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Everything posted by DoctorLarry

  1. Rallye Green? or is it a Caddy color? They had a similar color called Nottingham Green. My best fiend had a 66 Chevelle painted that color.
  2. I think around 82. It is an 81 LeMans body style.
  3. Mark, you are probably right. This is early 80's.
  4. I'm sure the webbing was safer than using volleyball netting!
  5. I don't know. I was just following pictures of the real cars on my builds.
  6. You can buy 1 and 2 mm masking tape that might work.
  7. I have done it two ways: using pieces from a large gauze pad if you want more of the "rope" look. I edge it with 1/8" white ribbon, which you can probably find at a craft store or on the internet. My last car I used common window screen painted white edged with the same ribbon. It looks good but not as "ropey". Grand Am is gauze, Cutlass is window screen. The screen is much easier to work with.
  8. Oil pan in car, web site: https://canepa.com/photo-gallery/1975-ford-torino2244/
  9. Here are shots from a 68 bot not Boss 9. Appears to be wet sump as well.
  10. Paul, I saw the Can Am kit on EBAY. Body sort of looks like mine although there was another person doing a body before me. Inside of the body looks awful and the interior and chassis are castings directly from a Jo-Han 1975 Cutlass, not accurate at all for the Can Am. Thanks for the heads up.
  11. Looks like you are a very quick learner. Very clean and represents the JDM look well!
  12. There is aluminum there that was usually covered up by decals.
  13. Generally I would use a light primer under lighter colors. Light gray for example. Under darker colors dark gray or red oxide. So for yellow I would personally use a light gray primer. It would cover much better than red oxide. Just my take.
  14. I don't know how you find the time to keep them moving. Mine go in fits and starts. This was another beautiful outcome. Did you do body mods on this one or use the stock body?
  15. T Bird chassis? I have one sitting along with a Monte Carlo. I'm trying to finish the Buicks first.
  16. I'm like Gerald- "box stock" has little meaning so I am as slow as anyone. I think Tim has an assembly line in his house somewhere. He must have a replica of Junior Johnson's shop in miniature.
  17. The clear did cause some crazing of the foil decals on my Olds. The clear film decals did fine. Thanks for the tip about putting clear film over them. I ordered a new decal set and will replace the foil 28 numbers on the side but now I know better.
  18. You can build it out of the box but the body lacks some lines in it, the chassis is the old MPC NASCAR chassis with torsion bars and leaf springs, although the new kits have upgraded suspension. The seat is also out of the old MPC kit and it was wrong. So I modified the body to get it right, re-engineered the chassis is to make it accurate, added a correct seat and modified the cage (it was lacking some bars). So, do you need to do all that to make a nice model? No. Scale Auto Magazine had an article on a box stock build and it was exceptionally well done. Very neat when done. I just wanted to see what it would take to make it better reflect the real car. Not necessary, but that's just me.
  19. I think it is time to call this one done. Body does not fit that well, chassis has a little warp to it, decals got funky but overall it was fun to do. I used the "updated" grilles and bumpers. I had to widen the back one because I modified the body and it took two hours of filing to get the grilles to fit. Next time I will dry fit everything like most of you all do before painting. Oh well, live and learn.
  20. My father bought one of the first 3 A100 vans in the state of California in 1964
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