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fiatboy

foil-casting, what brand do you use?

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Hi.  I'd like to try 'foil-casting'.  But what brand, etc. to use?  Thanks.

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Preserving emblems, so they don't get filled in with paint.  Deuces ll, you lay some kind of 'aluminum foil', I don't know what kind, over the emblem and burnish it down.  When done correctly, I'm told, you can then turn the foil over, and fill the cavity in the foil with a substance that will harden.  Then you have a foil-casting, made of this hardened substance.  Then you apply it to the model after it has been painted.  

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I've used the cheap (thin) local grocery store brand for decades.  It also works for making diamond plate like used on fire trucks and big rigs.

A.J.

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Cheap generic stuff. 

Toothpicks and a pencil eraser are your friend in this work, too. B)

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6 hours ago, fiatboy said:

Preserving emblems, so they don't get filled in with paint.  Deuces ll, you lay some kind of 'aluminum foil', I don't know what kind, over the emblem and burnish it down.  When done correctly, I'm told, you can then turn the foil over, and fill the cavity in the foil with a substance that will harden.  Then you have a foil-casting, made of this hardened substance.  Then you apply it to the model after it has been painted.  

The substance to fill the cavity is usually 2-part clear epoxy, like the Bob Smith stuff sold at Hobby Lobby. It hardens in about 5 minutes, but it's best to leave it alone for several hours.  Then you can flip the emblem over and trim it with a very sharp blade. 

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I've never been successful with foil-impression castings . I've tried everything from quick-set two-part clear epoxy to CA glue with baking soda applied soon as the CA glue was instilled --- never a successful casting . I've even tried the UV-light-activated stuff with no luck .

Is there an epoxy that's NOT a two-part compound ? Seems like I mix that type either too hot or too cool . 

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2 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

I've never been successful with foil-impression castings . I've tried everything from quick-set two-part clear epoxy to CA glue with baking soda applied soon as the CA glue was instilled --- never a successful casting . I've even tried the UV-light-activated stuff with no luck .

Is there an epoxy that's NOT a two-part compound ? Seems like I mix that type either too hot or too cool . 

You're not trying to take the foil OFF the casting, are you? :blink:

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6 hours ago, maxwell48098 said:

I've used the cheap (thin) local grocery store brand for decades.  It also works for making diamond plate like used on fire trucks and big rigs.

A.J.

Talk about diamond plate.. Does Evergreen make a 1/25 scale sheet of that stuff????.... I could have sworn, I've seen that before at a hobby shop some years back... I'd love to build a few sets of ramps.... 🙂

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3 hours ago, Snake45 said:

You're not trying to take the foil OFF the casting, are you?

Haha ! No , of course not .

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

I've never been successful with foil-impression castings . I've tried everything from quick-set two-part clear epoxy to CA glue with baking soda applied soon as the CA glue was instilled --- never a successful casting . I've even tried the UV-light-activated stuff with no luck .

Is there an epoxy that's NOT a two-part compound ? Seems like I mix that type either too hot or too cool . 

No, epoxy is by design made with separate resin and hardener.  I'm not sure if I understand your statement. What exactly is the problem for you? 

Edited by peteski

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5 hours ago, peteski said:

What exactly is the problem for you? 

The emblem never comes out properly ; too-shallow ( even though I use cotton swabs to gently-press the foil into the recesses )  , or the glue doesn't properly catalyse ; too fragile , and rip when I'm attempting to trim-away the excess foil . 

I don't know why this ages-old technique has never worked favourably for me . I've tried different epoxies ; I've tried CA glue ; I've tried the UV-activated adhesives ---- nothing .

Last set of emblems I'd attempted were from a 1973-1974 MPC Duster ; I wanted the Duster emblems from the front fenders and the tail lamp panel .  

Is there a 'How To' around here ?

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12 hours ago, Deuces ll said:

Talk about diamond plate.. Does Evergreen make a 1/25 scale sheet of that stuff????.... I could have sworn, I've seen that before at a hobby shop some years back... I'd love to build a few sets of ramps.... 🙂

Evergreen does not show that on their website anymore.  However Plastruct does still make it, although right now their website is under modification, but it is available through other sources.

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3 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

The emblem never comes out properly ; too-shallow ( even though I use cotton swabs to gently-press the foil into the recesses ) 

Wooden toothpicks and a pencil eraser are your friends. B)

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17 hours ago, Deuces ll said:

Talk about diamond plate.. Does Evergreen make a 1/25 scale sheet of that stuff????.... I could have sworn, I've seen that before at a hobby shop some years back... I'd love to build a few sets of ramps.... 🙂

This is what I use:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plastic-Diamond-Pattern-Treadplate-2-pack-by-Don-Mills-Models/311973902045?hash=item48a317f6dd:g:q9gAAMXQfvlSm6XU

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Thank you:  Maxwell; Snake; and '999'.

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Consider using fingernail clippers to trim the outside of the piece

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3 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Wooden toothpicks and a pencil eraser are your friends

Thanks much . I've got both --- I'll attempt the elusive foil-impression badges some day...

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8 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

The emblem never comes out properly ; too-shallow ( even though I use cotton swabs to gently-press the foil into the recesses )  , or the glue doesn't properly catalyse ; too fragile , and rip when I'm attempting to trim-away the excess foil . 

I don't know why this ages-old technique has never worked favourably for me . I've tried different epoxies ; I've tried CA glue ; I've tried the UV-activated adhesives ---- nothing .

Last set of emblems I'd attempted were from a 1973-1974 MPC Duster ; I wanted the Duster emblems from the front fenders and the tail lamp panel .  

Is there a 'How To' around here ?

Secret to epoxy is to mix it *VERY* thoroughly! Very, very thoroughly. I never have problem with epoxy not setting properly.  Mix, mix, mix.  Dod I mention: mix? :)  Seriously.

Mix it on some disposable surface (I  use a piece of masking tape on a flat medicine bottle cap), then after it is mixed, apply to your  emblem.  Apply it very sparingly - just enough to fill the embossed emblem. if you put on too much, gently skim it off, so only the emblem is filled with glue.

And baking soda and CA glue is the worst idea someone ever came up with.  Use the proper thing to harden super glue: CA accelerator. I have tried half a dozen varieties, and BSI (Bob Smith Ind.) accelerator is by far my favorite.  I couldn't build models without it.

Also make sure that the foil is perfectly clean. Same goes fot the model surface where you will be taking the emblem impression.  Of course the more pronounced emblems will reproduce better than the shallow ones.  But the foil needs to be burnished down well in all the crevices (but don't puncture the foil - work it slowly).  No matter what glue you use, the bond to foil is not very strong,so you have to handle and trim it carefully.

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3 minutes ago, peteski said:

Secret to epoxy is to mix it *VERY* thoroughly! Very, very thoroughly. I never have problem with epoxy not setting properly.  Mix, mix, mix.  Dod I mention: mix? :)  Seriously.

I've tried the "fool-proof" ( haha ) epoxies -- the one which exudes equal-portions of catalyst-to-resin -- and still gatz ! 

I know what you mean regarding cleanliness on both surfaces ; that begs the question : would it be beneficial to scuff the to-be-epoxied-side of the foil ? 

Something that seems so elementary and basic is somehow elusive to me ! Haha .

Thanks much , Peter @peteski !

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3 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

I've tried the "fool-proof" ( haha ) epoxies -- the one which exudes equal-portions of catalyst-to-resin -- and still gatz ! 

I know what you mean regarding cleanliness on both surfaces ; that begs the question : would it be beneficial to scuff the to-be-epoxied-side of the foil ? 

Something that seems so elementary and basic is somehow elusive to me ! Haha .

Thanks much , Peter @peteski !

The only explanation I can find for your epoxy failures is insufficient mixing. I can't think of anything else (especially if you use that double-syringe dispenser.  You really need to be diligent in mixing it.  if you don't mix it well enough, some parts will set while others won't.  It really isn't that difficult. Lots of modelers successfully use epoxies. :)

Aluminum foils have shiny and dull side. I suspect you use the shiny side out (for that chrome-look).  The dull side should have enough roughness for the adhesives to adhere to it.  I suppose you could scuff it a bit, but not sure what you'll use not to rip the delicate foil.  Again, this is all very delicate, and the glue will easily separate from the foil.  You need light touch.

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Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, peteski said:

Aluminum foils have shiny and dull side. I suspect you use the shiny side out (for that chrome-look).  The dull side should have enough roughness for the adhesives to adhere to it.  I suppose you could scuff it a bit, but not sure what you'll use not to rip the delicate foil.  Again, this is all very delicate, and the glue will easily separate from the foil.  You need light touch.

I definitely use the shiny-side-out . I was thinking of lightly-scuffing the adhesive-to-be-applied-to-side with an old toothbrush (dry , of course... and completely free of paste , etc. ) .

I'll have to try the 2-part epoxy again . I'm certain at this point that I haven't mixed it enough ---- I suppose that I'm "afraid" of it setting before I get to employ it .

Thanks again .

Edited by 1972coronet

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Whichever side of the foil in on the "inside" has to be scuffed or adhesive will bead up on it. I scuff it with a ScotchBrite pad. Doesn't take long and solves the problem. 0000 steel wool will work, too, but it's hard to clean off all the tiny "shavings" from it. The ScotchBrite is better. 

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15 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

Whichever side of the foil in on the "inside" has to be scuffed or adhesive will bead up on it. I scuff it with a ScotchBrite pad. Doesn't take long and solves the problem. 0000 steel wool will work, too, but it's hard to clean off all the tiny "shavings" from it. The ScotchBrite is better. 

I never encountered epoxy or CA glue beading on aluminum foil.  Sounds like your foil is coated with something that causes beading.  Either way, scuffing it will not hurt.

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