Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Pro mod chassis help


Recommended Posts

what is it you want? that's a mighty broad question without knowing more specifics. type of car body, vintage of build, what power plant.......etc.


and what does this refer too?   "  Revell notchback specific a plus"   i don't build in 1/25 so, this means absolutely nothing to me.


i have a ton of reference but you need to give more info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool. Another option open to you is to find a real car online that fits your idea and then contact the owner online. You'd be surprised how forthcoming folks can be with photos and technical info when they hear you want to build a model.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a scratch builder that does a lot of research on every build and that seeks out those that are truly in the know.......go to Jerry Bickels website and buy their new book on chassis construction.  Covers pro-stock and pro-mod.  It's under their "Info Center" link btw.  It's not cheap, $79.95 but you'll find it helpful if you're looking to build your own from scratch.  Another great 1:1 builder that Dave (comp1839) put me onto that has a LOT of on line videos/tutorials on real pro mod chassis construction is the Tim McAmis website.  Both are very informative and up to date.  You should find them to be most helpful.  Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is why i ask questions. you want a pro mod chassis and then you say think shadow 1.0. steve jacksons shadow (mustang) wasn't a pro mod and the chassis are completely different. the mustang was a back half car.

now, do you want outlaw back half stuff or real pro mod stuff.

the difference in firewalls in these 2 types of cars is night and day.

back half / outlaw type


pro mod type



see the difference?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

see......now we're getting somewhere. tube chassis,factory body.  since you mentioned firewall and floor pans. here ya go.

firewall w/out sheet metal. just the tubing layout.


firewall with sheet metal.



driver side floorpan.


does that work for ya?


Link to comment
Share on other sites

here is a basic chassis design from the chassisworks site.


here's the basic setup to establish the 4 link.


front suspension, firewall and steering in one shot.


i don't know the level of detail that you build too but, as you can see by being specific in your request. you can get the specific answers you are looking for.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you decide on the nitrous combo you want to do. i may have some very highly detailed pics from different engine  builders.

pat musi  efi /nitrous.


gene fulton  splits/ efi .



reher morrisn efi/ nitrous.



sonny leonard  efi/ nitrous.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks so much. This is going to be a huge help. Never been around these cars so its not likely going to be nuts and bolts correct, or even to a specific sanctioning body.. May even end up a pro street style rig. 20180927_234102_HDR.thumb.jpg.da369f743d062566b8ff83256019dfc6.jpgi run a cnc laser table for work so ive been making my own jigs and templates. Also will be cutting most of the interior sheet metal and firewall out of .015 thick stainless. Made 3 piece brake rotors and am about halfway through turning a set of front spindles and coil overs on the lathe.20180927_234117_HDR.thumb.jpg.ac17acc62cb438ad84a30bd2a92e0338.jpg20180926_221926_HDR.thumb.jpg.aec83911f0413d5a5d6ff978b1b45795.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sounds like you are off to great start. the mock up looks perfect...love the stance.

here is a suggestion. on the frame you have started your main frame rails (the 2 in the center) should be one piece all the way to the front. it will make your model much stronger in the end.


here are some chassis shots to get you thinking ahead. so you can plan your next moves.





as an FYI. you should copy and save these pics as i won't keep them up here forever.  keep up the good work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mark and anyone else reading this.  the print from chassis works is for a 94 -98 mustang. it's 101.3"wheelbase. 78-93 mustangs were 100.5". so if you print this out and either blow it up or reduce it to the correct size it should be a fairly close representation. the cage bars or other bars may need some massaging but it should get you in the ball park. the front and rear suspension mounting points should be particularly helpful.

not many of the chassis companies put their prints out for you to view like this, so i'd take advantage of it. there are also helpful work sheets that can help you figure out rear  end widths and other stuff. searching adds in magazines and then going to the manufacturers  websites can be a big help.

mark, don't worry if your build ends up being a pro street car. the '37 in my avatar is an ex-pro mod that in now my pro street car. hehe. they make wonderful street cars!!!

a couple more pics.

here is the all important driveshaft enclosure. the ball valves are for the nitrous.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...