Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

2022 Nextgen Camaro


MarkJ
 Share

Recommended Posts

I know this is going to be mundane for a lot of you guys who have already built these models and are experts at it, but I always do a wip for my builds, so I can look at them later, just for grins.  Just pass over this thread. Nothing to see here except maybe catch an old man in a mistake that you could save me from making. This is my first attempt at one of these. The instructions look very daunting.

 

the kit

ds1.jpg

ds2.jpg

ds3.jpg

Edited by MarkJ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, MarkJ said:

I know this is going to be mundane for a lot of you guys who have already built these models and are experts at it, but I always do a wip for my builds, so I can look at them later, just for grins.  Just pass over this thread. Nothing to see here except maybe catch an old man in a mistake that you could save me from making. This is my first attempt at one of these. The instructions look very daunting.

 

the kit

ds1.jpg

ds2.jpg

ds3.jpg

The kit is actually pretty good. The engineering is decent, not Tamiya quality but on par with Fujimi and Revell. Some of the details are a bit rough and others very good. 

The chassis is a challenge, so go slow, use the instructions cause for the most part they are a good source. My one tip is, and I can't say this enough, make sure you REMOVE all mold lines and make sure the surfaces that get glued together are flat and clean cause the tolerances are extremely minimal. Also make sure to use a thin glue, Tamiya Extra Thin or something similar, especially on the chassis as you there is no room for "thick" glues. The instructions call for using the flooring as a jig, I recommend this too as it will help make sure you have the chassis sections square. And one last thing, test fit, test fit, test fit cause there are mold lines in places that can obstruct glue points so knowing where the parts connect will make sure you get good seals between parts.

Over all, they're decent kits, pretty good for Salvino's first shot at the Next Gen cars. I suspect the Fords and Toyotas will be better in quality and fitment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, Jhedir6 said:

The kit is actually pretty good. The engineering is decent, not Tamiya quality but on par with Fujimi and Revell. Some of the details are a bit rough and others very good. 

The chassis is a challenge, so go slow, use the instructions cause for the most part they are a good source. My one tip is, and I can't say this enough, make sure you REMOVE all mold lines and make sure the surfaces that get glued together are flat and clean cause the tolerances are extremely minimal. Also make sure to use a thin glue, Tamiya Extra Thin or something similar, especially on the chassis as you there is no room for "thick" glues. The instructions call for using the flooring as a jig, I recommend this too as it will help make sure you have the chassis sections square. And one last thing, test fit, test fit, test fit cause there are mold lines in places that can obstruct glue points so knowing where the parts connect will make sure you get good seals between parts.

Over all, they're decent kits, pretty good for Salvino's first shot at the Next Gen cars. I suspect the Fords and Toyotas will be better in quality and fitment.

Thanks, David. I found out about the fitment issues during the first round of assembly on the engine. I'm using a liquid glue that is very thin and seems to be working quite well. Did you paint the engine or just keep it oob?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, MarkJ said:

Thanks, David. I found out about the fitment issues during the first round of assembly on the engine. I'm using a liquid glue that is very thin and seems to be working quite well. Did you paint the engine or just keep it oob?

The kits are molded in colours that are like the real car so those new to the hobby or just NASCAR fans can buy and build them OOB with no paints. Personally I paint everything, or just about. The grey/silver they use in the kits is a decent base for tinting with panel wash. But for the engines I paint them. When you get to the chassis I build mine as one unit. Center, rear then the front. Then put them all together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got all the engine parts painted so hope to get it together tomorrow. I usually like to paint an engine after its completely built but I don't think that is possible with this baby. It's really a cool looking engine. I might have to make some decals for the valve covers if I find out what's on them or if there are decals on the real ones. 

22saur14.jpg

22saur15.jpg

22saur16.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, MarkJ said:

Got all the engine parts painted so hope to get it together tomorrow. I usually like to paint an engine after its completely built but I don't think that is possible with this baby. It's really a cool looking engine. I might have to make some decals for the valve covers if I find out what's on them or if there are decals on the real ones. 

22saur14.jpg

22saur15.jpg

22saur16.jpg

Good start Mark. 

For the engine, here's the decals for the valve covers. They're for the previous gen of car but to the best of my knowledge they didn't change the engine specs, or very minimal if at all, so they should be correct. All the guys on the NASCAR groups are using them still for the Next Gen cars. Has decals for Roush, Hendrick, RCR, Toyota etc.

https://www.mikesdecals.com/engine-goodies-powerslide-p-4086.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, bluestringer said:

Engine looks good. I have 2 of these kits, the roll out and a Chase Elliot Napa. I've been putting off starting one because the instructions do look daunting. I'll be following your build. 

It's not that bad, there are lots of videos and posts on FB on these kits if you need help. Here's Clay Kemp's video on building the chassis. If you don't know Clay's work, he's one of the best at NASCAR modeling. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Watched the video. I missed why he used the .080 rods instead of the kit pieces. Wow, Clay is such a machine when it comes to putting these models together. It's simply amazing how smooth every move he makes during assembly. Everyone needs to watch this video to see the master at work.

Edited by MarkJ
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, MarkJ said:

Watched the video. I missed why he used the 0.80 rods instead of the kit pieces. Wow, Clay is such a machine when it comes to putting these models together. It's simply amazing how smooth every move he makes during assembly. Everyone needs to watch this video to see the master at work.

The rods he used replaced a couple in the kit that are a bit warped on some peoples kits. Also I think he added in a couple bars that aren't included in the kit. There are a few details left out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Jhedir6 said:

The rods he used replaced a couple in the kit that are a bit warped on some peoples kits. Also I think he added in a couple bars that aren't included in the kit. There are a few details left out.

Thanks, David. I think I will stick to the instructions on this one. I did like that he pointed out the fit issues with the firewall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I skipped over direction section 2 because its wheels and tires and I need to prime and paint them first. I finished direction section 3. I cut off those 2 boxes that Clay recommended be done and will paint and add them later. I have found that I need three arms and hands to put this model together. 2 hands to hold the parts together and one to apply the glue.

22saur20.jpg

22saur21.jpg

22saur22.jpg

22saur23.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, Jonathan said:

I am enjoying watching your progress.   I've been thinking about buying this kit. :)

Thanks, Jonathan. You won't be disappointed if you do. It's a fine kit so far for me other than the body roof Moulding that doesn't extend far enough and the drive shaft that is too short, but you really can't see the driveshaft after its built, so it doesn't really matter. Just put a drop of glue between it and the floor to make sure it doesn't rattle. Instruction #11 is a little sketchy, so I need to find a picture of the completed front suspension for some help on that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...