Dave G.

🤢 True.

Ya I like the stance of this T, I like everything about it except the $2800 crank price lol !!! I

I felt right at home looking at it, as I said ticked all my boxes at least in a T. I watched another vid of a T with 400hp and it had plenty of snap to get me in trouble lol. But hp is subjective in terms of desire. The nice thing about this T is he seems to have gotten that power to hook up with the pavement. T's only weigh in the teens, the one I posted is 1700lb. To my eye it's just proportioned great, nice car.

Modern day t bucket. This ticks the boxes for me except maybe a bit much engine in terms of hp:

Ok.

It works in most acrylics, just mix some up and let it sit covered for 4-5 minutes, if it's a paint that will react it will get stringy, turn to glue or else separated never to go back together. DecoArt for instance is the only craft paint so far that reacted once and I use several brands of craft paint. Thus far no acrylic model paint has been an issue in these ratios of alcohol. Tamiya gloss will work but you will get better gloss from lacquer thinner with that paint. The flats are ok. Model Master acrylic shoots exceptionally nice with it, you're gonna like it just be sure to prime first. You should always prime first with acrylics, they bite primer great and plastic terrible lol ( no, I mean literally terrible) !! Just trust that the blend works better than water ( I've spent two years playing with different means of thinning acrylics conducting spray tests, drying, scratch tests, water alone is rarely the answer), it sprays more like solvent paint with the alcohol in there is best I can tell you. The basic formula came from Bobby Waldron at Genesis Models fwiw. I'm in agreement with his comment that this is pretty universal thinner.

Well we're making a thinner blend for airbrushing acrylics. I can't speak for the others but mine needs 30-32% actual or true alcohol content. So the distilled water gets adjusted accordingly to that, the real alcohol content in the blend is around 30-32% in my case. You need to understand that all the numbers you mentioned, the other part of that to make up 100% in your bottle is already water. That's all that is in there. So Then, to every 3 oz of thinner I make up I add x amount of Liquitex retarder according to season. And of course there is fudge room to mess with. For the acrylics I use I find this nearly perfect. A few guys copied it and love it. One tried to cheat the retarder, then cheat the brand of retarder and it totally flopped for him. Once he got it all straight in his head he was golden.

Ace beat me to the answer. Actually I use 91% in my home brew thinner for acrylics. Since covid I've only been able to get 70% locally so I adjusted the water in the home brew to 20% less which is more than close enough. Still use the same amount of Liquitex retarder to control tip dry and aid flow out. . I've saved my 91 for cleaning but find that 70 cleans just about as well.

Forget ? I didn't know lol !!! That doesn't sound promising at all. No wonder I never got a return email from them about the 56 Buick. They probably figured I was nuts, might be right too.

I like the Oldsmobiles too in those years. Since I was a kid for whatever reason the 56 Buick just was something I'd like to have modeled and Mobius would do it up right, I'd take a 55 or 57 if that's all there was... I built the 58 that was around back in the day ( 1960 or so I imagine), I think a couple of them actually, the first being the first car I tried to paint and not so successfully lol. Never cared for the 58 I' might add.

Might sound stupid to most but they did a great job on the 56 Chrysler, I want to see a 56 Buick come out.

Store the high pigment colors and primer upside down. This way solidswhen turned back upright are to the top of the can and aren't the first thing into the tube when shaken up and giving that first shot of paint. And heat your cans up in hot water to where when shaken the temp equalizes warm to the touch. It might take a few warmings and shakings. You just want the can warm not hot but this will help in mixing the paint and atomization too. Course the thread is about decanting but you have those answers already.

Rustoleum clear gloss lacquer decanted: I used hardware store lacquer thinner but it needed retarder,way too fast drying and went dull.Course it buffed up anyway but a bunch of added work that is not required when shooting from the can.... Now I do use Minwax clear lacquer in quarts for my wood working and that thins and sprays fine with the same thinner even in an airbrush.. Not sure how it would fare in the long haul on yellowing, it's fine up front though. Just sayin.

Just the clear lacquer gloss. It sprays better out of the can.