT's. I'll take them if any of you don't want them for that matter, i'll take any of the lowrider prts most of you won't use...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted December 17, 2007 Author Share Posted December 17, 2007 I just picked up this kit Saturday, and I'm very impressed! You've all seen the '58 I've done, this kit bests AMT's in a lot of ways------namely you don't have to screw around with the fiddly doors, and the chassis engraving is very well done. The separate chrome is curious, in that I'd much rather BMF the body-------but I'm kind of a masochist with things like that! I'll probably strip the chrome, mount it on the body making sure everything lines up and then BMF the chrome after polish. The body lines are exactly right, and even the A pillars are well done being the correct thickness, shape, and angle for a '58. The spinners for the hubcaps are nicely done, and reference material for this car is all over the 'net. I'd like to build mine as a Fuelie........very rare in '58, maybe in Sierra or Anniversary Gold. Of course everything else will be stock as stone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 The separate chrome is curious, in that I'd much rather BMF the body Huh??? Man, I wish every kit had separate chrome trim, like the Lindberg Cutlass. It makes for a much sharper look, and takes away the pain of fooling with BMF. Foiling a finished painted body always requires way too much handling of the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted December 17, 2007 Author Share Posted December 17, 2007 Harry, what I meant by the separate chrome is that in some instances, the chrome doesn't quite fit right in its recesses (or the recesses too big), and seems to me somewhat heavy handed. Better for me (some'll disagree of course) if the chrome is stripped, put on the body, primered and painted/polished with everything else, and then BMF'd. It lends to me a more in scale (and consistent) appearance as chrome fender/window trim on 1:1's are more of a polished stainless or aluminum finish, and not mirror chrome like the bumpers. I'm looking at the kit as I type this, and it has some sprue tabs that'll have to be filed and smoothed down anyway, so might as well go for the whole nine yards. True, I can empathize with those builders who have shaky hands and or no patience.....................but for me this works best. Just a matter of taste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 (edited) Trim detail can be "off" whether it's a separate piece or molded together with the body. It all depends on whether the kitmaker did it right. I'd prefer chrome trim as separate pieces (assuming of course, that it's accurately scaled and that it fits!). The chances of messing up a finished body go up the more that body is handled...and foiling a body can't be done without a lot of handling of the finished paint. And then there's always the chance of the blade slipping... I built the old AMT kit of the 58 Impala, and foiling it took almost as long as building the dang thing! But to each his own. Happy stripping, filing, gluing and foiling, Mr. O! Edited December 17, 2007 by harrypri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 i dont really recall this car and its separate chrome from any earlier incarnation from my youth, but in my experience separate chrome strips for the sides never really worked out too well. unless there were very positive mounting pins and hidden glue-points, i would always mess up the mounting of strips like that. >The chances of messing up a finished body go up the more that body is handled ah but for me the chances of messing up a finished body go WAY more up when you have to get glue near it. the times ive tried applying separate side trim after finishing the body, it invariably ends up with glue (typically super glue) somehow either oozing out under the trim, or slight adjustments making marks on the finish, and often have led to tragedy as the trajectory of a thrown body is researched on its way from my hand to the dustbin. ahem. so, much as i dislike bmf, i think i would prefer my shaky hand on a knife blade than waving around a super-glue laden long thin piece of plastic! maybe its just me though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelmartin Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 ah but for me the chances of messing up a finished body go WAY more up when you have to get glue near it. the times ive tried applying separate side trim after finishing the body, it invariably ends up with glue (typically super glue) somehow either oozing out under the trim, or slight adjustments making marks on the finish, and often have led to tragedy as the trajectory of a thrown body is researched on its way from my hand to the dustbin. ahem. so, much as i dislike bmf, i think i would prefer my shaky hand on a knife blade than waving around a super-glue laden long thin piece of plastic! maybe its just me though... YIKES! You superglue trim pieces to a painted body? Dude! Use white glue or clear acrylic for small items. I tend to go Bill Geary's direction with chrome trim. They can't plate everything so you usualy end up with a mix of plated and foiled trim anyway. I think it looks better if all the trim is foiled and the bigger parts are plated because foil or Alclad looks good on small pieces but falls down a bit on larger surfaces. Anyway I will have to get one of these kits since I love 58-61 Chevs. It's funny because I am actually building an AMT right now! I guess I will have to do a Comparo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelmartin Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 ah but for me the chances of messing up a finished body go WAY more up when you have to get glue near it. the times ive tried applying separate side trim after finishing the body, it invariably ends up with glue (typically super glue) somehow either oozing out under the trim, or slight adjustments making marks on the finish, and often have led to tragedy as the trajectory of a thrown body is researched on its way from my hand to the dustbin. ahem. so, much as i dislike bmf, i think i would prefer my shaky hand on a knife blade than waving around a super-glue laden long thin piece of plastic! maybe its just me though... YIKES! You superglue trim pieces to a painted body? Dude! Use white glue or clear acrylic for small items. I tend to go Bill Geary's direction with chrome trim. They can't plate everything so you usualy end up with a mix of plated and foiled trim anyway. I think it looks better if all the trim is foiled and the bigger parts are plated because foil or Alclad looks good on small pieces but falls down a bit on larger surfaces. Anyway I will have to get one of these kits since I love 58-61 Chevs. It's funny because I am actually building an AMT right now! I guess I will have to do a Comparo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Kourouklis Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 Don't forget one other thing, y'all - The mounting pins on these trim bits are long, because they were originally designed to be heat-swaged from inside the diecast body shell. This opens up two possibilities: you can either mushroom the pins yourself from inside (that is, if you have a bit less trouble with heated screwdrivers near your painted body than you do with glue or shaky blades), or you can trim the pins a bit and apply the glue from inside. All told, this set of trim promises to be a bit easier to deal with than what you see in some other kits **COUGH-TRUMPETER-COUGHCOUGH**. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 >YIKES! You superglue trim pieces to a painted body? well, no, actually, i dont build kits with big old chrome strips to glue to the body! i didnt mean little trim pieces, i typically use future to hold those, i meant like big chrome side trim pieces. >**COUGH-TRUMPETER-COUGHCOUGH** exactly. but if they do have a positive contact system for mounting even long trim, then no problemo. i just tense up anytime i have to get any kind of glue near a finished body... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranchwagon Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Another point is that in many cases side trim is often stainless steel and I think BMF gives a much more accurate "look" than the chrome plated parts. I'm not sure about the '58 Chevy, but the side trim on the '55 was stainless and the chromed parts just don't look quite right in the Revell kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 I finally picked up a copy of this kit today....now I understand why everyone is so positive on the kit. My instruction booklet had a major error in printing - entire sections were missing and others were printed twice. Has anyone else run into this? I'll call the 1-800 number on Monday so I'll be OK, but hope this is a one-off error! TIM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OLDERGUY Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 The wheels in this kit, and the up graded 37Ford coupe, the 56 Chevy, in my opinion are just way to large. Haven't the people at Revell been to any car shows or rod runs lately? Some of the st. rod guys are putting on 16's & 17's and other larger size wheels, but the ones in theses kits are just crazy large and most with out any reverse to them. Just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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