Quick GMC
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Posts posted by Quick GMC
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Just curious. I'm a little bummed they don't make he newer style pickup trucks. I have an 06 Sierra, different front end than the Chevy, and both of those changed in 03. So 99-07 had 3 different front ends. Now there's the newest body style. The F150 is a big one too, not to mention as a Chevy and Ford guy, the new Ram trucks are sexy.
Sprinter vans, work trucks etc,
Molds are very expensive, no doubt. I would think they would do one or two though. Just curious what percentage of people would buy these up?
also, I can't wait until the first order-anything-you-want 3D-print-per-order model company comes out. Order up your make and model, have in printed and off you go.
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Forgive me for saying this, but the wheels/tires look a bit too big. The entire build is awesome though. The hood turned out great.
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I also use a Grex and love it. I use about 28 lb. of pressure and the number 3 tip. Your primer has to be smooth. I use 3600 polishing cloth . Paint should be the consistency of 2 percent milk. i only use lacquer paints. A trick i use is to spray 876 lacquer thinner as the last coat. If you have a problem email or pm me. You have to have patience and practice. If you can join a club do it. Go to shows - ask questions that is how i started .
Hope this helps. Castrol Super Clean can be your best friend when you are starting out.
Bob
Bob's Paint, etc.
This is why it's so frustrating. I sand my primer. I sand my paint. Clear is still textured. I tried 12 psi, 30 psi, .3mm, .5mm no thinner, little thinner, a lot of thinner.
I'm going to order some Scale finishes soon. I'm hoping the enamel will be better as it will have more time to settle out into a flat finish before hardening, like the lacquer.
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I think the difference, at least what it appears to me, is that Alclad has the reflection of chrome, but not the brightness, if that makes sense. I can see myself in a piece that is sprayed with Alclad, but when in the sun, chrome will have those blinding, glaring bright spots where the sun hits. Alclad will shine, have a reflection, but not the brightness or glare you get from chrome
does that make sense? I think I confused myself.
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I haven't noticed any hood fitment issues.
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For one, posts like this probably don't help...
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1. Alclad is tough on the finish, but a lot of handling and it will rub off. Handling with latex gloves will eliminate any issues.
2. Backside of razor blade, but I sand it with a coarse sanding stick first. Make a super sharp point that won't run off the line.
3. Still trying to figure this one out.
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I am building it now. the body is really nice. The top half of the engine is terrible. The tires are slicks. I drilled out the holes in the wheels, they look much better now. There is a ton of flash and a lot of parts prep. Other than that it seems to be nice. I have the body painted and parts washed, ready for paint. I'll post a WIP when I have a bit more done.
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I took the 5.0 out of this to use for my 93 Cobra. Cone K&N style intake, FORD logo'd trans pan, logo's intake manifold etc. It's a great parts car or builder
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Thank you. I haven't tried this low/close yet, but I was inevitably working my way down there. I will try it as soon as I get some time. Thanks for posting that.
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Maybe you guys from outside the US can work a deal. Have a forum member buy the paint for you, and then they ship the paint to you.
I would be careful though. There is a reason they don't allow the shipping. You'd have to check it out first. Don't want people trying to help out getting nailed for shipping HazMat products.
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If I have to brush paint a part, but have it turn out nice with no brush marks, I use Tamiya acrylic. I thin it so it flows a bit, then I lay on one wet brush coat in one smooth motion. going back over it will ruin it. If you do it just right, it will be nice and wet and smooth. I think multiple brush strokes is what makes it obvious.
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as far as cure times: get a dehydrator and set it in there a couple hours and call it good.
Been putting this off for a while, but I think now it's time. Need to have all the angles covered, or I'm about to go insane. For each finished paintjob I have, there is 3-5 hours of sanding, 2-3 trips to a container of brake fluid, my wife yelling at me for leaving the brake fluid next to the kitchen sink and me losing it when one of my dogs almost gets a hold of model parts when I leave the door open during my trips back and forth to the kitchen. My fun hobby is driving me up a wall. I'm not giving up though. One day I will paint something that doesn't need sanding, and then I will take a giant nap.
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Not relevant, but if this bothers you, be glad you don't live in CA. The shops are using water soluble paint, not by choice. There was even talk of banning black paint on new cars a couple years back, because "they absorb too much heat, requiring you to run your A/C more, resulting in more carbon emissions". The people in charge should be riding the short bus.
The allowance on chemical container sizes varies from county to county in Southern Ca, with San Diego basically dictating the entire country. You can'r buy certain chemicals in liters anymore, but they're okay in quarts. Can't buy them in gallons, but 4 quart is fine. I think I'm dumber now after just typing this out.
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I don't know the answers to those questions since I'll be trying the stuff out for the first time myself, but from what I know about Jameson and his reputation I'd be willing to bet he'd mix up paint for you with high-temp reducer. But since this sale is for the stuff he was going to take to GSL I guess you'd have to take what you can get at the sale price.
Thanks, I will email him. I don't mind paying the full price if it's good stuff, which it appears to be.
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First of all, I'm not looking for a debate about which is "better". It all comes down to user preference and technique, IMO.
What I am looking for is a little help from the more experienced painters. This is long and boring so bear with me.
1. I suck at painting bodies. Partly because I suck (ok, mostly), but I think partly because I'm not using the right stuff.
2. My issue: grainy, sandy paint, or thick, orange peeled paint.
I started out with a Dual Action Paasche siphon feed and a Badger compressor (the cheap $50 one without a power switch). Over the years I have ALMOST completed a bunch of models, but always put them away because I destroy the bodies. I almost quit and sold everything because of this, but I am determined to get this figured out.
Over the last couple of years, the airbrush has been getting worse. I actually have two of the same. Both were getting worse. Lumpier paint, more inconsistent atomizing etc. I was convinced it was the compressor not being able to keep up. I replaced the compressor with a GREX compressor. Identical problems.
I asked around on the internet for a while and everyone had a theory, but no solid help. Finally, the RC helicopter guy at the hobby shop overheard me and said Paasche has seals that will deteriorate with lacquer thinner, which is what I use to clean and thin. This makes total sense. Slow deterioration and increasingly poor performance over the years.
I replaced with it with a GREX, which my wife was totally not okay with.
So now I have a brand new Grex airbrush and matching compressor. MUCH better, but at the same time I have the same problem. The first was just adjustment. Going from a horrible siphon feed, under powered setup to a nice gravity feed, efficient system was a bit to get used to. After I played with it a bit, I got better. I was able to get a fairly nice coat of Zero down, however it still had to be sanded. I cannot find that sweet spot. It's either too thick and wet and I get orange peel, or too dry and I get a grainy, hard texture.
It is hot where i live. Winter is in the 60's, summer is 105-115 (and up). I have a homemade paint booth with t a vent fan for the fumes, but it is next to a window, on the side of the house that the sun hits during the day. This is not likely to change anytime soon.
I hate enamel with a passion. I hate waiting for things to dry, however I am more than happy to use it if it will help.
after all that, my question is will an enamel work better for me than a lacquer? When I use Zero, I can touch it within 30 seconds and it's dry. I sand it within 40 minutes. I know enamels will take at least a week or so before I can touch it, but EVERY paint job I am doing right now is getting sanded from 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 before polishing, not to mention the same deal with the clear. I don't mind sanding and polishing, but it's taking the fun out of it and I am jealous of all these nice, wet paint jobs I am seeing on here.
Thanks for your time.
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How long does their enamel take to dry?
I have problems with my Zero pain dry too quickly. I know it's a pressure/volume thing, but I'm coming up on the summer, where it will rarely be below 105. I typically can't paint in the summer. I am down to 15 PSI and I can't get a nice creamy layer. It's either bumpy from low pressure, or grainy because it's drying to fast before it hits the car
would switching to an enamel benefit me a bit more? I'm thinking it will be less sensitive and I'd be able to lay down a nice wet coat.
Also, I suck at clearcoating more. I like the idea of polishing the pain itself instead trying to get the paint just right, THEN a clearcoat just right.
I'd love to try this new paint, just looking for feedback.
Last question. Would I be able to use Tamiya Clear over their enamel, or what clear would I be able to use? For clearcoating decals after paint.
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This is impressive. Awesome.
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I'm sorry, that guy got ripped off. Nothing there is worth $300k
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I haven't used Testors spray cans in years for this reason . I know a lot of guys like them, but I have had several bodies ruined with extreme orange peel and sputtering. My cans were new, ordered from them by the hobby shop and picked up when delivered.
I stick with Tamiya, or airbrush, which I'm terrible at anyway, but I don't need any help being bad.
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I think roughing up the tires on the tread a little bit would make a huge difference. Shiny tires always take away from the realism for me. It is a very clean build though.
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I'm lucky, everyone I know thinks building models is nerdy and for kids. I have been trying to get someone to buy a kit for me, so I can build it for them. I get bored of trying to think of my own projects and have more motivation when I do it for someone else.
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Tell them to F-off. Seems like you let the conversation go for far too long.
If they would spend as much time learning how to build as they do bothering you, they could have had a model of their stupid car already.
what kind of work do you do? Is it something they could cover for you? Have them do all your work for two weeks while you sit home and build, and hone your skills on their model.
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This is just a thought and I have no idea when it would happen if it does.
I got my hands on some extra parts from the Tony Foti Camaro and some other very similar kits. I have 3 perfectly good engine assemblies and transmissions, and one engine with the tranny cut off. 2 of the assemblies have Lenco trannies, and the 3rd has another automatic looking one, not sure which kit it is from.
Since the one engine already has most of the tranny cut off, that will be my "engine". I will sacrifice one of the engines from the Lenco setups to separate the tranny. I then plan on shaving off all molded in bolt detail and replacing with real hardware from Scale Hardware.
so when I am done, I will have one original assembly, one detailed engine by itself and two detailed transmissions by themselves. One Lenco and one of the others.
I figured if I went through all this trouble and it turned out decent, they should be casted and offered to other builders. I have no interest in making money off this, that will be up to the caster. I would just want my original back.
thoughts?
mom and pop vs. big hobby shop
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
Luckily, the only place in town is a mom and pop. One of the guys that works there is a friend of mine. His uncle owned Hobby Town. The local shop was terrible, terrible employees, stocked all the wrong things, etc. Friend's uncle closes Hobby Town and moves back to Tennesse where he has another store. Friend takes off to Hawaii for 5 years and I'm stuck with this crappy place or the internet. Friend comes back, gets job at local shop, they fire one guy and hire a couple more, the owner gets a lot of good input from his new employees. business ramps up, more good stuff in stock and they end up growing out of their unit. Now they are double the size, ALWAYS busy with great employees. I feel very lucky. I will happily pay more and drive over there to buy anything they can get. While I believe it was the employees were significantly responsible for their knowledge of what people want, it takes a good business owner to take input from his employees and allow them to control and adjust inventory. The owner is a train specialist, they have one dedicated flight guy, two very knowledgeable rc car guys and a couple others that are pretty good all around. Sometimes I get to tell them what models to stock, some of the frequent locals can just walk behind the counter, grab what they need, install it on their car then pay. it's a great feeling place.