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Kit Basher

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Everything posted by Kit Basher

  1. That is nice. Everything is clean and sharp. Excellent craftsmanship!
  2. OK, because inquiring minds want to know... I read thru the whole brochure. Nowhere does it say what "pla" means.
  3. I just noticed that the tube of glue says "15 cent size". How times have changed! It looks like it could be used, but I think I'll keep it as is.
  4. I have always built both. I am an airplane nut as well as a car nut. I don't build aircraft to the level of detail and accuracy that real aircraft modellers do, just shelf models. Then again, I don't build cars to the level that real car modellers do either. I like having an aircraft and a car going at the same time. It gives me something to do while paint/glue is drying, and I don't get confused about what parts go with what.
  5. I'm starting on an original issue of the Monogram 1/72 B-52. I found this inside, thought some of you might be interested.
  6. Thanks, David! Thanks, Mattias!
  7. So, I've been doing the toothpick thing. I tried shaping a toothpick to a sort of "chisel tip", and touching the nibs at an angle. I had better control after sanding a toothpick square across, leaving a flat end about 1/32", and touching straight down onto the nibs. Because I'm working on clear parts, I had to put blue tape on the back side to help me see the rivets. I still had to move the parts around quite a bit because the rivets are really only visible when the light hits them at a certain angle. The hardest part has been getting just the right amount of paint on the toothpick. Thanks to all you kind gentlemen, I may get this task accomplished, at least to my satisfaction. Here are some pics, what do you guys think?
  8. Sorry, Joe. I must have misunderstood the website. I thought those rivets were for adding rivets where they did not exist, sort of like a 3D decal. Are they more like a colored decal to go on existing rivets?
  9. Thanks, Joe. The rivets are already there, I just need to paint them. I tried the toothpick method, and it seems like it is going to work. I will need to refine my technique and practice, but I might get there. Many thanks to all who chimed in to help! I only have to do the side windows, rear glass, and headlight covers, maybe 50 rivets. (Where is the "pulling out your hair" emoji?) If I succeed, I will post pics of the results. Thanks again!
  10. Thanks, Tom. Yes, the parts are clear. As far as flattening a toothpick, did I mention these nibs are tiny? I mean, they are TINY! The point of a round toothpick is bigger than those nibs. I agree with you and the others that a toothpick is probably the way to go, but I think I'm going to need a whole lot of luck!
  11. Thanks, everyone! So it sounds like there's no foolproof way to do this. (I could use foolproof, I'm a fool!) Just be careful and be prepared to clean up my mistakes. I think I would use enamel, my experience with acrylics is they dry too fast to clean up completely. The mechanical pencil idea is interesting, I may give that a try.
  12. It does make sense to me. There are a lot of cases where it's better to let the paint flow, instead of brushing it on. In this case, I might still be limited by a steady hand. There are a bunch of these rivets, I only have to slip once to cause a problem. I thought about masking the whole window, sanding thru the tape where the nibs are, painting the nibs, and removing the tape. Does that make sense?
  13. That sounds worth a try. I hope my hands are steady enough.
  14. Thanks, Craig! It was almost like I had no choice, they had to be these colors.
  15. I'm working on a Fujimi GT 40, and I would like to paint the rivets that hold the glass in. There are tiny nibs molded into the plastic windows, but I can't figure out how to paint them without slathering paint all over the glass. Any suggestions?
  16. Thanks, Dann! Thanks, Andre!
  17. Thanks, Gareth! Thanks, Chris!
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