Dave G.

If you want to decant something Get Rustoleum 2x , thin it an extra 10% or a bit more with lacquer thinner. Use the Yost method with that, it's sprays like any other enamel, comes out great and you get 12oz for about 5-6 bucks right at your hardware store. Airbrushes great, done it many times. For Lacquer I'd go with Tamiya Lp lacquers in the little bottles thinned with Mr Leveling thinner. I shot this in black and it came out awesome. Look for a Barbados Rex video on you tube for using that product. He did about a 40 minute video on it if I remember right.

The original MPC 28 Lincoln kit that I built back in the mid 1970's is my only recall, I don't recall it being finicky, I can't speak of newer iterations though. I also don't recall working steering on that version. But that's a long time ago and it's not to say it didn't have it and I bypassed it. I built that right after building the Monogram Classic Duesenberg Dual Cowl, to which I had previously built several of the Monogram Classic kits and as mentioned more than once now in the thread here, are straight forward builds.. Both turned out very nice at any rate. I still have them stashed in a box wrapped in paper towels and last I looked at them they could use a bit of reconstruction at this point. I don't recall that iteration MPC 28 Lincoln having any quirks about it. And I have not built later ones nor the newly released Gangbusters 32 Chrysler. I seem to recall though the Monograms are a bit stronger building/handling, the plastic felt more stout from the MPC plastic but I'm really digging into these old memory banks on that lol. I remember my at the time and now past on relatively new wife being quite taken by both model results ( she loved those old classic cars as much as I do).

Yep, so I flipped the name Connoisseur, That was under AMT and MPC. The Monogram classic cars are listed just Classic. One of these days I'll land a good buy on the Monogram Classic 1930 Packard 4 door Speedster phaeton. Right now the 32 Chrysler in MPC is listed Gangbusters.

Yes and yes to Monogram in 1/24. The Classic series and later releases were Connoisseur Classic. I've enjoyed those many moons ago and wouldn't mind them again. In 1/25 you have MPC in the late 20's-30's era classic cars, most notably Lincoln being among those in a couple of iterations. Those in the latest release are the Gangbusters series, I believe there is a new release on a Caddy or maybe it is the 28 Lincoln ( oops just looked it up , 32 Chrysler is freshly released and in well stocked stores for sure and I believe the 28 Lincoln is still around). Both companies though are pretty straight forward building they build nice with no real tricks to over come but not much for working items. Your own detailing helps, attention to accurate paint etc. I can speak on Entex and Minicraft in 1/16. There are some nice old stock kits still out there, of those two there are a lot of parts in both brands but Minicraft likes to throw in a hurdle or two to jump in my experience anyway. You're looking at 200+ parts in some of the Entex kits though. Italeri I have not worked with, I'd listen to those who have. I've done some Minicraft Model A's and the door hinges are both a royal PITB to work with and inaccurate and they are right there out in the open on the doors. The instructions are vague as in use your imagination quite a bit, hope you're good with inaccurate pictures. They's a bit of a puzzle kind of thing to build but the engine and drive line look good, in scale etc..

2-1 which way Zip ? Awesome blue !

I do stuff like that too often lol ! And meanwhile Napa could probably mixed up a touch up bottle for about $10. I just cut the Napa paints with cheap lacquer thinner.

Edit: Good info ! Moot point now that he's going yellow I suppose but just wanted to add. Going by the charts for the 59 Cadillac, white was offered in Dover White or Olympic White, the only two whites listed. Also the same Dover was listed for Chrysler that year. Here is the link: http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?model=Cadillac&year=1959&con=yo . No contention here just added info for anyone interested.. I know Pete put up a chart as well.

True and I dehydrate all my paints these days. Not everyone has one though.

The last time I was at Michael's they had it but that was back around Dec 2021. I don't use it though, so can't answer the OP question about dry times. I know back about 15 years ago when I did use Krylon it dried pretty quickly ( certainly touch dry sometime the same day and workable overnight). I've heard the formula has changed since those days. No idea in what way.

I'm holding off refinishing a Monogram Duesenberg I built over 40 years ago. Repainting the body because I ran out of the blue for the body and used a different batch of paint on the hood. It never was an exact match though close. But over the years it's even further off now. I'm doing a whole tear down when I get to it since some parts could use re gluing as well. I'm going to refinish the whole body including hood and I may do the fenders over as well ( the fenders are not blue but the paint is in great shape). So I guess my point is rather than try and match the nose maybe paint the entire model since in time things can shift. In my case I can probably just scuff and refinish, it's all enamel with no clear coat. Other than color match the paint is in great shape. I'll just do enamel again. If it were clear coated I'd strip the paint though. And that may just be your best bet as well.

No I doubt it, they're both automotive grade to my knowledge.

I can see the hotter automotive lacquers maybe upsetting the milder primers like Tamiya. But not so much the enamel. As to Duplicolor that's made to be under hot automotive lacquer anyway. I suspect Mr Color to be a bit hotter than Tamiya as well.

I suspect that the Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss is either the replacement or similar item. And I have not tried it since really I don't even use the Floor Care which is basically Future. I have the Floor Care, use it in test shoots for model paint schemes and things non model building where I want to see the effect of a clear finish quickly..

I have the 57 under way but it on hold at this point. Thus far picking color lol. The under body is all painted. And the grill and hub cap wash is done on mine. When I first got this kit I posted pictures of the body because I got a bunch of messages how the windshield frames had come through broken in earlier versions of this kit. As you know with this kit there is a piece of sprue supporting the frame now. As yet I have not cut that away. Looks like a straight forward easy typical AMT build to me. I anticipate no Issues with door hinges. It should be good experience for you if you've never done hinges before.. Course I say that just coming off MiniCrafts Model A 1/16 scale door hinges which are a basic nightmare. This is going to be so easy ! Much like the 57 Fairlane I imagine only bigger parts to get your mitts on to. I haven't looked at the mold lines much as yet. I don't anticipate a big struggle though. I tend to scrape away the roughest stuff scraping with a hobby knife, then go to those foam fingernail blocks. Then down to micro mesh pads. Prime and see what I've got. This is a bigger body so being level will mater all the more, you don't want it all wavy so I'd avoid just cut sandpaper and bare fingers unless its supported with a block ( I do that as well). Those pads are I think are around 220, 360 and 400 grits. Identified by color and you can get them at any nail salon supply shop. I use them all. If I see sand scratches then I use micro mesh to about 1000 or 1500 then prime. But as Ace said primer should cover the 400 ok, 400 is as far as I went in 1/1 before primer. I just hate sand scratch swelling lol. And believe me I've seen it happen usually with lacquer top coats ( hot lacquer not model lacquers).

I just use Testors clear parts glue, comes in a black bottle. I use it because it is made to glue clear parts, pretty simple theory and doesn't tax the 72 yo brain cells.