blunc

that looks like a very expensive fail, I'm sure it seemed like a good idea at the time but they chose a bad way to stretch a vette (which probly should never be stretched anyway).

are ya gonna fix the passenger side wing or replace it? I'm guessing that's why the grill is having fit problems.

Semper FI to all past, present and future Marines. All you other services try to keep up the good work... (just kidding )

you could mount some lakes pipe exhaust as long as you made sure it was below the bottom door sill otherwise the driver would have to climb in through the windows. great work on this build, a little side discussion regarding this style of suspension. While the "underslung" was a viable automotive suspension variation there were some inherant issues with the design that may have contributed to it's extinction. With the axles mounted atop the springs, all the vehicle load was placed on the spring/axle mounting bolts, stress (were hardened bolts in use back then?) and rust prevention would be big problems (IMHO). When the spring/axle mounts failed then the car frame would be laying on the ground and not going anywhere. The more popular design (which we all know and love) with the axles under the springs placed the vehicle load weight at the springs and spring to frame mounts and even if these failed the axle would still be under the frame and not have the frame on the ground.

I think there needs to be a "What If?" CBP thread now... no time limit of course since there's no telling how long it will take to make some of the "special" versions of automotive icons.

They seem to have captured Anne Hathaway's form fairly well on that Catwoman figure.

whenever I see ridiculous prices for "auction items" I usually just say to myself that they really don't want to sell that item... I mean asking $349 for a custom painted 1:18 scale diecast that is a caricature of a real car just seems like a pointless auction posting.

they look like the cibie lights that Barris put on a few of his 60's / 70's customs.

in other news... uncle potts has a pron-star mustache.

here is a link to tweezers, I use this brand professionally and they're worth the cost to get them. I have several of the cobaltima line, they're great for doing work through a microscope. http://www.excelta.com/product_categories/tweezers-forceps

1. I joined the USMC of my own free will, they taught me how to build things and blow them up. 2. R.A. Heinlein is my favorite author.

that is a nice engine to start with but I have to find a decent source for auto trans for pontiac blocks, I had a 68 bird with a short shaft turbo400 and most pontiac kit engines only come with 4sp manual.

57 Ford Town Victoria, 4dr hdtp (my first car). Saved it from a wrecking yard, rubbed out the factory black enamel till it was shiny...unfortunately since it was an Arizona car the interior and weather stripping was all shot before I got it and it had sat through two of Arizona's 100-year floods so there was some rust in the floor.

I seem to recall there was a small block 400 and a big block 400(but the big block was really a 402), I don't think there were any other SB/BB chevy V8 blocks, I bet somemone with more knowledge than I will clarify further.

holy thread necro Batman.... this thread went silent almost three years ago. I wonder if this project has reached production phase.

really liking the detailing you've done to the engine.<br /><br />one "rivet" to bring up and it's not something you've done...<br /><br />that distributor cap is about twice as tall as real caps are, don't know what the designers were working from but it looks like they never saw the distributor caps that are on the 1:1 cars.

beautiful detail work, I'll be following this build.

it's dark, the moon is up and it's 83deg.

isn't this what The Incredible Hulk says? the "not so Incredible Hulk" just has regular fries...

that's not rust, thats extreme fiberglas oxidation.

probly cheaper than a fancy paint job.

costumes/costume props IMG_0914 by blunc1, on Flickr

I would advise against trying to glue an extension to the button on the switch since any excess glue will foul the switch and make it useless. A free floating extension that contacts/presses the momentary switch is better (IMHO), this is similar to how most computer CD/DVD open/close buttons are configured. (you can rob these switches from old electronics, some even have miniature on/off pcb mount switches). regarding the legs/solder lugs, some are 2 separate on/off circuits and some have 2 legs per contact side for extra current capacity but most of the time it's just for more secure mounting to the circuit board.

I like pie.

yeah, that Corgi. I never had any Corgi toys, always Matchbox or Hot Wheels.