swede70 Posted February 8, 2022 Author Share Posted February 8, 2022 (edited) Greetings, Noticing that the diecast metal bodies weren't happily melding with my chassis mock ups for errors of judgement here and there, I had to trim the tops of each rear bulkhead, better support each package shelf, trim the floor panel inserts I'd created, and further trim the driveline hump overlay I'd worked up previously. After the aforementioned misery for sorting one chassis, I then repeated the labor twice over to bring everything into line. Better now, resting comfortably, setting the experience of momentary trauma behind me. Also noticed are new driveshaft assemblies - woo hoo! Thanks... Previous cage installation images apparently didn't include the rear bulkhead and package shelf in-place, although these do. Notice how the door top side bars of the roll cage vanish from sight when viewed from this perspective. A challenge it is and was to coax the package shelf to sit both level and straight. The seat mount seen across images stands to be redone given what is made out here seems clunky. A transmission cross member, lightly made from scratch will be next up, and with it each engine/trans. assembly will angle back a touch further than what is discerned here. Lightly revised valve covers are on view, revealing some hex rod plugs presumably screwed into the center of each stamping. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K./Swede70 Edited February 8, 2022 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cholmes1 Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 Incredible work Mike. The last two photos without the body really highlight the amazing level of detail and attention you have placed into this project. The decals also look great. Very happy everything worked out well with Sam. I look forward to future progress photos Be well 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainford Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 An impressive effort. I appreciate your going the extra mile to achieve historical accuracy. It looking great. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) Greetings and thanks for the recent kind notice... The last iteration of the decals was finally received, commissioned as the work was to 3 Amigos Decals. Much thanks to Sam Lopez for his great patience and noted expertise, whereas hoping the aqua tone chosen from a test sheet will translate into something that'll work smoothly enough. Seen situated atop the sheets delivered one will see a shaker scoop repainted in Testor's Model Master Nassau Blue Metallic/Custom Lacquer System/No. 28128 - a product and product line since discontinued but found here or there at area hobby shows, while to the right is a resin hood plug I hope to employ in some capacity as a pattern to cut material from the hood stripe to accommodate the shaker hole underneath. Not certain how I'll quite do this, nevertheless for experimentation I hope to find a way. On the '70 1/2 Firebird Trans Am model, the stripe was decal, the shaker finished in a slightly different hue bearing a mild metallic effect that is present here complete with a gloss overlay. In the main I'm happy... The ordering code hasn't been obscured here, hence if someone would be inclined to seek a copy or copies, I really haven't set a barrier up to prevent such. What's seen is 1:18th scale again, ERTL diecast-based. My resin pedal mold performed in two-part urethane is half done, while seat mount refinements and interior rear bulkhead surface detail work stands to come next. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70 Edited February 16, 2022 by swede70 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted February 19, 2022 Author Share Posted February 19, 2022 (edited) Greetings, Slowly working up to some chassis revisions, work was undertaken to make way for the front sway bar installation. Not the usual solid bar configured in a more or less stock location in this instance, what was fit instead was a 2 inch tube situated atop the subframe back of the radiator and forward of the engine accessory drive as would be expected. Although formal mounts, sway bar 'arms' and links stand to come, each front wheel arch liner was cut out to afford clearance to the hardware outlined, guided as the work is by reference to period photos outlining such. Moving along, each bottom control arm/engine cross member/front sway bar combined casting was trimmed to remove evidence of the sway bar and mounts, while odd it is to note that ERTL basically doubled up the steering linkages on the base model I'm employing; i.e. in a sense this model is BOTH a front-steer and rear-steer configured design! Well - at least if I do away with the rear steer elements, the bottom of the engine bay opens up consistent with affording plenty of space for a tube header installation, hence I have that. Thanks for your review of this post. Just as it's delivered and viewed from below. I hope I can cast plugs that will afford some limited lower shock absorber mount detail to effectively seal off the screw access points visible here. Cleaning up residual plastic that makes up the front sway bar as it crosses the steering linkage hasn't been so fun given the softness of the plastic ERTL employed here. Hopefully I can do a better job of it, while a steering arm further needs to be fabricated given what one is witnessing here is a solitary idler arm. Just quickly tack glued into place, seen forward is the sway 'tube' atop the difficult to discern front subframe, while the cutouts of each front wheel arch liner can with difficultly be made out. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K./Swede70 Edited February 19, 2022 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 (edited) Greetings... Seen briefly is the dashboard in place, having been filed to mimic how the base of the assembly was trimmed in-period, but also to ensure that everything below it on this project may properly fit. In addition, a seat support frame melded into the fiberglass seat shell begins to take form even as I've not completed the seat mounts or rails on the floor such might be positioned atop. Rainy weather prevents my applying paint to interior door trim that I'd otherwise fit to the project consistent with testing the fit of every last major interior component, although in the main things look good. Constituting about the limits of what I can do here - especially with thickly-rendered interior door trim and heavy-handed dogleg door hinges, this is where matters stand. Mounting tabs and very faint seat mounting rail detail stands to be added. An in-period photo from the 1970 Laguna Seca race program capturing the roll cage fabrication phase of the initial 1:1 build. Notice the very thick door jamb dimensions which I'm powerless at present to reproduce. I don't know - I'm just not willing to call things to a halt on the basis of door jamb dimensions, especially given how easy the rocker panels are to twist and crack on a white metal/Zamac bodyshell. Best reasoned compromise then, with interior door trim complete with thick map pockets commanding space down low and forcing matters concerning what I can capture for shape. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K./Swede70 Edited February 22, 2022 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TransAmMike Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 Your build here continues to be a work of art....👌👌 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 (edited) Greetings... Here some side bars have been added to the roll cage structure to flesh it out, while two bars consistent with tying in the rear subframe/Watt's linkage support structure (underneath then, and slated to be added) extend back from the main hoop towards the rear bulkhead. A partial effort to come up with bars to tie-in the front suspension pick up points is slated to follow, while barely discerned would be the addition of a floor shifter less shifter ball. A vent for the rear bulkhead, some strengthening ribs along the face of the same, plus a dual fire extinguisher installation is likely next. Interior wiring, hoses, etc., come later given I'm focused mainly on having all the parts I need reasonably sorted before applying finishes. Doubtlessly I have much to learn in relation to finishes and finish choices, hence a range of further lessons stand to be absorbed and processed each in turn. Closing out, I wish the 'vee' formed by the side roll cage members were more relaxed and closer to symmetrical looking forward, although clearance needs for the dog leg door hinges forces the compromise witnessed here. Thanks for your review of this post. Mike K./Swede70 Edited February 28, 2022 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 ...and just some additional bars to tie-in the front suspension pick up points/subframe, with small nubs added nearest the dashboard installation that will doubtlessly be sanded away almost entire. Fitting the shell atop what's seen will involve a certain amount of stress, but if things work out well enough, then the additions made out can be duplicated and added to the other builds. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted March 7, 2022 Author Share Posted March 7, 2022 (edited) Greetings, Not shatteringly exciting this, but for test-fitting the roll cages worked up, one proved too wide up front and succumbed to breakage when I tried to disassemble the same. The brass core remained intact, although the wall of the plastic tubing used ripped off at the joins rendering one effort so much junk. Further, two interior floor panels had been cut too short at a previous stage, hence for a week or two I was down one chassis. Noticed is a new roll cage intended to match the dimensions of the best two previous efforts, complete with slightly longer floor pan inserts front to back. In sum, at least I should be able to fill in the sides of the two remaining cages for having things squared up in this regard. Also made out would be an inexpensive engine option employing GMP '70 GTO Judge cylinder heads, the same being filled with clay prior to being copied in resin. The roll cage tubes tying in the front subframe/suspension pickup points proved unworkable given the odd dimensions of the ERTL front subframe, hence these will be redone even if the positioning of the same will require a bit of smoke and mirror work to suggest alignment not quite possible with this tool. Lastly, the radiator expansion tanks and TRACO remote oil filter mount in addition to the heater core fill plate were redone and repositioned on all three chassis to match. Thanks and hoping to be back on track soon... Mike K./Swede70 Edited March 7, 2022 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted March 10, 2022 Author Share Posted March 10, 2022 (edited) Greetings, For some application all three chassis now have their side roll cage members as well as the rearmost outriggers. Mostly sorted now, while smaller interior additions and rear bulkhead work in particular stand to come next. Such will include paired fire bottles, horizontal strengthening ribs (three), and at least one vent to the fuel cell/trunk compartment as per period photos. Anti-vibration Lords mounts (four then) plus a small platform should be introduced under the CDI voltage regulators seen forward of the shifters where present, although space for the same inside the interior of the old ERTL second generation Firebird tool is very tight. Moving along though. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70 Edited March 10, 2022 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted March 10, 2022 Author Share Posted March 10, 2022 The sills on the ERTL tool have a pair of locating tabs with threaded bosses intruding into the interior floor, whereas it never really seemed much of an option to cut or file them out given each was weakened for twisting and straightening attempted and achieved far earlier. I had to remove evidence of the wheel arch aerodynamic 'spats' on each body, hence the structural strength of each rocker panel has already been compromised in this regard. Continuing, clearance afforded for the roll cage sides will be tight, although the hope is that I'll be able to securing glue the cage assemblies to each floor and simply rock the bodies with doors open to drop everything into position. Seen below are the U-shaped cutouts found on either sides roughly relating the dimensions of such relative to the roll cage sides. The trunk area won't be visible given opening each panel on this thick diecast shell is not something I'll try, hence a bit underwhelming beneath such. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phildaupho Posted March 11, 2022 Share Posted March 11, 2022 Excellent thread. I am a real fan of Historic Trans Am having seen them race many times at vintage events. I have built 5 Trans Am models so far and hope to have a complete a grid someday of all the varieties that raced in the original series including the three years of Firebirds. I will definitely be using your thread for reference building a 1970 Firebird. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted March 30, 2022 Author Share Posted March 30, 2022 (edited) Thanks again for the kind notice... Trying if you will to sort some additional detail seen across the rear bulkhead, with a trio of strengthening ribs, a pair of fire bottles as well as a vent straight through the panel situated to the right witnessed. The vent has three walls forming a small tunnel of sorts fixed to the backside (the fourth is formed by the wheel well sheet metal), whereas a small brass screen serving presumably as a flame arrestor will be cut and added from behind to finish matters more or less cleanly. Still pondering how to configure the fire bottles relative to the roll cage members coming down and terminating near the installation, whereas the upturned sheet metal wedge seen may shift sides given different sources have it sited differently. The wedge would have had a rear differential oil cooler fit beneath it, although I'm not really sure I want to go through the trouble of adding said detail from below. When at peace with what's suggested here, I'll reproduce the work three times over. Given the restored car or cars really don't feature such, this is a snippet of a photo capturing the profile of the rear bulkhead. Happily the half-round stock I've employed seems about right for size, although again one can see that the driveline overlay fabricated from sheet aluminum is fairly narrow as contrasted to what I came up with for having to deal with a rather thick and high transmission tunnel plus hump. Not really a good view of the vent, but generally looking happy. Given the thick interior door trim, room remaining for the roll cage and especially the seat situated within the space reserved for such is revealed to be minimal. Just white craft glue is holding the new additions in place, although I'll probably go with what's made out here. Thanks for your review of this project update. Mike K./Swede70 Edited March 30, 2022 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted March 30, 2022 Author Share Posted March 30, 2022 Ugh - for more careful review of what '70 Laguna Seca images I've isolated, it seems the strengthening ribs seen on the rear bulkhead are equal length and somewhat abbreviated for width. Trimming the ends and rounding the same wasn't huge fun, although things look cleaner. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted April 16, 2022 Author Share Posted April 16, 2022 (edited) Greetings, For failure to perform due diligence with regards to fitting the bodies over each roll cage assembly plus chassis, a number of things were found to be either in need of adjustment or simply had to be redone across my T/G Firebird projects. Better now, hence the bodies, the roll cage with all extensions, the plastic 'glass' insert with the dashboard in-place and door assemblies with interior trim likewise in-place live in reasoned harmony across three assemblies. Envision what's seen here three-times over consistent with my coming closer to a final result. Witnessed is the spare shell less-flares again, hence the tight fit and goofy offset perceived in relation to the rear track in particular. First released as a '73 SD-455 Firebird Trans Am, the ERTL tool of old displays fender-to-radiator support braces that are best cut off on an earlier car. Thanks... ...while I have to prove that the doors actually close with the rather thick interior trim in-place. Mike K./Swede70 Edited April 18, 2022 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted April 18, 2022 Author Share Posted April 18, 2022 (edited) ...just the '70 Mid-Ohio effort back on wheels with all of the interior paneling and residual stock interior trim in-place, this mated to matching flared body hitherto isolated off to one corner. Each dashboard was trimmed from below even as the dash pad remains largely untouched much like the actual racers, fitting the driveline hump overlay with the CDI voltage regulator assembly/assemblies also calling the area home. Happily, the radiator support wearing a cast resin clone GMP '70 GTO Judge radiator fits cleanly. Space is tight for the tubular front sway bar mounted atop the subframe, although nothing too serious was discovered for test fitting things as-witnessed below. Note too how the radiator support to the fender braces were cut out, the wheel liner indentations plugged to clean up matters here besides. Moving along, a pair of steering column/steering wheel assemblies were combined to isolate the soft steering wheel rim from one, while the other had its honeycomb center trim cap ground off and flat, the spokes from this same steering wheel drilled through with a pin vise before the now-separate rim was (temporarily) joined to it. Less stress on the steering wheel spokes, a cleaner finish across the hub center was made possible, while greater flexibility is afforded regarding how things may be painted. Yes - more than one ERTL Firebird has given it's life to the cause of making these modified diecast projects a reality. Given the dashboards can come into contact with the interior door trim and so prevent full closure of doors, some mild reshaping of the pad ends was likewise performed. More invisible work, but nice then to see this example up on wheels. The model is simply wearing a coat of Tamiya White Primer as seen earlier. The '70 Laguna Seca effort will be further sorted to match what's on view here, although each model requires further chassis work hitherto avoided before paint will be applied. Thanks... The door handle mounting holes as well as exterior side mirror mounts/holes were plugged long ago, with separate and distinct chromed Welly '72 Firebird exterior door latches slated to be added. Pity that the Welly rendition is so expensive to source these days... The dog leg hood hinges aren't so impressive, although much has been altered or improved in other ways. Thanks for your review of this project update... Mike K./Swede70 Edited April 18, 2022 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted April 20, 2022 Author Share Posted April 20, 2022 (edited) Greetings, Trying to match whatever work I've done on one iteration before proceeding to another step, here the '70 Laguna Seca sans spoilers entry is similarly up on wheels with all of the interior parts tucked inside. The front lip flares were glued on and subsequently blended in, hence this was a nice uptick in relation to exterior appearance, whereas deliberate sanding and shaping has each more or less matching the bulk of the '70 Mid-Ohio effort even as it would be good to reduce the mass of these still further. Chassis refinements with regards to working up appropriate front and rear sway bars plus links and mounts in addition to the Watt's link installation out back is next up and hopefully something not entailing much risk to what I've performed to date. Thanks for your review of this ongoing project... Certainly the topic looks quite different without all of the Firebird Trans Am-model specific bits... Homologation hiccups witnessed the Trans-Am model specific aerodynamic appendages, fender air extraction vents and shaker hood scoop disallowed at the first race of the '70-season, hence this model reflects hurried team attempts to basically run a standard Firebird at the Laguna Seca, CA event. Hard to grasp from other photos, an attempt has been made to match the opening profile of each standard wheel arch as per period SCCA rules. Mike K./Swede70 Edited April 21, 2022 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 Greetings, Modest stuff in the main, but some reference materials have been isolated consistent with fabricating all that might be required to replicate the Watt's linkage setup, the sway bar installation and shocks/pickup points for the same across the rear suspension on my T/G Firebird projects. Provided below is a current (well - as 'current' as this post!) sale listing of the B.F. Goodrich 'Tirebird' which affords most that a few chassis photos even as it's running a Ford 9 inch rear end not featured in 1970, or rather the season that was. Even as the 1:1 vehicle is currently Chevrolet-powered, no one could doubt that the work performed upon this racer, the photographs and presentation of the topic for sale aren't done to a high standard. Something to bookmark then... https://www.americanmusclecarz.com/vehicles/458/1970-pontiac-firebird-trans-am Dumpster diving into my store of ERTL Firebird spares afforded me enough to find half of a scrap body shell as well as half of a scrap chassis so that I might have a scale engineering hack to work up the aforementioned rear suspension. A plug was fabricated to replace the cast-in pressed steel standard fuel tank detail as before, whereas the fuel cell housing just needed to be accurate enough to capture the dimensions of what I'd worked up before where material would face the rear axle looking forward and to be accurate enough for depth. At this point, I just don't want handle my work up on wheels more than I must if some other means to sort things safely can be found. I do have a 1:18th Hwy. '61 1969 Camaro chassis which reveals beautifully rendered rear shock mounts I hope to integrate here, whereas a 1:18th Yat Ming/Road Legends 1969 Firebird Trans Am was pilfered consistent with isolating it's very nicely captured air cleaner lid profile which can be used on my '70 Laguna Seca effort. Lastly and hardly of huge interest, some further application yields a hitherto missing panel for the driveline tunnel overlay structure as seen below. Thanks for your review of this project update... Mike K./Swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted June 4, 2022 Author Share Posted June 4, 2022 (edited) Greetings... Hoping to work up some extended Minilite wheel lug nuts from plastic hex-shaped stock (very tedious when twenty or forty are needed at a time), provided below is some reference material dating back to communication had with an Indianapolis, IN based firm that had acquired a substantial stock of spares in the wake of the Minilite bankruptcy proceedings years ago - a company and name since revived. What's nice is that illustrations as well as the actual dimensions of lugs sold and employed across series is on offer, hence save these images should they be relevant to your projects in turn. The photocopies date back to the late 1990's at least when I had a 1974 BMW 2002 which then wore period Minilite magnesium alloy wheels. Usually I calculate a loss rate when starting out with hand fabricated lugs, presuming some will fly into space, others won't be drilled accurately, still more won't be properly rounded along one end, etc. Length may be inconsistent, whereas painting each can prove tedious and affords further opportunity for fumbling matters. One can add air valve detail to the rims (situated between the spokes for an SCCA Trans-Am racer lest a valve be torn from a wheel in close contact with another competitor, this leaving the pair of dimples or bosses intended to be drilled on the rim taper uncut), while taped wheel weights secured with duct tape (silver then) is another thing to consider adding. Thanks... Mike K./Swede70 Edited June 4, 2022 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted January 28, 2023 Author Share Posted January 28, 2023 (edited) Greetings... Long stalled on this pair of 1:18th diecast-based projects, very recently I was given an example of what each of the above projects is based upon; i.e. namely a first-issue ERTL '70 1/2 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am in what is intended to be Polar White with the expected tape graphics as per stock. Some might posit that the Welly '72 Firebird constitutes a better starting point for being a more modern tool, and in truth they could build a strong case. Nevertheless, long ago I decided to start here... Worried that certain issues hadn't been addressed or strictly risked with the cumbersome and delicate flared bodies, I thought maybe I could try out certain finish choices and run through the decal application process for quickly working up a third Titus Firebird Trans-Am racer of strictly limited scope. The idea here is to build a bit of confidence for securing the visual 'pop' of applying finishes, alerting myself to certain hazards for taking some chances I'd rather not risk on the two most elaborate builds, and generally telegraph what could be done or reproduced by the reader without strictly reinventing everything. Anyhow - perhaps thin justification for a third same-year Titus Firebird project! With this you may proceed on to my rather poorly-illuminated photo uploads... Note the odd first-generation exterior door latches sometimes seen on the pre-production panel work afforded T/G Racing and employed every now and again on-track. Given the standard ERTL latches are quite terrible, the '72 Welly items both scarce and expensive, here spare GMP Penske Camaro items were substituted in. The 3 Amigos Decals didn't have much surface sheen, hence an application of Mr. Color Clear was applied to brighten things up. The graphics proved color fast, whereas setting solution didn't dissolve the artwork thank heavens. Some finer decals proved a challenge to control, hence a duplicate decal set eased felt tension for affording myself latitude to make a few mistakes. In general and to this point note that I've not removed the chassis or interior, concentrating instead on the visual elements for swapping in a set of resin Minilite wheels (finished in old Model Master Stainless Steel buffing with a light overcoat of Tamiya TS-65 Pearl Clear to suggest a light mag. alloy sparkle) mated to the usual four rear sized GMP Penske Camaro Trans-Am tires. Foil around the front windscreen as well as the rear screen was done with the model all assembled, the stock plastic 'glass' in-place. Color the practice tedious... The over-the-top standard ERTL tampo-printed 'tape' graphics were removed with about a hundred cotton swabs used in combination with a bottle of 100% acetone, with dull sections worked over with NOVUS 2 polishing compound until they looked normal. Decal work represents my first use of the 3 Amigos waterslide decal graphics commissioned long ago, while cutting material out of the hood center stripe/graphic to make room for the shaker hood scoop constituted a big 'What If', or more specifically 'How in the world will I perform THAT?'. I ended up employing a tracing of the hood hole, transferring the same to a plastic sheet template, then I scribed the shape onto the actual decal and delicately removed what needed to be removed prior to using sanding sticks and a coil of sandpaper to clean up the edge of the decal while it remained on the paper backing sheet itself. Not work for the timid! For not stripping the Zamac/white metal body certain disadvantages become apparent only for a close look. The standard ERTL finish is suitably glossy, although the white finish seems to have a touch of gray if not a faint amount of blue in it - something I tried to mix up when a limited effort was made to snap off the exterior rear view 'racing' mirrors, plug the resultant holes, contour the same and touch in what evidence remained. To strip off the paint also allows more attention to be paid to the shape and integrity of the window trim both front and back (a matter then of filing and filling with putty prior to final shaping), whereas on the other two cars I opted to file out the side window opening weather striping and ground the faint rain gutter trim flat. Seen up front are some of my usual resin additions with regards to the head lamp and front indicator fill panels, an attempt to black wash the cowl-area vents on the hood, plus in-situ fender air extractor vent paint. The '72 Welly Pontiac Firebird Trans Am tool is far superior in this regard, featuring separately rendered vents even as I'm clueless with regards to how remove such without damaging them. Yes - the Endura nosecone Firebird is part of the decal set, while the shaker scoop was cleaned up a resprayed Model Master No. 28128 Nassau Blue Metallic - obsolete and no longer available, but desired just the same! Thanks for your review of this ongoing and endless project post... Mike K./Swede70 Edited January 28, 2023 by swede70 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 28, 2023 Share Posted January 28, 2023 It lives! i’m enjoying the Model Master ‘namel paints too can we have a better look at the finish on the wheels ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 28, 2023 Share Posted January 28, 2023 Swede - if you’ve got a kid - borrow his/her i phone and take a closeup shot of those wheels … Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted January 31, 2023 Author Share Posted January 31, 2023 (edited) On 1/27/2023 at 11:08 PM, absmiami said: Swede - if you’ve got a kid - borrow his/her i phone and take a closeup shot of those wheels … My apologies that I can't enlist a kiddo suitably attuned and equipped with better image capture technology to telegraph the finish applied to my resin wheels. Point well-made and taken though; i.e. my experience of the hobby and feedback generated would be enhanced with better gear at my side. - What I could take is seen below - although I'm not sure the very subtle metallic clear overlay would strictly be captured even with the best camera. It's almost as though nothing special is on offer; i.e. the effect more sensed then strictly noticeable for the finish being applied too heavily and risking being too obvious. I haven't yet fashioned extended lugs from hex rod stock as I have in the past, whereas depending on application, so too have I substituted in turned aluminum outer wheel rings to suggest a bare machined surface, inserted hub dust caps or axle end detail, while air valves and wheel weights are other things that can be introduced. The dust or grease cap made out here is just a repurposed cast resin oil breather which is consistent with what one often must do in 1:18th in particular; i.e. improvise, improvise and improvise again... My most current family photo then. I have a lot of models, although far from hundreds. At least with the custom work what I do have becomes personally that much more special, hence having three of what would seem to be the same car isn't really experienced as excess. Faint evidence of where the GMP metal lugs are set helps to guide where replacements can be positioned and glued, although clearly not yet. Probably discussed before (hence forgive me if I repeat), the resin wheels constitute something worked up long ago and formed the first resin casting project undertaken given I wanted many a duplicate for my 1:18th SCCA Trans-Am conversions. The 1:18th GMP 1969 Penske Trans-Am Camaro release came through with an approximation of the Minilite design painted up in yellow with metal lug inserts, although a close examination of the same reveals little in the way of a taper on the outer rim lip and poorly shaped spokes more peg-like as opposed to suggesting almost a waterfall profile to those well familiar with this design feature. Frustrated by this, I decided to hand sculpt my own spokes and substituted in or on a revised outer rim lip with an appropriate taper. The back two-thirds of the GMP wheel was retained, while the wheel spider or center pad was retained after being scrubbed of original spoke detail. Stacked plastic rectangular stock was employed to provide the bulk of each spoke, twelve were formed and the best eight of these were saved and blended into what was recycled from the GMP design. A lot of work in total! Also discernible would be two round pads or bosses that might otherwise be tapped for an air valve if these were wheels to be used on the street, although for racing applications the practice was to relocate any such valve to an area between two of the wheel spokes lest the valve be torn off in close contact with other vehicles and course obstacles. They came out pretty well even if they aren't lathe-turned or 3D-printed, hence I continue to use them. Kind thanks... Mike K./Swede70 Edited January 31, 2023 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swede70 Posted February 7, 2023 Author Share Posted February 7, 2023 (edited) Greetings, Small scale stuff, but a few light additions to relate/report. I'd forgotten to specify that I'd like a T/G Racing emblem included on my 3 Amigos Decal decal sheet - or rather artwork commissioned for such, whereas here a 1:25th Fred Cady waterslide sheet of old was tapped to provide the same atop each front fender side indicator. It appears to me that the Cady effort may have been rendered a touch large, although here on a 1:18th rendition the images look appropriate. Another scarce set was ordered to supply myself with duplicates for the other two 'Birds (four T/G Racing emblems are provided on each sheet then), the effort setting me back about $27... Other additions would include a quartet of cast resin GMP Trans-Am Camaro hood pins, thinned as much as I dared, created in excess numbers trusting a few would be lost for painting hiccups and clumsy handling, etc. Despite worries that they'd prove useless, setting each in place and adhering each with dots of thick CA glue proved very doable and discreet for appearance. Also made out would be R/C aircraft vinyl tape employed to demarcate where pit crew ought to situate a jack prior to lifting the body, the tape proving superior to solid color waterslide material and less labor intensive versus masking and painting the same. R/C tape proved expensive at $16.95 for a roll, albeit now I have a lifetime supply. A dot of black paint inside the recess where a lock cylinder would be found on the deck lid conveys the fact that no such assembly was fit to the T/G Racing Firebird racers. Almost invisible would be some axle end detail inserted into the center of each rear wheel assembly, with dust/grease caps added to the front wheels for good measure. Extended Minilite lug nuts stand to come, albeit not quite yet! A bit tedious, but the rear bumper was removed to facilitate the careful erasure of the license plate installation with Molotow pen disguising what I hope appears untouched for the labor undertaken. Furthermore, a refueling port was added to the quarter panel top on the passenger's side reflecting the configuration of select tracks in-period (trying to mix up things then), with a Hwy. 61 '70 340 Dart affording a fuel cap here given an OEM design was called for by then-current SCCA rules. Light duty stuff in total, but generally fun... Mike K./Swede70 Edited February 7, 2023 by swede70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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