Dave G.

All I can say is it goes over chrome parts well and over acrylic color coats well.

Nix that, was thinking of a different kit so I edited out what I wrote earlier. Either way there is just one rear axle.

For Folkart I use the same thinner combo I use to cut the paint for spraying from an airbrush just more of it. It has some Iso alcohol and water, some Liquitex retarder and a trace of Dawn dish soap in it ( the thinner that is). The thinner blend is about 70% water and the paint is thinned to where it wants to flow real easy. I use the same thing in Liquitex Soft Body acrylic artist paints too. The artist paints probably stick to chrome better but I actually use either on chrome. As to the dish soap you just need a little on a mixing stick put into 3oz of thinner, it takes very little to improve flow. I say that because I think people over dose it. By no means am I saying you have to do it this way, I'm just reporting how I do it is all. I also use water clean up oils.

MCW can now also match a chip with his spectrometer camera and come up with a formula via computer programing. Give him call or email, he's a friendly guy. He is also mixing enamels now so you can ask about that too.

Hot water is safer than a hair dryer. If you get too close thus too hot with a dryer you can make the plastic brittle. The key though is to get some tension in the plastic beyond center, so if it's warped or twisted to the right put in tension to the left as it heats. When it cools and you release whatever means was holding it while heat it will hopefully come back to at least somewhat neutral. Enough that it won't fight gluing up.

🙂

It's nice to buy with assurance even if it costs a few bucks more ! I hate junk tools.

Looks great Sam ! Heck I'd get the kit just for the Y block Ford.

Sam that rod is Exactly what I meant in my earlier post ! It came out awesome. Congrats !

You also can build a really nice low chrome rod too. Nice filler work, nice paint, Molotow spray with an airbrush relevant chrome or polished aluminum as the case may be for just a few items. A deliberately low chrome rod but nice, never was a fan of a bunch of chome anyway, except the 50's factory cars.. To that theory comes opposing kickers. Kicker #1. I'd still prefer the Monogram. Kicker #2. The Lindberg sells cheaper.

Just fwiw, I've never built a Monogram model with seriously bad fitting parts. I built the Monogram original release of the Big T back in 1963, I was 13yo and I don't recall any issues getting it together, nor the Big Deuce a couple of years later. But given a choice of just one to build today and as much as I like the stance on the Big T, I'd save the extra money up for the Deuce personally, just would love to see a Firedome hemi available to put in it. Lindberg to me is not in the same class, ever. But that could just be my impression. I've never built the Lindberg T but I prefer the Monogram anyway. Then lately there is the issue we've seen here of gray chrome parts trees in the Lindberg, that is to say they didn't get plated.

Did you get the H working ?

Micro Mark sells the carousel stand of high speed steel ( should be better than carbon steel) bits with clear dome cover for $30 . They also sell the tubes of 6 replacement bits in each size for $7 or so. I was at their site yesterday looking for no.76 bits and they had them. I trust them to sell decent quality tools and they claim these are sharp precision bits made from HSS. That's important because there are many cheap knock offs that aren't precision nor sharp and made from plain carbon steel.

It only took me several decades to figure out because 1/1 is painted on it's wheels a plastic model doesn't have to sit there on a tray or cardboard or whatever. It doesn't weigh 3-4k but can be picked up and shot at any angle. Plus the air pressure doesn't kick BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH up into the paint. We really are creatures of habit.

It's a rough 1/32 scale. 16ft3" divided by 32 is 6-3/32" so pretty close.