Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

1967 Chevelle SS (On hold for the moment)


Stray

Recommended Posts

Morning Stray, I like the color your going with. As for me, when I work with Tamiya acrylics, to get it to mix- dry- and look right out of the air brush, I always start with mixing the tamiya acrylic 50/50 with denatured alohol, then I apply one or two mist costs, allowing it to dry for about 10 minutes between coats, then I do one medium coat, allow it to dry for another 10 or 15 minutes then a good wet coat. I never have a problem with fisheye with it. I used to when using tamiya or testors acrylic thinner, but never have with denatured alohol that you can get from any hardware store. I still get my share of orange peel but it wet sands out pretty easy after a couple days of gassing out. I also very seldom sand between coats, I usually just do my paint then after 24 hours, I do a my clear coats the same way I do my color coat. Once everything including the clear has gassed out for 2 or 3 days then I wet sand and plosh out with a good hobby wet sanding finishing kit that most hobby stores carry, an then polish with Novus 2.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jim! Is there any concerns with the denaturated alcohol causing delamination? Is it compatible with the acrylic top coat clears from auto spray cans?

If you saw the box I use to paint in you would scream... it is why I have so much crud flying around lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Jim! Is there any concerns with the denaturated alcohol causing delamination? Is it compatible with the acrylic top coat clears from auto spray cans?

If you saw the box I use to paint in you would scream... it is why I have so much crud flying around lol.

As for delamination, havent had it cause me that problem. As for being campatible, why not just use Tamiya's acrylic clear since your using their paint, and it mixes the same as their paint does.

I don't use a paint booth either, I just paint in my open room on a stand.. yup lots of fumes during painting, (thats what a mask is for) and overspray everywhere, but thats what I built this room in my garage for anyways, it's a mess just the way a working mans room should be lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WELL...

I did what I did. I painted the body, left it for a couple days. Painted the clear and left that for three days.

I started the finishing. Began with the 3200 grit in the finishing kit I bought. Keeping the pads wet while rubbing. Used them as recommended. And two days later I have found cracks AGAIN! I am thinking I am just plain cursed.

This is pretty silly when you think that I am an airbrush artist and can't even get a decent paintjob on a model car lol :blink:

Here's a few pics of the crackage.

post-15265-0-05054000-1432131219_thumb.j

post-15265-0-33957800-1432131241_thumb.j

post-15265-0-01866000-1432131268_thumb.j

post-15265-0-76547200-1432131289_thumb.j

post-15265-0-26249600-1432131311_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Greg what are you using for clear coat? Are you using automotive acrylic clear over Tamiya acrylic paints? If so, it may be what is causing it. Some atomotive acrylics dry faster and harder than tamiya acrylics. Aside from that, the only other time I've seen that probem is when I was polishing out a body, I flexed it too much, as I was handling it, during the wet sanding process, causing the paint to crack, but that was usually only in areas where the body could flex alot. If it's a compatibility issue between the tamiya acrylic color coats and a non-tamiya acrylic clear, you can always try clearing it with tamiya acrylic clear the next go round and it should work out fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Jim. I am using a automotive acrylic rattle can clear. Has not been an issue when using it on other stuff.

I am going to strip her AGAIN. But I am gonna be shifting house in a few weeks so this build is going to have to be put on hold for now. When I get set up again I will strip and prep and paint again. This time I will just do primer, one colour, clear. Something simple! I think I have done enough work on the rest of her to let the build die completely.

So until then I will tinker with the '50 pickup.

Thanks for all the follows and look-ins and props and advice folks. I will resurrect this thread when I start the body again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the pits mate, but what was the common denominator in the 2 paint jobs? I layer my automotive clear on pretty thick, including having it go milky, and usually only 5 mins after the base coat has dried, and NEVER had it crack

on me like that, the only time i had an issue, was a bad can of primer. If it goes milky i hold it under the spot light till it clears up, then throw more paint at it again, this method works

on new kits and ones that have been painted a few times before. The only other think i can think of is mixing brands? I only use automotive primer, automotive acrylic base colors, and acrylic clear and pearls aswell.

GOOD LUCK next time around mate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies folks.

I think it is down to technique. I will try again soon!

I do use auto rattlecan primer and clear. And my AutoAir paints are compatible because I have used them on bikes and cars and aluminium panels etc. It has been getting cooler at night5 now that winter is coming (No game of Thrones reference intended :))

Live and learn...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man Greg. devil%20and%20balloon_zps60xye84u.gif If this were mine I'd let the paint gas out for 7-10 days the next go round. You've come too far to turn back. Hang in there bud. We're all cheerin' for you!!

agree. perhaps the time between your basic paint and clear cote isn't long enough. I had the same problem couple weeks ago. i figured out, that the several layers of clear cote was to fast successively. though. take your time for the paintjob.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I feel your pain, just had to put my 66 chevelle in the pond, ugh, all because I had an orange spot ( smaller than a pin head, but on pale yellow, it really stood out) on the roof, tried to paint the roof again and just made a mess, so, I will try again.

We are in the same boat, lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...