Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Quick GMC

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,788

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Quick GMC

    Sale at Scale Finishes $5 dollar paint( ends on 5-13)

    in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)

    Posted

    as far as cure times: get a dehydrator and set it in there a couple hours and call it good.

    Been putting this off for a while, but I think now it's time. Need to have all the angles covered, or I'm about to go insane. For each finished paintjob I have, there is 3-5 hours of sanding, 2-3 trips to a container of brake fluid, my wife yelling at me for leaving the brake fluid next to the kitchen sink and me losing it when one of my dogs almost gets a hold of model parts when I leave the door open during my trips back and forth to the kitchen. My fun hobby is driving me up a wall. I'm not giving up though. One day I will paint something that doesn't need sanding, and then I will take a giant nap.

    Revell's plastic crazing under Duplicolor...anyone else seeing this?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    Not relevant, but if this bothers you, be glad you don't live in CA. The shops are using water soluble paint, not by choice. There was even talk of banning black paint on new cars a couple years back, because "they absorb too much heat, requiring you to run your A/C more, resulting in more carbon emissions". The people in charge should be riding the short bus.

    The allowance on chemical container sizes varies from county to county in Southern Ca, with San Diego basically dictating the entire country. You can'r buy certain chemicals in liters anymore, but they're okay in quarts. Can't buy them in gallons, but 4 quart is fine. I think I'm dumber now after just typing this out.

    Sale at Scale Finishes $5 dollar paint( ends on 5-13)

    in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)

    Posted

    I don't know the answers to those questions since I'll be trying the stuff out for the first time myself, but from what I know about Jameson and his reputation I'd be willing to bet he'd mix up paint for you with high-temp reducer. But since this sale is for the stuff he was going to take to GSL I guess you'd have to take what you can get at the sale price.

    Thanks, I will email him. I don't mind paying the full price if it's good stuff, which it appears to be.

    Lacquer VS. Enamel OR Zero VS. Scale Finishes

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    First of all, I'm not looking for a debate about which is "better". It all comes down to user preference and technique, IMO.

    What I am looking for is a little help from the more experienced painters. This is long and boring so bear with me.

    1. I suck at painting bodies. Partly because I suck (ok, mostly), but I think partly because I'm not using the right stuff.

    2. My issue: grainy, sandy paint, or thick, orange peeled paint.

    I started out with a Dual Action Paasche siphon feed and a Badger compressor (the cheap $50 one without a power switch). Over the years I have ALMOST completed a bunch of models, but always put them away because I destroy the bodies. I almost quit and sold everything because of this, but I am determined to get this figured out.

    Over the last couple of years, the airbrush has been getting worse. I actually have two of the same. Both were getting worse. Lumpier paint, more inconsistent atomizing etc. I was convinced it was the compressor not being able to keep up. I replaced the compressor with a GREX compressor. Identical problems.

    I asked around on the internet for a while and everyone had a theory, but no solid help. Finally, the RC helicopter guy at the hobby shop overheard me and said Paasche has seals that will deteriorate with lacquer thinner, which is what I use to clean and thin. This makes total sense. Slow deterioration and increasingly poor performance over the years.

    I replaced with it with a GREX, which my wife was totally not okay with.

    So now I have a brand new Grex airbrush and matching compressor. MUCH better, but at the same time I have the same problem. The first was just adjustment. Going from a horrible siphon feed, under powered setup to a nice gravity feed, efficient system was a bit to get used to. After I played with it a bit, I got better. I was able to get a fairly nice coat of Zero down, however it still had to be sanded. I cannot find that sweet spot. It's either too thick and wet and I get orange peel, or too dry and I get a grainy, hard texture.

    It is hot where i live. Winter is in the 60's, summer is 105-115 (and up). I have a homemade paint booth with t a vent fan for the fumes, but it is next to a window, on the side of the house that the sun hits during the day. This is not likely to change anytime soon.

    I hate enamel with a passion. I hate waiting for things to dry, however I am more than happy to use it if it will help.

    after all that, my question is will an enamel work better for me than a lacquer? When I use Zero, I can touch it within 30 seconds and it's dry. I sand it within 40 minutes. I know enamels will take at least a week or so before I can touch it, but EVERY paint job I am doing right now is getting sanded from 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 before polishing, not to mention the same deal with the clear. I don't mind sanding and polishing, but it's taking the fun out of it and I am jealous of all these nice, wet paint jobs I am seeing on here.

    Thanks for your time.

    Sale at Scale Finishes $5 dollar paint( ends on 5-13)

    in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)

    Posted · Edited by Quick GMC

    How long does their enamel take to dry?

    I have problems with my Zero pain dry too quickly. I know it's a pressure/volume thing, but I'm coming up on the summer, where it will rarely be below 105. I typically can't paint in the summer. I am down to 15 PSI and I can't get a nice creamy layer. It's either bumpy from low pressure, or grainy because it's drying to fast before it hits the car

    would switching to an enamel benefit me a bit more? I'm thinking it will be less sensitive and I'd be able to lay down a nice wet coat.

    Also, I suck at clearcoating more. I like the idea of polishing the pain itself instead trying to get the paint just right, THEN a clearcoat just right.

    I'd love to try this new paint, just looking for feedback.

    Last question. Would I be able to use Tamiya Clear over their enamel, or what clear would I be able to use? For clearcoating decals after paint.

    just ruined my paint with clear?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    I haven't used Testors spray cans in years for this reason . I know a lot of guys like them, but I have had several bodies ruined with extreme orange peel and sputtering. My cans were new, ordered from them by the hobby shop and picked up when delivered.

    I stick with Tamiya, or airbrush, which I'm terrible at anyway, but I don't need any help being bad.

    Dealing with "build me this" folks

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted · Edited by Quick GMC

    Tell them to F-off. Seems like you let the conversation go for far too long.

    If they would spend as much time learning how to build as they do bothering you, they could have had a model of their stupid car already.

    what kind of work do you do? Is it something they could cover for you? Have them do all your work for two weeks while you sit home and build, and hone your skills on their model.

    Any casters on here looking for new stuff?

    in Model Building Questions and Answers

    Posted

    This is just a thought and I have no idea when it would happen if it does.

    I got my hands on some extra parts from the Tony Foti Camaro and some other very similar kits. I have 3 perfectly good engine assemblies and transmissions, and one engine with the tranny cut off. 2 of the assemblies have Lenco trannies, and the 3rd has another automatic looking one, not sure which kit it is from.

    Since the one engine already has most of the tranny cut off, that will be my "engine". I will sacrifice one of the engines from the Lenco setups to separate the tranny. I then plan on shaving off all molded in bolt detail and replacing with real hardware from Scale Hardware.

    so when I am done, I will have one original assembly, one detailed engine by itself and two detailed transmissions by themselves. One Lenco and one of the others.

    I figured if I went through all this trouble and it turned out decent, they should be casted and offered to other builders. I have no interest in making money off this, that will be up to the caster. I would just want my original back.

    thoughts?

    Great Traders List

    in Trading Post

    Posted

    IMSANUT (Jim)

    Jim was very patient in my delays and was a very generous trader. Highly recommended.



    Doobie (Dave)

    Dave is in England, but my parts got here very quickly. Great communication and very easy to work with. Highly recommended.

    iBorg. Just received my package with bonus parts. Very good communication, great trade. I am extremely pleased, thank you.

    Pro Touring Wheels (Long)

    in WIP: Model Cars

    Posted

    I'm having a hard time with my own vehicle. I'm a fan of smaller wheels with some meat on them, but there is no denying bigger wheels/thinner tires (to a point) provide better handling and a more stable platform. I may end up putting 20" wheels on my truck instead of the 17's I had planned, simply for the handling, not to mention the 20's are lighter than the 17's I have. As long as a balance is achieved, it looks good. Anything larger than 20" wheels is purely for looks IMO

    Just 5 cars

    in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)

    Posted

    Here is my 5. It's hard to pick only 5 and every day it might change except the first 2... I will say that with the upcoming Mustang Notch back release and the Fujimi Pantera that filled (2) of my wished from what would have been last years list.

    1). 1967 Ford Galaxie. We soooo need this in scale.

    2). Jaguar XKE. An all new tool...coupe or convertible (though if I had to pick it;d be the coupe).

    Now for me, from here on the list is subject to change :) LOL

    3). 32 Ford Tudor chopped and Zframed.

    You know I think Revell has a real winner with the 1949 Merc...for all of us who wanted a chopped coupe but could never do one, that was perfect. I'm thinking the same idea with a chopped and lowered 32 ford. Could release several body versions on the same frame and engine...

    4). 1968 Mustang California Special.

    Amy I right ? I mean who doesn't want that right ? hahaha

    5). A corrected Revell 1969 Mustang

    Here is the thing...that's already a good kit. Actually a great building kit but the nose is just WRONG. The key to this is they really only have to redo the nose since that's all a separate piece. Since the 69 fake side scoops are already a separate piece, they could cast another piece that would make it flat like the Boss 302. So from that tool all they have most of the parts to make a Boss 302 version. New 302 engine new non Mach 1 dash and interior...and you have a 302. Yeah I know you'd have to fill in the gaps on the body to make the 302. but most of today's market is an adult builder right ? Anyway...that's #5. For today anyway :).

    I think you're supposed to pick real cars.

×
×
  • Create New...