Loosing Detail

[NOBLNG]

I am trying to get this Spaz Stix solid red paint on smooth.  I put one coat of krylon grey primer and one coat of krylon white primer from a rattle can. Then I airbrushed a lite coat of the red, heavier coat of red, wet-sand, another coat of red, wet sand, another coat of red. This coat, although fairly smooth, has dust or lint in it and needs more sanding. By now I have lost a lot of the detail on the script, mostly from paint build-up, as I tried not to sand it! I have read somewhere on here that some folks sand the script off and just use the decals. I have also read that some put 12 coats of paint on? Should I strip the paint and start over? What do others do to preserve the details?

Edited February 25, 2018 by NOBLNG

[Snake45]

Personally, at this point, I'd strip and start over. I'd go with one coat of cheap Walmart white primer, then airbrush it with Testors #4 red (if you're going for a factory color). The Spaz Stix doesn't seem to be working for you. 

That paint buildup around the rear Pontiac nameplate is WAY more than you should have to deal with. 

[NOBLNG]

That is what I am thinking also. I am not going for a factory color. I thought the Spaz Stix sounded good because it was "ready to spray" from the bottle.

[ScottH454]

You probably lost it when you used that primer. I used a general rattle can primer and yeah there meant to give a high build coating. If you do have an airbrush you should spray your primer with that. My advice to avoid using two colors of primer would be to tint the white with some of your red paint, assuming you have compatible paints. One coat to sand an fix any issues then go back over with enough to cover your sand through.

Edited to add pictures of a Nova body I just sprayed. At least to coats of Tamiya spray can primer sanded smooth, enough to cover the plastic is all that was needed. Then based with many coats of a cheaper orange automotive paint from an airbrush. Nearly the whole 2oz bottle of paint from scalefinishes. Then with any lint an dirt cleaned up I sprayed with maybe five coats of Hugger Orange. While I may have put 20+ coats of paint on this body the airbrush coats where always a very light coat. I never tried to put on a "heavier" coat cause guess what, heavy paint flows into that detail. So from this step forward I'll be using automotive two part clear tinted with this orange paint to airbrush on a coat of clear to "seal" this base coat from damage during decals. Then use straight clear to cover all that up. This is where I can get in trouble with to much clear an my paint job looks like your Firebird.

 

Edited February 25, 2018 by ScottH454

[NOBLNG]

Very Nice looking so far! Please post more pics of it when it's done. I am my own worst enemy as I tend to be very impatient and lay it on too thick

[High octane]

Why the grey and the white primer Greg? I'd only use the white primer and I would use Tamiya primer as it's a lot thinner. I also paint two light color coats and one wet color. coat. Same with the clear coats. I try to use the least amount of paint that I can get away with so not to bury the details like chrome strips, glass frames, scripts, emblems, etc.

[NOBLNG]

I was under the impression that the red paint would work better over white primer. The kit was molded in white so it would be hard to see if I sanded through the white primer, hence the light coat of the grey primer first.

[935k3]

You should have sande the primer smooth before applying. Tamiya primer is better and much thinner than Krylon.

[ScottH454]

21 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

I was under the impression that the red paint would work better over white primer. The kit was molded in white so it would be hard to see if I sanded through the white primer, hence the light coat of the grey primer first.

I knew what you were doing there as I have one I have to do the same with. Grey primer is easier to see imperfections but expensive to cover up. Hence the 20 coats of ScaleFinishes paint at $12 to cover the grey I sprayed over on that Nova.

[espo]

I think if you ask ten people what type or brand of Primer to use you would get 12 to 15 answers. One thing I would suggest during your sanding and priming of the body, take a very small strip of tape and cover the emblems and lettering until you have gotten all of the other body issues straightened out. Only after all of that would I remove the masking tape for the very last light primer coat. Many builders here seem to prefer Automotive or inexpensive primers, and if that works for you then do that. I prefer to spend a little more money and use either Tamiya primers or Mr. Surfacer primer since it doesn't seem to "bury" the details when priming. I would use very light coats of Gray primer while working on the body since the contrast makes it easier to see the imperfections you are working on. When you have the body as smooth as you want it then paint your last coat with White primer. The lighter shade of primer seems to make most lighter colors that much brighter than if you used a Grey primer. 

[Snake45]

My impression of the Revell '68 Firebird is that the body is so good it shouldn't need much primer at all. I'd think one coat of the cheap Walmart flat white--which is actually excellent stuff--would work fine. 

I've never used Tamiya primer but I hear it's excellent stuff. But the Walmart flat white is SO good I really doubt the Tamiya could be THAT much better to justify its MUCH higher price. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

I'm one of those guys that uses "12 coats of paint", sometimes as many as 14 or 15.

I'm not sure what's going on here, but my suspicion would be the primer/paint that you're using.

I can use my usual 12 or more coats of primer, color & clear without getting anywhere near this type of result, & that, many times, is all shot from a spray can.

I generally will use almost all Duplicolor primers & clears, & often colors.

I have zero experience with "Spaz Stix" paint & Krylon primer, but you might want to rethink those products.

Any good auto parts store should carry all sorts of primers & Duplicolor touch up paints that should give you a better out come.

If you try them, just remember that they are lacquers designed for real automobiles, not plastic, so you need to be careful about application techniques.

 

This is one of those "12 or more coat" builds all shot with a rattle can.

No issues with detail hide.

 

Steve

 

 

[NOBLNG]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I have stripped all the red paint off with super clean and most of the white primer is off. I am going to soak it again and/or try alcohol.  I have bought some Tamiya fine grey primer that I will use this time. I am reluctant to use the spaz stix paint again unless I can thin it down some. I will have to do a little experimenting I guess.

BTW Steve, that Galaxie is BEAUTIFUL!