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Posted

Do all 2 part puttys dry hard as a rock? Tamiya 2-part "Quick Type" does!  Maybe I got a stale batch.  It only responds to Dremel grinding.  Help!

Posted

I have used an epoxy putty, got many years ago, does dry really hard, but it also shrinks and warps the body if given a chance.  I recently tried Milliput, but don't like how it stays sort of soft, like Sculpty bake-in-the-oven consistency.

Posted
3 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

I have used an epoxy putty, got many years ago, does dry really hard, but it also shrinks and warps the body if given a chance.  I recently tried Milliput, but don't like how it stays sort of soft, like Sculpty bake-in-the-oven consistency.

There are different colors/grades of Milliput two part epoxy putty, from basic yellow/gray through to fine white. They should all dry quite hard eventually if mixed correctly.

The drying time will be affected by humidity and temperature. I like to use the basic yellow/gray Milliput and have also tried the terracotta, black, and fine white, and have had good results.

It's not a good idea to apply large amounts of epoxy putty on a model, especially a car, and then expect to try and grind it to shape. It's best to use small amounts at a time and do as much sculpting, shaping and smoothing while it's still pliable, and final sanding when it's dry.

You can also mix Milliput with small amounts of Duro Kneadatite Green Stuff for certain applications, Green Stuff is very sticky. 

Storage can be a problem, keeping the stuff cool and dry can be tricky.

Posted

I am a huge fan of Milliput Superfine White putty. It dries hard, but can be sanded. It can also be worked with wet tools/fingertips. Just use water, no need for solvents. To make it stick better, get it slightly wet and then press it on to the plastic. It is very versatile. I have rolled it into thin sheets and applied to to a model tank, for simulating Zimmerit; an anti-magnetic coating applied to some German vehicles in WWII. I scratched the surface with the back edge of an X-acto to give it more to hold on to, then rolled the texture into it with the lid of a paint jar. 

Again, I am a huge fan of this stuff. 

King Tiger tank in winter white Camo. Markings painted on by hand. 2v2uNKEuNxeZA4.jpg

With a test piece for practicing the Zimmerit and painting markings by hand.

2v2uFWpL9xeZA4.jpg

Posted

Hi!

I use Evercoat 2-part catalyzed putty, and it works perfectly. 

You actually control curing time and final "hardness" by experimenting with the ratio of hardener to putty. However, softer means it may impact finishing operations later on (sanding, grooving, scribing, etc.). Fully cured with right amount of hardener, it will usually remain rock solid, and not shrink.

With all brands of kits, I have never encountered any occurence of harming or shrinking the styrene substrate. 

Finally, you have a "window" to slice-off any surplus with your Exacto blade after it starts to cure, reducing the sanding time, dust, etc. 

This Willys body made extensive use of the stuff, and never shrank. 

Good luck!

CT

 

DSCF3686 (2).JPG

Posted

Thank you for all these great responses.  BTW, when are they going to start 'charging' for the privilege of using this Forum?!  Thanks again.

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