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Big Scale Dreams has some 3-D printed parts for 1/8 scale . (and other scales). You might try www.rocketfin.com/modelcarslist also. They have other sites listed for big scale models. Be careful though, it's easy to get caught up in that site. LOL Happy modeling Jim

you should look up Chris Chapman on u tube. he has lots of how-to vidios using craft paints. everything from glossy to rusting and weathering

I really like the looks of that JF body and if you want to do weathered wood go back to June of 2014 on this site and look for a post by bplecher55 (how to make plastic look like weathered wood). I think it is a a great how-to.

Thanks for the replies. The work you guys posted is great. I was also trying to do Beswik's car and that's why I was looking for that article. I thought I rembered he said what colors he used. Thanks again for your replies.

I think I remember an article in one of the model magazines about painting the tri-color interior of the '62 Pontiac. I'm sure I have that magazine but it would take me a week or two to find it and I would probably be distracted by another article along the way. Could anyone point me to which magazine and which issue had this article, ( if I'm not making it up in my head). THA

The 2015 catalog that I have list the" B-11 1/25th go cart kit-45 pcs.(from AMT '63 ford P/U KIT)...........$44.00 "

Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland has a small block Ford duel four barrel carbs, intake, and air cleaners for $6.95 ( in their 2014 catalog). I've used one but I can't say that it looks exactly like that one.

Replicas & Miniatures has Holly Blue fuel pumps. Two to a package. Part #-SDR-6001. (2014 price was 1.95)

Forgive me if this has been brought up before. I got the Dec. issue of Model Cars at my lhs yesterday and there were three different places with overprinting on the pages. It looks like printed two different pages on the same page. Most of the words can be read it you try hard but there were some places where the overlap was just too dense. I only checked two magazines so I don't know if they were all like that. I wonder if they will make good on the bad ones.

I'm building another Revell '32 roadster and I'm using Rep & Min's duel 4 barrel induction. I'd like to put fuel lines on it but it doesn't have a fuel pump that I can see. Am I missing something or does it not have any? I checked round 2's '67 mustang and the 289 has a nice looking pump on the front cover, would the 302 in the roadster be the same? TIA

I'm building another '32 roadster and I would like to plumb it a little bit. I don't see a fuel pump on the small block Ford. Would the 289 in the '67 Mustang look like the 302 in the kit? I'm using the duel 4-barrel set-up from Rep & Min. if it makes any difference.

Can anyone confirm that the frame is longer on the C-600 city delivery than is on the stake truck?

Yes Casey, that's the picture that got me started. I've got the trailer and the mustang and the torino. '69 was the only year that Car magazine gave their high proformance award to a team instead of a single car and the C-850 (according to the article) was included in the award. I'm not a contest builder but I like to get things close to what is right. Things like the headers and wheels paint and decals. Also the recently reisued C-600 city delivery truck must have a longer frame than the stake truck because Tim A said that with just a litle repositioning of things like the fuel tanks and widening of the hauler body to fit over the frame, it should be real close. The artical that I read also said that they used '69 BOSS side stripes. So, as I collect parts and information I feel that I'm getting closer to a start.

Thanks A C. I was afraid that would be the answer because I sold my AMT Torino and kept my Revell '70 Torino. I also have the Revell '69 Super CJ Mustang, is that the same as the Mach I ?

I'm, considering replicating the '69/70 Ford drag team with the Ford car hauler. Which kits would require the least modification and/or kit bashing for the cars. I'm sure some of you will say that the hauler was made with the Ford C cab and you would be right. I have the sleeper cab by Hendricks and Tim's great information in the MC magazine.

I want to thank all of you for the effort you put into this for me. I have the Budweiser decals for this and I thought that a hi-dollor sponsor would opt for this but after looking at the Ford drag team haulers, I see that they didn't have them. So I might just leave it off of this build. I'm also going to do a C-cab hauler with an after-market hauler body. With the great pictures Aaron got, I think I'll just have to put it on that one.

Thank you very much for your reply. That answer seems very complete to me. The A C box on the roof, would the two lines exit from the back or the bottom of the unit and would they just hang over the back of the cab? Also, could I just substitute the one from the 359 kit,(would it be as correct as the one in the Ford kit)?

I have some questions about the cab on the Ford car-hauler. What kind of radio is it that fits to the roof of the interior, (C.B. or AM-FM) and what would you use for a radio face or dials? Also, the roof mounted air conditioner has "legs" on the botom of it, How is the air supposed to get to the cab that way? Last and not really important to me but if you were building it, would you fill in between the cab shell and the interior? Thanks

I got some at Hobby Lobby. I have .05 and .005 and one other.

there's anotlher Grumpy's Toy post in this section that give more information on details of the build like painting the motor, making a deep sump oil pan and painting the gas tank bright white. I haven't started mine yet. I'm waiting for more post with more information.

maybe you guys know this but Rocketfin Hobbies.com is like the shopping mall of all things plastic model related.

I hope I'm not too late with this information but according to the magazine Elaplsed Times, Bill painted his engins flat black to "encourage heat radition". He removed the blades from the alernator fan to reduce parasitic power loss. The stock rules required a battery in the original location so Jenkins used the lightest, smallest import battery he could find. He also used a homebuilt "cool can" made out of a coffee can with coiled tubing filed with ice, (the picture shows it just to the right of the radiator shroud). The interior shows an aftemarket tachometer, a couple of gauges and no roll bar. He used a three speed shifter (it looks like a T-handeled shifter) with an auxiliary lever for reverse. Good luck and I'm going to keep watching this build too.

Hey guys, while you're talking about the wood you want to use, How about a couple of sugestions for staining. Soy sauce and India ink have both been sugested in the model magazines. Test and play around with them. If the color isn't dark enough, dip them again. Just thought I'd pass that along.

thanks for the quick reply--------now back to the glueing

I got mine last week too. I started to glue things together but I have some questions. 1) is there a specific color to match "Cat" yellow or do I have to get a can from an outside source? 2) I assume that most of the chrome has to be stripped from the engine parts. 3) I would like to run fuel lines to the injector, how would this be done? any help in these areas would be much appreciated I'll probably have more questions later and I can't think of a better place to ask.