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Dave G.

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About Dave G.

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    Sandwich Ma
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    David Grabowski

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  1. What you describe above is why I said on something with large chrome areas like a 50's era car I'd probably try spraying the Molotow. In the videos I've seen where people sprayed it it looked really good. Course then you gotta get it out of the pen or buy the refill .
  2. Well the clip would work for a relatively modern hot rod or street rod conversion. Back in the day it might more likely been fit in the original rails. So just depends on the rendition you are after. For me, you got my juices churning for a dropped axle and Oldmobile engine. The Olds I have from my latest AMT 39/40 Ford sedan build ( I built it stock with the flathead Ford) which has headers that I'm fairly sure with a little heat could be warped around to fit one way or another. Just a thought.
  3. I've seen light primers carry the shade casts of color variation on styrene and imagine the same is true with resin. The effect can come through as almost a glow from the back side of the parts, the parts aren't truly 100% opaque. So my work around is to prime inside and out with dark primer like charcoal grey or black. Then reprime the front where I want white paint or other light color for that matter, in white or platinum primer before putting down the base coat. Especially important to get back to white with white pearl base coats that are not opaque either. You have to get a barrier coat down to block what I call the lamp shade effect. Just my take on it without knowing more information. But you might try what I'm suggesting. And what ever you do, do it to everything.
  4. Actually if you haven't bought the kit yet you might want to consider the AMT 53 ford pickup. That comes with optional v8 engine , wheels, grill etc. You wouldn't need to think about adapting motor mounts, cutting down or lengthening the drive shaft and things like that. I believe the 50 Chevy only has the inline 6 engine, so any V8 you get to put in will need some adapting.
  5. Yes a test is the way to go and come to your own conclusion !!
  6. Well without the clear Alclad can be rather fragile. I don't know that it's any less fragile than Molotow but Molotow is easy to touch up. And a good touch up for the kit chrome, I wouldn't say the same for alclad but anyone is free to correct me.
  7. I think if I was going to do the chrome laden nose of a 50's car I would spray it. They say the Molotow chrome sprayed results are even better than from the pen. But then again I guess if you go to the trouble of getting Molotow into an airbrush then you might at that point consider the Alclad. Just depends which look you prefer, either can do a good job.... I haven't cleared my Molotow chrome so can't comment on that. I know it takes very little sealer on MM Metalizer to just cover it and any more and you might as well forget the metal look. You can wreck the look real easy clear coating, with Molotow I'd rather have to put on another coat than risk it personally. Best I can say.
  8. Yes, mine are laying down and they get a periodic shake when not in use. Once I get past the chrome on a particular build it may be weeks before I do chrome again ( I'm an unbelievably slow build, my speedy build days were a very long time ago), so once a week or so I just shake them up. Hopefully this idea at least helps the cause.
  9. Don't know if this is going to help but while my Molotows are idle I have them rolled up tight in a plastic sandwich bag. My thought is it will at least be an air restricted environment if not air tight.
  10. I've just been leaving them around any old way and shake them up now and then. I just started with Molotow though ( been using Metalizer) and have to say the results were reasonably impressive. In some spots it was silvery till turned to a different light direction and then for some things you may want a chrome trim look, it was almost too chrome. Convenient for now. I'd try spraying it though, I haven't found the perfect chrome yet, sprayed. I'd like to build a 59 Galaxy if I ever find one and that whole lower section of the rear quarter is chrome as I recall. A perfect candidate to be sprayed. I generally used the buffing Metalizers in the past for something like that. So, well it's a dream right now cause I don't have the Galaxy yet but I have 2mm Molotow lol. Most of my painted chrome is windows and side molding etc, common stuff.
  11. No I haven't tried that espo. Why do you think the coupe fenders might be better ? I've built several of each over the years but too, several were cut down into modified circle track cars. I just assumed the two fender sets were the same. My favorite in stock or street and strip car is the sedan by a fair margin over the coupe though. I like both the 39 and 40 versions of each but the 39 has a couple of elements that are incorrect ( the dash is wrong for a 39 but correct for the 40 and 39 wiper blades were mounted at the top of the windshield not along the cowl. And the 39 had a floor shift so the column shift is incorrect in the kit, though they do give you a chrome stick for the floor that needs paint). This last one I built as a 39, copying one I built as a kid in dark green and tan interior. I think if I built a coupe right now it would be the Revell/Monogram 40 standard built bone stock maybe in dark blue, although black might be appealing... By the way, the 40 hood fits the sedan body cowl better than the 39 hood does too. But it's incorrect out front in both profile for a 39 and to fit the 39 grill.
  12. If I'm correct and this kit is the same as my 39/40 kit was then your next fit problem will be the 39 hood to cowl. Might as well check that now. I never got mine 100% there but it is acceptable for my needs. I did mine as part of a build off with another guy from the forum building the same kit as a 39 and his 39 hood was the same as mine. I'd like to eventually build another one too and refine a couple of points a bit further .
  13. Here is a video or url, whichever loads: https://youtu.be/_d1VEx2pkVA
  14. Then I wonder if the right side is in a pinch somehow and lifting the left side off. If the body is in contact with the running board though, then it's the fenders as the post above this one indicates.
  15. I know you said the interior clears ok but did you try fitting the body to the fenders before the interior tub went in ? It really looks like the whole left side is sitting up off the fender assembly.
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