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aurfalien

Vallejo woes yet again!

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Well, after some reading, apparently Crackle Medium shrinks the paint.  So, if it shrinks paint, that means it condenses and therefore thickens it?

So if a paint was thin and milky, you'd use Crackle Medium to thicken it up.

If a paint was thick, then you'd use thinner to make it flow nicer.

Seems interesting.

It would still crack when you applied it... would you want that?

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It would still crack when you applied it... would you want that?

Well, it was suggested to mix it in the bottle of paint having issues.  Vallejo support mentioned it.  Although I didn't ask the specifics on how it works and why/when to apply it.

But at the time, the pigment in the paint seemed thin so they suggested Crackle Medium.

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First of all, Vallejo markets two different lines, Model Color and Model Air, for different applications The difference is that Model Air paints are formulated for hand painting figures and small objects and are more viscous; Model Air paints are are formulated thinner, with a finer pigment, to be airbrush ready out of the bottle. You'll get less than ideal results if you attempt to hand brush Model Air and if you attempt to airbrush Model Color. Unlike Model Master Acryl, Polly Scale or if you can get them, Revell Aqua Color, neither paint has any bite when applied to styrene and will scratch off easily from unprimed styrene. A primer coat is required to ensure that the paint stays where you applied it without lifting from the surface. You can thin either with distilled water, Testors/Vallejo acrylic thinner (in the case of the vallejo thinner, DO NOT use the milky stuff in the 17 ml bottles. That's actually an extender, which is different than a thinner.) or plain old isopropyl alcohol. Applying a gloss/semi/flat sealer coat is also a good idea, preferably one of the Model Master products because the Vallejo stuff suffers from the same permanency issues as do the paints. Interestingly, Vallejo paints adhere better to unprimed resin.

Edited by SfanGoch

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 Vallejo stuff suffers from the same permanency issues as do the paints. Interestingly, Vallejo paints adhere better to unprimed resin.

Actually, in my tests, when applying several thin coats, letting each dry creates a very resilliant surface.

In fact, not even scrubbing with a tooth brush and soap/water will remove the paint.  Alcohol however will.  I must have stripped my dashboard about 6 times already until getting it right.

So while Vallejo reminds me of cell animation paint in terms of its latexy feel and very good coverage, using several very thin coats actually seems to create awesome adhesion.

Edited by aurfalien

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Well, it was suggested to mix it in the bottle of paint having issues.  Vallejo support mentioned it.  Although I didn't ask the specifics on how it works and why/when to apply it.

But at the time, the pigment in the paint seemed thin so they suggested Crackle Medium.

OK - I didn't know it was Vallejo CS that suggested it... they obviously know more about it than I... Sorry...

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A little more info;

The Crackle Medium, although used to create cracks in paint, also liquidizes settled pigment, thereby reviving it.

Vallejo is sending me another bottle of black and the Crackle Medium.

I must say that it would be a challenge to get this sort of service from other paint brands.  There customer service is pretty awesome!

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So, it that the issue, the paint hardened up in the bottom of the bottle?  Mine settled to the bottom and would not shake up but did stir up rather easily to thicken it up and cover well. 

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Well, in your case I would;

1) Place a small bearing in the bottle to promote mixing.

2) Use a drop or 3 of the Crackle Medium.

Problem is the Vallejo dries quick so I am learing to do quick brush strokes.  It does cover well though and I am getting there retardeer as well.

Funny, I got Vallejo to ease workflow and for some it does.  For me, its as much work as Tamiya.

You should fill out there web form for help to hear direct from them.  I'm a total novice, a bit incompetent modeler as well.  But I am learning.

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With the white and yellow paints you need to undercoat them with a more opaque color first. Or you simply need to slowly build the paint up with watered down coats first. I stand by Vallejo paints. They are the best brushing paints in the business.

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With the white and yellow paints you need to undercoat them with a more opaque color first. Or you simply need to slowly build the paint up with watered down coats first. I stand by Vallejo paints. They are the best brushing paints in the business.

I found that to be true in my experience.

I did a 3:1, water to yellow, doing several thin coats and got a deep rich yellow in the end.  Although some tutorials say 3;1 yellow to water.

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Have not used my little kit enough yet to give a proper assessment of these paints, but not liking what I hear about some of them. Probably will like and use some colors and pass on the finicky ones.

I have not had a whim of trouble with the Citadel set I got and find myself using them more and more as opposed to the Tamiya collection I have

This is what is great about a website like this.......getting a heads up and advice before wrecking something

So thanks for opening this thread up Brian

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No probs Twokids.

I think most of my issues are simply not being faimiar with how to paint models.

I'm used to a more traditional style on canvis/paper were you doodle with the subject.  With models, it seems you gotta do a single quick stroke and wait for them to dry, then layer another until full coverage/effect is achieved.

I just have to adapt, its hard for me as my mind still wants to doodle and play with the color/brush.

I'm starting to like and enjoy the yellow now that i am learning how to paint models.  I would say that the Vallejo self levels better then Tamiya for sure.

Although I like my Tamiyas for certain things.

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