mademan Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 money isnt an issue, I just need a good sealer. problem is that im the middle of no where canada.... cant get anything around here, and its a pain in the butt to ship it here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mademan Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 back again with problems, this time a tamiya kit here are the steps used open kit wash all parts with dawn and luke warm water dry with white paper towl let air dry clean up mold lines wash again duplicolor primer duplicolor sealer primer ( 2 coats) duplicolor primer ( light coat) wetsand/let dry light coat of duplicolor color match nissan orange 2 medium coats waited about 20minutes 1 final coat after about an hour I went back to find this: what is causing this? I was told before that it was a reaction to different types of paint ( this is all the same product line and brand) I was told it was from not washing, but I believe that this is the actual plastic melting..... which shouldnt happen with the sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 I had this happen on all the lindberg police charger kits I built, 6 of them, but I was using krylon primer, and thats why Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
route66modeler Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 I think you should send the body you painted to revell with your detailed process of painted and request a new body from them. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 IMHO your reducer or thinner in your color coats is so hot, it's re-wetting all of your basecoats and, as you say, it really looks to me like it's soaking ALL the way through and melting the plastic substrate. The swirl pattern at the front of the door is what makes me think that, and I'd be pretty ticked if it was happening to me. Can you use a not-so-hot reducer or thinner for your color? Since it's a model and won't be subjected to UV and real-car weathering, you can often get away with non-recommended color coat reducers. If that doesn't work, my best guess is that a 2K urethane or polyester automotive surfacer is going to be the only way out. Once 2Ks are fully hard, they're pretty well resistant to any topcoats. They are also high build, and tend to obliterate detail. Just as an aside, I recently built two Revell '70 Chevelles, same tooling, different releases and plastics. The older blue one, no prob. The recent white one.....when I hit the chassis with rattle can (aircraft engine) ENAMEL that I've used successfully on MANY models, it crazed like crazy. It DIDN'T craze the scratch-built styrene roll cage attached to it, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mademan Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 I cant control the reducer in this color in particular as it was a rattle can touch up paint. I was using 1k filler primer before and it was working alright, but it reacted with House of Kolor that I was airbrushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mademan Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 ALright, so just as a test, I took a scrap body that was laying here ( 2012 corvette zr-1) and sprayed it with the same orange duplicolor paint..... no primer, no sealer, no prep or washing of any sorts..... layed down perfectly and no issues...... now im really confused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Duplicolor paint does this to me no matter how I have prepped or not prepped the body, no matter what brand the kit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 fat brian, you and me think alike...thats EXACTLY what i was going to say. try tamiya paints, especially their primers. yes they are expensive. so is therapy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 ALright, so just as a test, I took a scrap body that was laying here ( 2012 corvette zr-1) and sprayed it with the same orange duplicolor paint..... no primer, no sealer, no prep or washing of any sorts..... layed down perfectly and no issues...... now im really confused. Well, logic would pretty much say it HAS to be different plastic formulations then. Maybe several kit manufacturers tried something "newer, better, cheaper", and you're stuck dealing with the results. It sounds like Revell has gone back to something more solvent-resistant. I have NOT YET used Duplicolor COLOR over Duplicolor PRIMER, but I know many people swear it works fine, every time. I'm looking forward (yeah, right) to experimenting in the near future, 'cause I've got a build almost to paint that I can only get the color I want from the big D. I've had outstanding results from Duplicolor primer under everything Testors. Ace Hardware's rattlecan black lacquer is hot enough to go through the D. primer and pull up or shrink bodywork, but with enough coats and final colorsanding, it will slick out fine. There was a time I was having pretty good luck with SEM High Build primers, and their Self Etching primers, but I've had very erratic results lately, sometimes crazing insanely, sometimes not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mademan Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 fat brian, you and me think alike...thats EXACTLY what i was going to say. try tamiya paints, especially their primers. yes they are expensive. so is therapy. price doesnt concern me, but tamiya has a "boring" color lineup. at least what is available locally. I wanted Nissan orange...... which is why i picked up the color match paint. as far as I can see tamiya doesnt make that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Have you seen the Testors one coat paints, they have a fiery orange and a flaming orange that might get you better results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Cole Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Mike, are you really throwing away bodies that you had problems with? Why not just strip the paint off, and start over? You are not alone, plenty of us have to repaint. Also wondering if you use a dehydrator between paints? At least you would know the substrate was 100% cured before topcoating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest G Holding Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 (edited) open kit wash all parts with dawn and luke warm water dry with white paper towl let air dry clean up mold lines wash again duplicolor primer duplicolor sealer primer ( 2 coats) duplicolor primer ( light coat) wetsand/let dry light coat of duplicolor color match nissan orange 2 medium coats waited about 20minutes 1 final coat If all the paint was done the same day....too fast for that much duplacolor.I let the wetsanded body cure for 3 to 5 days before starting color and I do clear in the same session as the color, follow the label on the can for recoat times. Edited July 15, 2012 by G Holding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluemiles22 Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 I've used the hok stuff too over dupli color primer and had good results. The first time however I completely destroyed the plastic by putting too much paint on. Just mist your coats on and let them flash before spraying another. I usually wait about 15 minutes between coats. It's time consuming so I've gone back to enamels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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