Mike Chernecki Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 I was looking online to buy one of the Hasegawa 1958 Ferreri Testa Rossa kits. I found that there were several versions released; some say le mans some don't. I have seen box art in ŕed, white, black. Anyone know the difference between these kits? Is it just a change of decals? Is there different detail levels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niteowl7710 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 I was looking online to buy one of the Hasegawa 1958 Ferreri Testa Rossa kits. I found that there were several versions released; some say le mans some don't. I have seen box art in ŕed, white, black. Anyone know the difference between these kits? Is it just a change of decals? Is there different detail levels? The three most recent reissues of the kit are the black "Chassis No. 0714TR", which is a replica of the 2nd of the thirty-four 250 Testa Rossas built. As such it has a few different options (specifically related to brake cooling) of that particular car and comes with 5 different liveries, three of which are U.S. based races as this chassis wound up in the U.S. in 1959. The white car marked "1958 Le Mans" is a replica of just that, the 1958 Le Mans winning Testa Rossa. It also has decals for 4 other 1958 Le Mans entries (Ferrari entered 10 Testa Rossas in the '58 Le Mans), as well as the markings of the winning "1000km of Buenos Aires" car. This one tends to be the most expensive as it comes with a sheet of photo etch from KA Models in the box. The red box art car is representative of a "street" version of the Testa Rossa if you want to call it that. I believe it's based of the Ralph Lauren collection car, or one very close to it. It's just plain red and doesn't include any of the other kits racing livery decals. It also tends to be the easiest one to find, I'm pretty sure one of my LHS has one on the shelf still. If you want to compare the instructions side by side you can check them out on Hobby Search - http://www.1999.co.jp/search_e.asp?Typ1_c=112&scope=1&scope2=0&itkey=hasegawa+testa+rossa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonoPed Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 The red "street car" kit does have a full decal sheet in it, but no call outs on the instruction sheet or any info on which cars the decals represent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 Thanks for the info. Just ordered the black car and full detail kit with turned aluminum wheels, injectors, etc. Anyone know where to get the HRM engine kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 historicracingminiatures@comcast.net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 historicracingminiatures@comcast.net Thanks Marcos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Do make sure to get Harold's engine, it's the perfect one for the kit.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 is that the build that was featured in the mag a few months ago? very very nice. jb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 Can the fenders be attached and painted with the body? Or do they need to be attached after , leaving the seam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaymcminn Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) Can the fenders be attached and painted with the body? Or do they need to be attached after , leaving the seam? They absolutely can (and probably should) be attached before painting the body so you can fill the seam. I did it on mine. I think the choice to mold the inner fenders separately had more to do with the complexity of the shape than any assembly issues, as mine went together without a hitch with them in place. Note that I did leave the seam at the vent on the body side- this actually was a separate piece on the real cars and was often painted black. Edited July 7, 2014 by jaymcminn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 They absolutely can (and probably should) be attached before painting the body so you can fill the seam. I did it on mine. I think the choice to mold the inner fenders separately had more to do with the complexity of the shape than any assembly issues, as mine went together without a hitch with them in place. Note that I did leave the seam at the vent on the body side- this actually was a separate piece on the real cars and was often painted black. Thanks for the tip. And that is one gorgeous build you have. Awesome color combination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonoPed Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Very nice build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaymcminn Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Thanks for the tip. And that is one gorgeous build you have. Awesome color combination.Thanks, Mike. I was going for sort of a street-driven former race car vibe, and I wanted the paint to have an early sixties custom look to it. You'll love this kit. It's probably the best engineered kit I've ever built. Aside from a PE detail set (KA Models, I think), the Hasegawa wire wheel set, and engine wiring, it's pretty much stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share Posted July 10, 2014 Do make sure to get Harold's engine, it's the perfect one for the kit.... Thanks again Marcos, I talked to Harold Bradford yesterday and have an engine kit on the way. What a nice guy and pleasure to do business with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Thanks again Marcos, I talked to Harold Bradford yesterday and have an engine kit on the way. What a nice guy and pleasure to do business with. He is the best!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keyser Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 (edited) Brad's motors are awesome as were Norm's. The white TR is 0732 Lucybelle II. Well documented car, friends owned it many years ago, was second Ferrari I ever rode in. Now is the first of 3 pontoon-fendered TR's I've been in, drove 0742 ex-Bardinon, and 0718 ex Chizar now Stroll too. The white car Lucybelle II did NOT win the 58 LeMans. Phil Hill won that in 0728, which was the only non-prototype non-pontoon fendered 58 (0704TR was similar, but was 500TRC based second prototype). It was part of a trade to Bardinon in 3 car deal with Dick Merritt for 0742 and ex-Rodriguez 246 0784 in '81-82. The red car is likely 0734 Ex-Gibbs/Pappalardo now Lauren. The black car is 0714TR, sold for 9M euros in '10 IIRC Here's 0728 Hill/Gendebien 58 LM winner at Goodwood recently. Had private sale for $24M in '12. A steal, actually. Refs, some owners incorrect, some timelines a bit off. e.g. 0732TR spent time in JP http://www.barchetta.cc/english/all.ferraris/detail/0732tr.250tr.htm White car http://www.barchetta.cc/english/all.ferraris/detail/0728tr.250tr.htm http://www.barchetta.cc/english/all.ferraris/detail/0714tr.250tr.htm Black car http://www.barchetta.cc/english/All.Ferraris/Detail/0734TR.250TR.htm Red car Lauren. Also, 0714 was the 4th TR built. 0666TR was first prototype with removable nose, like 0710TR. 0704TR was TRC based but was a TR, and it shared the non-pontoon nose with 0728TR the 58 LM winner. Edited July 10, 2014 by keyser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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