blunc

I find most battery cables in real life are about the same size as fuel line, the main difference will be that fuel line is usually silver in color (unless it's high pressure fuel injection flexible hose) and battery cables can be whatever you want as long as they don't appear silver or copper colored but are commonly red for the positive side of the battery (if it makes any difference to you) and black for the other connection. some cars came with negative cables that had no insulation and looked like braided line that had been smashed flat so silver color would be okay for those. this assuming you care to make it look like real cars look.

um, needs 2 centrifugal compressors ..no wait...4 compressors feeding 2 blowers but the centrifugal compressors are fed by turbos and then we put stage 3 laughing gas direct injected to each intake runner and a couple JATO units in case none of the above get it to move.

I think it was an option from the late 40's to early 50's.

that helps, thanx. any possibility of Ford auto trans being cast out there?

I have the phaeton version, looks like it has the th-350 or one of the newer metric gm trans, haven't taken the time to pin it down but that's not important anyway since I just want some additional auto trans to update some other projects with. I also need some ford auto trans for a mustang project.

this sounds more like a "kitbash" rather than a scratchbuild. it's easier to work with already created basic shapes than to make your own from flat stock (unless your handle is kennb )

I have a few future projects that I will need auto transmissions for but most of the kits I'm working with all have manual trans. I'm looking for anyone selling 1/16 typical GM and FOMOCO auto trans to replace the manual trans on my upcoming projects. I have one kit that comes with an auto trans, I will cast it myself if I have to.

I don't have their names memorized but if you scan through the Under Glass thread for cobra models I'm sure you will run across at least 2 builders (probably more) that can give you some tips on how to tweak your cobra back into proper shape. I have seen some amazing replicas and custom cobras in that thread. remember, it's just plastic and can usually be glued back together.

the Italia was another one of those cars that was ahead of it's time (IMHO), nice to see this creation.

the tailshaft on the transmission seems to be sitting a little high and may cause other fit problems when you go to assemble to frame to the interior/body. see if you can find some photos on the internet of some cobra frames to use as a reference as to how it should look. we have a few cobra experts here that can help also.

we won't flog you very much for putting a chevy engine into a Mustang but try to keep that stuff to a minimum. (just kidding) welcome aboard, we all start somewhere...I haven't seen anyone that starts out as an expert model builder yet.

wow, all that with only one ceramic wheel, my hat's off to you sir! my father had a red/white 2dr wagon when I was a lot younger, I sure would like to have it now instead of the 96 buick wagon I have now.

well, at least the value of my spare jag kit won't be going down very soon.

any 1/25 car filled with C4 will be the fastest car but it will go to pieces doing it.

I think I have one of those that I probly won't build, I think it's a revell kit. nah, I was wrong, it's a monogram 1/48 b17g

Keep at it Niko, you can see what I did to a 67 Galaxy on post#46 of the What If thread, I did that with Paintshop Pro x ver.4 Once you get used to working with layers it gets kind of fun. Layers let you try out a change that lets you just kill the layer if you don't like what you just tried. I was using about 5 layers on the 67 galaxy before I was satisfied with it and merged all visible layers.

there are a lot of variables regarding that question, like how much will you be using the airbrush, what pressure will you have your airbrush set to, viscosity of your paint materials, how much air you actually put into the tank based on what it's rated for... but I think there are a few people here that can give you a ballpark idea.

another option to Bill's ratchet idea would be using magnets hidden inside the cowling/firewall in a similar fashion that some model builders use magnets to keep doors closed once they have opened and hinged them. using a paper clip instead of brass rod would give the magnet something to hold onto.

no brochures of my first car either, 57 Ford Town Victoria 4dr hardtop. man that thing rattled when going over bumpy roads.

really outstanding carb detail work here, it looks like Mr. O may have spent some intimate time with real carbs to even know how and where to put some of his details. I don't think I've ever seen anyone detail the Rochesters on that 348/409 in that way (which happens to be correct based on what I've seen of real tri-power setups). Cruz has some equally amazing detail work also.

Here's a couple Holleys I put on top of a hi-rise, I may rework the throttle cable...it's a little kludgey. I cut these from the top of a Monogram intake manifold that had them cast on top, then reshaped them till they looked more like Holley carbs with manual secondaries.

that is a real purdy Carter/Edelbrock AFB (stands for Aluminum Four Barrel...so I've been told) and could easily be painted/detailed to look like a Thermoquad.

I use Evergreen for most of my modification/scratchbuilding whenever I'm making modifications in plastic.

reverse engineering is what the soviets did with a B29 superfortress, they disassembled it then copied each part and made their own version.

yeah...think of what he could do with a fish... or a loaf of bread