Front wheel pins

[ksnow]

I broke one of the wheel pins for the front wheels on the AMT 66 Nova wagon kit. I have racked my brain trying to come up with an easy fix, but am having no luck. I could rob one form another kit, but that still leaves me short a pin eventually. Any good ideas for a replacement? 

[Mittagskind]

2 hours ago, ksnow said:

I broke one of the wheel pins for the front wheels on the AMT 66 Nova wagon kit. I have racked my brain trying to come up with an easy fix, but am having no luck. I could rob one form another kit, but that still leaves me short a pin eventually. Any good ideas for a replacement? 

Drill into the location of the broken bolt and glue in a pin of the same size?!

[ksnow]

I did think about that, but am concerned that it won't be square to the frame, resulting in a crooked wheel. I suppose I could leave the fit a bit loose, on the pin to the wheel, and block the wheel square and glue during final install.

[Shark]

I don't know the configuration of the pin you are talking about, but I drill out the hole like mentioned and use aluminum or brass rod for the pin. You can bend it after it is secure.

[NOBLNG]

6 hours ago, ksnow said:

I did think about that, but am concerned that it won't be square to the frame, resulting in a crooked wheel. I suppose I could leave the fit a bit loose, on the pin to the wheel, and block the wheel square and glue during final install.

That’s what I do when jury rigging different wheels onto a model...or even the proper kit wheels. Pin them loosely, use 5 minute epoxy and block them straight and plumb until set. And I don’t want my models to roll anyway.

Edited September 28, 2023 by NOBLNG

[Bills72sj]

I skip the the pins altogether. And simply glue the wheel backs to the chassis bits. I do not want mine to roll either and STANCE IS EVERYTHING.

[ksnow]

Thanks guys. I think I'll put a pin into the wheel itself, then epoxy that into the chassis during assembly.

[bobss396]

I like the pin idea myself. I have used CA glue, but sometimes it sets up in a few seconds. I did a front axle replacement on a '62 Ford kit, I used short pieces of 1/16" aluminum tubing. I did not want the axle thru the oil pan look. Mine are still not secured.

[Skip]

The method that I have used for a long time is to replace the axle pin altogether with a 2-56 Allen Head screw and sometimes the appropriate washer. I start with a 2-56 X 1/2" Allen head screw, drill the hole in the pin location, which in most cases is just about the same, or slightly smaller. Next thread the 2-56 Allen head screw through the hole. Measure the needed length, mark and trim as required. Once the screw is trimmed and threaded back into the axle pin location set the screw in place with a dab of JB Weld on the backside. It only takes a tiny amount. Thread the wheel-back onto the 2-56 screw threads and Bob's Yer Uncle, done with a stable axle pin replacement. 2-56 Stainless Allen Head Screws are readily available on eBay for cheap, (I think it's the same size that Hot Wheels Customizers use to replace their chassis rivets. You could also use a 2-56 Cap Screw as well to get additional stability from the wider screw head.

I have used this method on Ancient Screw Bottom chassis, Straight Axles - Recently the V8-60 chrome front axle on an AMT '25 T after seeing Dave Darby's Article in issue #221, AMT 60 Ranchero chassis, AMT 64 El Camino & Chevelle Wagon chassis, 60 Ford F-100 chassis and many other AMT chassis.  It works especially well on the "Axle through the Block" type chassis, eliminates the nasty hole in the block and oil pan, your engine swap selection is greater. Totally eliminates those pesky oil leaks from the huge hole in the block onto your display shelf...  LoL!!

[ksnow]

Thank you Skip, that sounds like a great solution. 

[bobss396]

I have a lot of small hardware like 0-80 and 2-56 and it comes in handy. A 2-56 screw measures up at .086" nominal, an 0-80 is .060".