DoctorLarry

How do you print those dash decals? The detail is amazing!

Robert Burns has had them listed on and off his page for awhile but I don't think he has printed them yet. Perry's Resin had a nice kit of the 68 but long gone. They occasionally show up on EBAY but I have missed 3 or 4 of them.

Anybody printing a 68 Skylark GS? I see 69's out there (I bought one) but how about a 68? Thanks!

Making some progress on this one. I painted the frame and put the finned rear cover on and the red aftermarket shocks. I used the Riviera engine. I had to fill in the axle hole and then the oil pan was wrong so I found one in the parts box. I had to make brackets and belts for alternator and power steering. Red thread for the alternator wiring. Resin cast of the Edelbrock B4B intake and Fireball Holley carb with fly eye air cleaner. I mounted the CD ignition amplifier and wired it. I have not mounted the Mallory coil yet. Master cylinder wired and brake lines attached. I made up all the interior parts and cast them in resin and painted them with Tamiya paint, which is close. First time using embossing powder for carpet. Kind of messy. I sanded the swirls out of the body and have hit with a couple of coats of Dupli Color filler primer. I still need to fix the hood and do more body work. I put the fold strips on for the vinyl top. I used Molotow on the wheels which are Jay's Resin 17 inch copies of the Hurst wheels. I made up some headers. One side does not fit so some surgery required. I still have to detail the chassis and begin more fitting. Lots of mods to the Chevelle firewall and I had to cut the cowl area from the Chevelle body and graft it to the firewall to fit. I also had to extend the front wheel wells out to hide them in the Buick fender wells.

This is a cool build. I'm doing a 69 Skylark which was a 3D print I bought on EBAY. I needed a custom interior (and console) so I did the same thing: made my own!

Very nice, clean build. How did you do the hose clamps on the radiator hose?

I always loved the look of these models of Mustangs. I remember when they came out there were mixed feelings about the design, which I think is still true. The color combo looks very nice and the detail work sets it off. Great build.

The T Bird chassis is more period correct for these cars but it generally needs to be shortened to get the proper wheelbase. The cage needs to be modified as well but it makes for a more realistic chassis.

Can you send me pictures of what you are referring to?

I am envious of folks on the board. You all manage to do very fine work on multiple projects throughout the year. I have a hard time finishing them even though I generally work on one thing at a time. This past year I finally finished a long term project I had been plugging away on, my 75 Buick Pace Car. I work a lot on cars that are not produced in styrene so that requires creating masters for bodies and interiors and casting them in resin. If you have ever done that, you know how time consuming it is. Once done, it then takes a lot of time to fit and finish resin parts. This was one of my own replicas so I literally built it from scratch As Tom E said in another post, 3D printing pretty much makes that a thing of the past but I still am producing interiors for 3D bodies which lack them, when I get some free time. My latest is a 69 Skylark DeLuxe interior. Anyway, here is my 2024 one and done:

No problems with the Krylon. Only the Testor's.

Single model. I checked three others and the paint was fine. Maybe it was the Testor's formula? Two others were painted with Dupli Color auto touch up and the third was Krylon white lacquer.

Other cars were painted in a similar fashion and the paint cured fine. The paint o this one was not soft before. I took the cars to a show and handled them with no issues. It seems to have taken place over time, which to me is exactly the opposite of what should take place, especially with an evaporative paint like lacquer which tends to get more brittle over time.

I should also add that the resin body was one of my own castings, so I know where it came from.

I had to do a small repair on a 73 GTO resin car I built awhile back. The body was painted with Tamiya fine primer and Testor's lacquer followed by a lacquer clear coat (maybe Testor's, maybe Krylon). I never had any issues with the paint. It's been on there probably over a year, maybe longer. I picked it up without gloves on and it left fingerprints in the paint. The paint was lacquer, which dries really fast by evaporation of the solvents and it has certainly been on there long enough to cure. Anybody else ever had this happen? The paint felt soft as soon as I picked it up.

Which kit? 77 LeMans or 75 Pace Car?

Still, to finish THAT many at THAT level is a superhuman feat, in my opinion.

A great stable, especially the under appreciated Buicks and Pontiacs. But how do you do it?

Are the modified engines up on the web site yet?

Great idea. I use ribbon but that looks more realistic.

Great build. What did you use for the seatbelt material?

Are those rivets sold in the US? What a great added detail to a fantastic build.

Looking good, Gerald!

I understand. I was just thinking through what you said about the models being not correct in scale. Your engines are super detailed so they will look great in my build.

Seems reasonable. I would think that there would not be a huge difference but based on what you are saying there might be due to model tooling being off from true scale.