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Nissan R34 Z-Tune - Tamiya 1/24


Mixalz

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Hi everyone,

 

I got my next project up and running. Shouldn't be starting too many more for now as I've got a few running concurrently.

This one will be built using hobby designs PE set.

Here we go:

 

Diff and brakes. I really should have painted the discs in Alclad polished aluminium to match the PE part. I'm a little annoyed at the space due to the lack of fit but am too lazy to paint the space to match.

YSnSVpg.jpg

 

Don't be an idiot like me. Check for body warp BEFORE painting. I did a fair bit of body work including prep, painting and polishing, only to realise that the it was significantly warped (see the red lines). I did attempt to reshape it but the heat softened the paint too much and resulted in fingerprints and color distortions. Into the brake fluid before this photo. 

mLciDgx.jpg

hppe9ZP.jpg

 

Comparing the badge options. LHS (3rd brake light - Hobby design PE), centre (Hobby design PE), RHS (Tamiya metal transfer, with applied decal). The photoetched parts were painted in Tamiya X27 and the cleared with Mr Super Clear. I like the depth of the photoetched parts but the metal transfers "lack" of metal connecting the GTR together did make it appealing. In the end I went with the PE.

fMWq2mh.jpg

 

More to come tonight.

Cheers, 

Michael

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Here's the interior and undercarriage shots:

- Undercarriage/body color is Tamiya TS-17

- Exhaust painted with Alclad polished aluminium. Cats tinted with Mr Hobby Smoke. Rear pipe misted with Alclad magnesium

- Individual parts were airbrushed with Mr Color paints and details painted with Vallejo paints.

KAnzm33.jpg

Gqv3mfs.jpg

mv50IMD.jpg

Tamiya weathering kit also used. Macro lens makes the particles stick out more than they really do to the naked eye.

bQnBLpo.jpg

 

Obligatory rim shot

9b8BFwy.jpg

 

Glass masked and painted

KaBWTZk.jpg

 

Interior shots. Red was Mr Color gloss red and flat base mixed. I find the durability of lacquers helps with picking out details with acrylics as I can simply use thinners to clean off any errors without affecting the underlying work.

s0ctP6r.jpg

Vallejo black used to pick out speaker grill

ABNN7ii.jpg

Flocking done with anthracite flocking powder from Scale Production

8Vngccf.jpg

Dashboard

NpsaHs6.jpg

6CBIrbN.jpg

 

Well off to bed for the night.

Michael

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Nice job on the glass. Looks like it was a pain being one peice 

It comes with masks (I am also working on this model, which is a re-popped R34 with an additional front end and wheels, and a slighlty different body (the front fenders come up to a point that rises above the leading edge of the door, unlike the smooth junction of the regular R34, the hood has vents).

 

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Thanks for the comments!

Great build so far! Sorry to see the body warp, def. atypical of Tamiya quality

I've only built 3 models so far so I'll have to take your word for it :). All have been Tamiya and all have been perfect fit; in fact sometimes panels have been too snug after painting lol. I'll still be cautious from now on though.

Love your SUPER clean work!! Q:what do you use to attach your flocking?......enamel paint, or white glue?

Thanks again. I used Tamiya enamels. I found having the colour matched paint means that I dont have to paint the area to be flocked beforehand. In fact I've flocked red carpet over a black painted surface using XF-7 (flat red paint) with no discernible shade issues. I got a bottle for each flocking (Scale Production) shade I bought:

Black flocking; XF-1 - Flat black

Red flocking; XF7 - Flat red

Blue flocking; XF8 - Flat blue

Grey flocking; XF19 - Sky grey

Anthracite flocking; XF24 - Dark grey (as seen in this model)

 

Body is now in dehydrator so more to come soon.

Michael

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  • 2 weeks later...

The silver looks great. What color did you use?

Thanks, really happy with it. First paint job was better (less dust to polish out) but this still came out really well. 

 

Paints: Tamiya TS17 Gloss Aluminium; Gunze Mr Super Clear UV cut.

 

Highly recommend the Mr Super Clear. Stuff sprays beautifully and with a decent wet coat it levels fantastically. No texture to sand. Just polish really.

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Thanks for the comments. Finishing touches to be done over next day/days. Excited!

Very nice work

What lens are you using?

Lens is Tamron 90mm F/2.8 Macro

Having only used 2 macro lenses in my life I am thoroughly impressed with the quality considering the price. Great for pets too if you have a fast hand.

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OMG your work is very clean. Steady hands for sure.

This hobby is one of the main reasons why I became a dentist :) Hobby and career have definitely helped each other.

Coming together very nicely!

Thanks!

 

Final update before I post in completed section. Just finished the interior. Seat belts took two tries.

- Attempt 1: Alclad primer only. Paint was too fragile and chipper off from tweezers.

- Attempt 2: Mr Metal Primer R then Alclad primer: Awesome stuff! The Mr Metal Primer R must have some sort of etchant in there. The emulsion hardens to a shell that is VERY durable and still flexible. Highly recommend!

f5BaxgW.jpg

tzRx3F5.jpg

okBzsyC.jpg

Well the shell is almost complete. Just contemplating how to use the photoetch number plates:

- Do I try hand painting the lettering?

- Do I paint it in lacquer black, then acrylic white and wipe off the lettering with a q-tip?

- Do I just paint it one color and use a knife to scrap off the letters like I did for the seal belts here?

Any suggestions appreciated!!!

Michael

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  • 1 month later...

Great build so far, always wondered the same REF the p/e number plates...

Finally figured this one out.

- Do I paint it in lacquer black, then acrylic white and wipe off the lettering with a q-tip?

- Do I just paint it one color and use a knife to scrap off the letters like I did for the seal belts here?

I tried two of the techniques above:

The first technique works a dream BUT don't use a q-tip (it will destroy the background). Instead use a piece of timber sanded smooth (and dust free) and drip some thinner into on to it. Once the surface is moist rub the plate to remove the extra paint from the letters. I'd imagine you could use some felt material too for the same effect but timber offcuts is what I have on hand and they are flat anyway.

The second technique will work BUT take care with scratches as they do show up. Also this will give you silver letters which I found difficult to read.

 

Bonus point 1: I tried black letters on white background. It is VERY difficult at best to get complete coverage. I could only manage to get a grey background before the letters lost their "depth".

Bonus point 2: Make sure you use primer before or you can ship away the paint while wiping

Bonus point 3: Use two different paint types. This will allow you use acrylic thinner without destroying the letter colour.

 

Under glass thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/126123-nissan-r34-z-tune-tamiya-124/

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