Bernard Kron Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) ‘41 Plymouth Gasser Barn Find My first “deep weathered” project, done to gain experience in using the salt technique for corrosion and weathering powders for color and detail. This year’s NNL West (March 12th in Santa Clara, California) has as one of its 2 featured themes Rat Rods. I want to do a car for this so it was time to get friendly with Mr. Rust. The basic kit was the AMT ’41 Ford Kit. The Gasser part was done by using the gasser front axle and spring from the AMT ’32 Ford Phaeton. The extra power was provided by using a finned head for the (rather obscure) Chrysler Corp. P-series flathead six. The carburetion was achieved by scratched building a manifold for a triple set of Stromberg 97’s. Other than that it’s pretty much out of the box. Here are the details and more pictures. Thanx for lookin’,B. Chassis and suspension: Kit 1941 Plymouth chassis and rear suspension. Front suspension is the tubular straight gasser axle and transverse leaf spring from the AMT 1932 Ford Phaeton kit. All other parts from the ’41 Plymouth kit. Wheels and tires: AMT Firestone front tires and Goodyear slicks from any AMT kit you’d care to think of. Hand painted sidewalls using Tamiya acrylic white. Front steelies from AMT ’37 Chevy kit, rear reversed offset steelies are NASCAR deep dish items courtesy of Performance Plastics. Motor and transmission: Basic motor and transmission from the kit. Scratch built finned log manifold. Triple Stromberg 97’s courtesy of the late Ron Royston at Early Years Resin. Exhaust manifold from the Plymouth wedge head V8 in the kit, adapted to fit the flathead six. Paint and finishes: Underlying paint is Duplicolor Red Primer and Duplicolor Hampsted Green Metallic. Special thanks for advice on the salt technique to simulate body corrosion courtesy of countless military modelers and to Virgil Suarez (Dr. Cranky) on YouTube. Weathering powders are dirt and two shades of rust courtesy of Bragdon Enterprises and Raul Perez (Thanx Raul!). Edited July 18, 2017 by Bernard Kron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Pretty cool, Bernard! Cranky would be proud... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espo Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Nice build, very crusty looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTalmage Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Wonderful weathering. Beautiful build. Great work sir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phildaupho Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Very well done weathering on a car that looks to have been ridden hard and put away wet!!?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DumpyDan Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 I take that! Love the looks of this one, knocked it out of the park Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagercr Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 I take that! Love the looks of this one, knocked it out of the parkI agree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Thank you all.This was a great experience. The rust and dirt just seemed to come flowing out of the weathering powders. Learning about applying the powders both wet and dry, "wet " meaning over a surface wetted with isopropyl alcohol, and "dry" meaning dusting it on a dry surface with a soft, dry bush, was the critical thing. Also, using a soft tissue or cloth to remove pigment where it wasn't working right was important. Much of this was learned from viewing military modelers applying weathering to their subjects on YouTube. The salt technique was very well covered on YouTube by Dr. Cranky. As Dr. Cranky pointed out, the first time you try it you'll apply the salt over more areas than you might have wanted to, which in this case led to the heavily rusted look. The textured corroded areas created then act like magnets for the weathering powder. Eventually you learn to pinpoint where you want your corrosion. I've since started my actual; NNL West model which has far less rust, but much more strategically placed, ,which I hope will ,give it more impact. Even on this one, as I moved on to the chassis and motor I learned to more accurately control where I wanted my weathering. Very cool stuff!Thanks again for all the kind words. I'm glad you all enjoyed it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Wonderful weathering. Beautiful build. Great work sir. X2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Very realistic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davewilly Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 nice work on it the 6 cylinder is also a nice touch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 Thanx again guys! This project was Tons 'O Fun and had the desired effect - I learned a lot about weathering that I went on to use in my Rat Rod for this year's NNL West. I susoect I'll be adding weatrhering to my bag of tricks in future builds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Broken Photobucket links repaired. For now I'm only updating completed model pics. Updating w.i.p. links is just too huge a task! I'll update them on request... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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