Another masking technique?

[BigTallDad]

I saw this on Google, and "masking" immediately came to mind.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Peel-Coat-Peelable-Primer/193883061.

Spray an area, use an Xacto to scribe/remove the area to be painted, then spray (rattle can or airbrush).

Any toughts?

[Snake45]

Go buy some, give it a try, and tell us how it works!

[BigTallDad]

Go buy some, give it a try, and tell us how it works!

I'm still recovering from surgery and a personal loss.

[LittleDrummerBoy Aka LDB]

Interesting!

[Ace-Garageguy]

Mo' debinately worth a try. I have just the project that might get back on the rails if it works. Thanks for the heads-up.

[randyc]

Back when I started in teh sign industry, we used a product called "spraylat" I think.  It is a latex rubber that can be brushed on or sprayed.   When dry, you cut and peel and spray next color.  Or rubber again and repeat til you get all the colors on.  This sounds like about the same thing.  Like the Plasti Dip painting that is so popular in some car markets.  Should work.  Use the colored top coat paints and you could reasonably do two toning with the peelable paints.

I was going to do my motorcycle fender with it to cover some paint gouges but it only says about 6 months outdoors.  

so it may work best as a masking medium.  Good idea.

[Mahogany Rush]

Anyone try the plasti-dip for masking yet? I need to darken the back fenders and masking the curve if tough plus it bleeds a bit. The car is all painted, so I want to paint the fender and surrounding area with the PDip, then xacto the fender line and peel that off. Then paint the fender, then remove the surrounding PDip. Make sense? Will it work?

[BigTallDad]

On 8/23/2017 at 12:20 PM, Ace-Garageguy said:

Mo' debinately worth a try. I have just the project that might get back on the rails if it works. Thanks for the heads-up.

I bought a can and tried it. What a joke and waste of money! 

I used plastic soda bottle bottoms, figuring they'd have about the most complex curves you could run into. I primered 5 bottles, the sprayed a color coat of Duplicolor, Krylon, Tamiya, Testors, and Rustoleum (one brand per bottle). After they were dry, I sprayed the peelable primer on each. DISMAL results! Finally, I read the instructions (what a concept!) and saw the multiple coats (four or more) are recommended. Soooo I took two bottles, sprayed five coats on each, and I still couldn't attain the peel-able aspect and in every case, the color coat was attacked.

Conclusion: maybe it works as intended for temporary use on 1:1 vehicles, but as a masking agent on models, forget it!

[Ace-Garageguy]

11 hours ago, BigTallDad said:

I bought a can and tried it. What a joke and waste of money! 

...Conclusion: maybe it works as intended for temporary use on 1:1 vehicles, but as a masking agent on models, forget it!

Thank you. Posting negative results arrived at by actual experimentation is VERY valuable.

[Mahogany Rush]

Yes, thank you for testing. I was about to buy some, but now I'll buy a nice cigar and mask as usual, Thanx

[BigTallDad]

Glad to help.  Another thing I ran into was the primer kept beading up, almost like water paint on an enamel surface...I was never able to apply a coat of primer that completely covered the bottom of the bottle; maybe because I had the bottles clamped in an inverted position while they were drying...

Edited April 6, 2018 by BigTallDad

[Psychographic]

Any liquid mask has to be applied thick or in multiple layers to be able to be peeled off. Chances are if you think you have it thick enough, add about 2-3 coats more.

 

The best thing I could suggest is try it on some scrap similar to the shape you are applying it to. If you are doing a part with a lot of ridges and detail, remember that the top edges are going to be much thinner than the valleys when applying it. The more detailed the part, the thicker it needs to be. Practicing on scrap parts will give you the feel of how thick you have to apply it. If you have areas that don't peel up, try putting tape over it after the paint dries to lift it up.

Edited April 6, 2018 by Psychographic

[Ace-Garageguy]

Randyc mentioned "spraylat".

Many new aircraft canopies and windows come with a protective layer of the stuff both on the inside and outside.

When we install them (canopies and windows are usually bonded in) we remove the latex from the bonding area only. After installation, a hard-edge masked line is created with 3M fine-line tape, and wider tape to bridge the gap back to the latex mask.

After painting, the whole mess is peeled off.

If you have a LARGE area to mask, spraylat to cover the majority of it might work very well.

[Snake45]

8 hours ago, Psychographic said:

Any liquid mask has to be applied thick or in multiple layers to be able to be peeled off. Chances are if you think you have it thick enough, add about 2-3 coats more.

 

I don't have that problem with my homemade white-glue-based concoction. 

[BigTallDad]

On 4/6/2018 at 10:22 AM, Psychographic said:

Any liquid mask has to be applied thick or in multiple layers to be able to be peeled off. Chances are if you think you have it thick enough, add about 2-3 coats more.

The best thing I could suggest is try it on some scrap similar to the shape you are applying it to. If you are doing a part with a lot of ridges and detail, remember that the top edges are going to be much thinner than the valleys when applying it. The more detailed the part, the thicker it needs to be. Practicing on scrap parts will give you the feel of how thick you have to apply it. If you have areas that don't peel up, try putting tape over it after the paint dries to lift it up.

Did you thoroughly read my posts? They regarded this product (and only this product): 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Peel-Coat-Peelable-Primer/193883061.

I'm not sure I would consider an aerosol spray to be of the same consistency as a "Any liquid mask". With a liquid, you can dip the part or brush-paint the solution on the part; it is totally different when spraying from a rattle can.

The plastic soda bottle bottoms I used were the most severe examples I could find to test the product's effectiveness; I wanted to see how well it allowed masking on complex curves, not flat surfaces. If it might work on a flat surface, why bother when masking tape serves the same purpose? I didn't practice on scrap parts to determine how thick it needs to be applied, because spraying doesn't really give you that option. In every respect, the product failed the test, and that's what my thread was meant to convey.

If you have used that identical product with good results on test pieces as complex as I used, please post how you accomplished that...I'd be very interested to see how you were able to do that. My limited testing proved (to me, at least) the Rustoleum Peelable Primer is not suitable for use as a masking product for models.

Edited April 8, 2018 by BigTallDad

[Psychographic]

Maybe you need to spray heavier coats?

Edited April 8, 2018 by Psychographic

[BigTallDad]

8 hours ago, Psychographic said:

Maybe you need to spray heavier coats?

I did, and (as mentioned earlier) the paint beaded up like water on oil.

[peteski]

On 4/4/2018 at 9:37 PM, Mahogany Rush said:

Anyone try the plasti-dip for masking yet? I need to darken the back fenders and masking the curve if tough plus it bleeds a bit. The car is all painted, so I want to paint the fender and surrounding area with the PDip, then xacto the fender line and peel that off. Then paint the fender, then remove the surrounding PDip. Make sense? Will it work?

I don't think that is a good idea.  Plasti-Dip uses solvents similar to what is used as solvents in model  paints.  If you apply it over paint it might start attacking/dissolving the paint.