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Everything posted by Dpate

  1. Parts by park sells few dog dish hubcaps, but nothing specific to a make. There generic versions.
  2. I had some test pieces, but i threw them away sadly. I wont be retesting until i get some new nozzles and hopefully that fixes the issue i have with the can, and if not I'll decant it. But even though the can isn't spraying right it did leave a good texture even though little rough. I'm sure if can sprayed right and not like you're at the john taking a leak lol it would be much better. Should be similar to the picture even though what is in the picture is a vinyl top kit by MCG.
  3. I used rubber bands too hold the metal holders in place in the holes
  4. I'll try n find some nozzles. If the can is bad i doubt the paint is so i'll decant it.
  5. So i been curious about this product for a long time and finally got a can of it (black version not red)few weeks ago. I remember testing it out on some spoons and scrap parts, but the stuff when you spray it comes out runny and like a straight shot almost like shooting a water gun. Don't know how you're suppose to spray this stuff with mist coats if it comes out like that lol, but from my test parts it did turn out okay looked pretty good on the spoons. It wasn't soft though did have a rough texture too it, and looked nothing like anything you'd see on seats, but more on the lines of underneath the chassy or engine bay or bed liner. I did shake the mess out of it too, but no matter how much i shake it - it doesn't spray like regular paint just comes out watery and straight like a water gun, and also makes a darn mess. Is it best to just decant the stuff and air brush it? I do have texture black paint from MCW i haven't tried. But i paid $11 for this can faux fabrix, and wanted to know if its a bad can or I'm just doing something wrong?
  6. Best to do it at the end, because if you mess up on the clear coat than yeah.
  7. Alright thank you guys so much for the help. Hope y'all have a merry christmas.
  8. Dang that looks good man. Would tamiya acrylic flat black watered down work? Or just get some cheap black craft paint like apple barrel or something and thin it down? How much do you thin? Because too much thinning it would lose its properties i would think.
  9. Your best bet is a carney display case. Little pricey but for $130ish you can hold 24 cars in the case with or without dividers and can have it mirror backed. https://shop.carneyplastics.com/NASCAR-Diecast-Model-Car-Display-Case-24-Car-124-Scale-P445.aspx
  10. I know this isn't a car, but i recently picked up this motorcycle chopper "Grim ripper" kit by monogram. The chrome is actually pretty good, but locator points are to be questioned once i take a real good look at it next time I'm able too, but I'll probably be re-chroming everything as i love doing it and gives a more realistic look to a model. But my question is as in the pic the cylinder heads have I'm sure a black wash on the kit chrome, but would a wash even be compatible with alclad and spaz stix? Only wash i have is tamiya panel line black. I probably should just do some testing, but figured I'd ask just incase someone has already done the dirty work lol. If tamiya wouldn't work? What would? Would i have to make a acrylic wash?
  11. Mr.Setter is used first and after it's dried you use Mr. softer. Softer is really good for getting the decal around curves etc like your hood decal, but you really need to get the air out. Use mr setter and than with a cotton swap or whatever you use gently roll over the problem areas getting any moister trapped underneath out. Don't do too much just take your time and apply more setter as needed. Apply, (wait about a min or so) gently roll, dry, and repeat. The micro mark stuff is good, but when you got older thick decals you have to get the big boys out. Mr. hobby setter and Softer can destroy decals too, but mainly the more touchy decals that are new and fresh not so thick. Solvaset is probably just as strong if not stronger than the Mr.hobby. Honestly if you wouldn't of said they were decals i would of thought they were really bad stickers lol. No offense, but those happen to be the worse decals I've ever seen lol. Guessing because of the 90's you said? Also I' am not EXPERT at all just making suggestion trying to help a fellow member out
  12. Looks good. Def has that: " I haven't had an inspection in about 8 years" look too it.
  13. Walther's solvaset and Mr hobby solutions are much stronger than micro marks solutions. Either get better solutions for these tough decals or use a pin needle and BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH around and use micro sol until you get it.
  14. Never used either, but i would go with the 1K clear because UV protection that the engine clear doesnt have.
  15. Yeah tamiya tape cut and thinned however you need and the holy grail of liquid mask helps a ton.
  16. First two are nice. It's not important to have 100% adjustable temp just long as you can get around 100-110F you're good. Those cheap ones will work fine just use a temp checker to make sure temps are right, and keep an eye on it.
  17. This is the dehydrator i have now https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083DZ24GF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details since my micro mark one died on me just the heating element, but i don't know how too fix it lol. When i bought the one in the link i got it for around $99 so it's went up since than, but it's really nice. You can adjust the temp to what you want, set the timer to what you want, and it'll auto shut off when done too. To answer your other question yeah the cold will slow down the drying time especially since you have no hardener in it. A dehydrator will def help you like 6-8 hours around 110F it should be nice and cure.
  18. The technique I'm talking about applies more so too non trigger brushes. Learning the technique on a trigger brush would like learning the clutch release in a vehicle. But it's not really that important IMO with a trigger style brush, but more so a regular lever brush. On a regular lever brush you press down for air, and pull back for paint. BUT what most people do is let go of the lever and that's where you're doing it wrong. It helps with dry tip, and specs of paint getting in your work, but again most will just shoot paint off to the side to clear anything. This video will explain everything I'm saying lol. At around 2:53 point is what i was just talking about too about getting specs of paint in your work.
  19. I own Iwata eclipse, Iwata revolution, and GSI Creo procon boy PS-290. I use them all on a compressor called "No-Name" you can get from spraygunner. The Iwata eclipse you can even get from hobby lobby, and it's one of the better "all in one" so ta speak brushes you can get quality and cheap wise. Haven't used my Revolution much, and the PS-290 with its fan cap i use for bodies. Feels like painting a actual car using it lol. All these air brushes i named are dual action, and i look at single and duel this way using this analogy. Single actions are like automatic vehicles easier to learn on, and duel action brushes are like manual vehicles - takes lots of practice to get good technique. The BIG technique I'm talking about goes as follows: " Press down on trigger, pull back for paint, keep trigger pressed down while keeping air going while pushing forward to stop paint flow." That technique is how you properly use a duel action brush. Honestly at the end of the day no single air brush will make you a better painter. I've seen amazing work done with the paasche H, and I've seen amazing work with the best iwatas etc. NEVER airbrushed before my whole life before getting into this hobby, and i took the risk going kinda big when it came to airbrushing not knowing if i was going to enjoy it or not, but ended up loving it. If i was you I'd start small and than move up like a motorcycle that way if you don't enjoy airbrushing than you wouldn't be out to big of a loss. BUT also depending on the person starting out on not so great hardware can make you actually not like something where as if you had started on something better quality that will actually make you enjoy it - if that makes sense?
  20. Well red and white makes pink. Maybe the red body didn't get covered enough?
  21. Tamiya, Mr.hobby, Alclad, and titan hobby is all i use for primers. Titans hobby black and gray primer is amazing too.
  22. Might have to try and get better with the pins or use silver sharpie OR kitchen foil route with BMF adhesive.
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