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Lola T-70 Mk III

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To eliminate the screws that fastened the cowl to a pair of brass brackets anchored to the tub, I removed the brackets and made new parts to hold three magnets on each side.  Three more magnets were set in recessed holes in the tub and a brass tube was used to help align the set up.  The brass tube may or may not stay… This is the right side just behind the front wheel well.

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It used to take me several minutes to assemble or disassemble even a couple of these parts with all the screws I used to get it trued up and properly aligned.

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Now with the magnets it only takes a few seconds to completely tear down or assemble all this.  And the doors operate.  Now I think I'll redo the hood the same way

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Your use of magnets piqued my curiosity so I went searching and found a website offering a huge variety with many incredibly small ones.  Especially fascinated by the extremely small tubular ones that I'm thinking can be used somehow in my effort to make posable steering. Micro magnets

Thank you for posting this.

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Posted (edited)

You're welcome Raymond.  I've used magnets for quite a while in models, but this one already holds the record for most used in a single project for me.

Edited by Scale-Master

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I received the first set of wheels that Fraxional grew/printed from the SolidWorks files I made.  These are 100% raw as delivered.  Rear parts on the left and front parts on the right.  They are still on the supports and are slated to be used for mock-up only, but I may finish them just to see how they'll look.

bQlxn0U.jpg

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10 hours ago, Scale-Master said:

I received the first set of wheels that Fraxional grew/printed from the SolidWorks files I made.  These are 100% raw as delivered.  Rear parts on the left and front parts on the right.  They are still on the supports and are slated to be used for mock-up only, but I may finish them just to see how they'll look.

bQlxn0U.jpg

Mark, a technical question for you.  Knowing your machine working skills, would it not be easier to print the center and turn the outer rims front and rear and sandwich them together?  Just a thought. 

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As I mentioned when I shared the pictures of the SW design, these will be a combination of machined aluminum and 3D printed masters.  These are just for mock up so I don't have to put the machine time in now.  Plus if I decide to sell copies, these will work with the kit tires and suspension without the need for the end user to fabricate anything.

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The front hood mounting bosses were cut down and holes were milled into them to accept magnets.  1/8th inch steel rods were cut as receivers since a second pair of magnets would create too much pull for that part of the hood.  Plastic spacers center the rods in the brass tubes.  Driver's side is installed. 

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Magnets were also installed in the rear-view mirror supports at the cowl edge.

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23 hours ago, Scale-Master said:

As I mentioned when I shared the pictures of the SW design, these will be a combination of machined aluminum and 3D printed masters.  These are just for mock up so I don't have to put the machine time in now.  Plus if I decide to sell copies, these will work with the kit tires and suspension without the need for the end user to fabricate anything.

Ahah, I missed that part!:unsure:

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2 hours ago, Pete J. said:

Ahah, I missed that part!:unsure:

And... If you get a set you can use the provided outer rims as a guide and turn your own from metal.  Win-Win!

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11 minutes ago, Scale-Master said:

And... If you get a set you can use the provided outer rims as a guide and turn your own from metal.  Win-Win!

Good idea!

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Mark, I have always appreciated and admired your work and the tutorialesque flavor of your posts. Your pictures and descriptions have helped me improve my building skills over the years. This kit is a grail kit for me and I will be saving all these pictures in a special file for future use.

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That's very kind of you to say Mitch.  Best of luck when you take the T-70 plunge.

 

I spent about a half hour removing the supports (like sprues on injection molded parts) and cleaning up the support points on these two rear wheel pieces.  There are no mold lines to deal with on 3D printed parts, but there can be a texture on some areas.  These did not need any attention in regards to smoothing texture out.  The material Fraxional used on these is more like resin than styrene in the way it sands and creates a very fine powder.  There is a mild odor, but it's not objectionable.

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A little paint for the heck of it…  I played around with some weathering/chipping techniques to make it look used.  I see by the fit of the tire I can go wider with the rim.

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Pretty cool David!  Thanks for sharing!

 

I reworked the lower nose section that holds the driving lights and stone guard for the radiator.  It fit OK, but not positively.  I used a combination of sheet styrene and removal of some material to make it fit. 

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The junction boxes for the lights house magnets in the hood section.

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Now that the hood locates to the tub and center body section consistently, I reshaped the surfaces where the hood meets the cowl.  I took off a good .030 - .040 of material on the upper surfaces and did a lot of blending.  The white is the sheet styrene filler.  Not done, but good enough until I do the same to the doors and side pods and center section.

9WYBV8V.jpg

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I started reworking one of the forward bulkheads/core support.  I drilled out the duct openings molded into the part and added ducting and supports on the inside so it can be installed without the flexible cooling ducts.  The elbows won't be seen when it's assembled, but I didn't want the intakes dumping into an open space.  I also shimmed the edges for a better fit.

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The A-Pillar sections of the doors are inherently weak, and I could see with all the heating and bending some fractures were appearing.  They would have broken well before I could get to painting and if they broke it would affect all the fitting I had already done.  I bent some .061 spring steel reinforcements that fixed the arc to closely match that of the A-Pillar along the windshield.

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The left door.

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The right door.

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A lot more sanding and shaping was done to the doors and roof after the doors were set in their frames and hinges and reinforced with steel, (way more than the hood received).  I added a few thousandths of an inch of material around the windshield and center of the roof and removed and added more elsewhere; as much as .030 was removed (at the bottom of the doors) in addition to what had been done previously.

The door panel lines are getting trued up and both doors operate well.

All the holes I drilled for threaded hardware have been filled too.  Since the primer has been sanded off much of the material used to reshape the doors and other parts is visible.  Clearly more work to do… but a lot of progress so far too…

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Posted (edited)

And we have an action shot… 

GB87lEs.mp4

Edited by Scale-Master

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Posted (edited)

I started making the shifter and the linkages to connect it to the shift shaft that ultimately feeds into the transmission.  All brass, hand filed and soldered.
At this point the shifter mechanism actually is functional, but will likely be "frozen" in first or neutral later.

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Edited by Scale-Master

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I cleaned up and assembled the other wheels Fraxional "grew" from my files.  But I decided to try some other colors for the heck of it.

wvDXL2G.jpg

ktAM4IK.jpg

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The tires were one of the parts I intended to use at the start.  I was a little concerned however when they turned out to be Bridgestones instead of Firestones as shown on the box art. 

What became a larger concern was that they were a little wonky in shape (probably from long-term storage) and there were flaps of rubber material on some of the sidewalls. 

I put the rims in them to hopefully retrain their shape and that worked well over the course of a few weeks of resting.

But when I started to sand the tread to give a scuffed look and remove the mold lines, light colored specks started to show through.  They were embedded in the material.  Removal would leave a divot or scar, so I applied some dye I use for resin casting and it hid the spots well. 

QZjIwAm.jpg

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Nice work.
I like the Lola T-70 Mk III a lot but I wish someone did it in 1:24-1:25 scale...I don't have room for big scale kits.

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