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Posts posted by Quick GMC
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Looks good without chrome.
This gives me an idea, maybe an 80's themed Nova. Black with fluorescent pink, yellow and green
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They are extremely soft paints when dry, so yes they will rub off. I always use gloves when handling stuff, so much better. you can handle stuff sooner too, the oils from your skin don't rub off.
They also have a metalizer sealer.
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my 1/12 57 Chevy I am building is going to be very expensive. Based on the engine and tranny, I estimate the cost of completion to be at least $500, maybe $700-$800 if I get into machined wheels and stuff. i also expect it to take at least 500 hours. so far it's been ongoing for 4 years, I'm trying to spread it out.
my 1/24, if I go with photo etched, a new paint color for that car, about $50-$100 depending on the brand of kit.
I haven't bought stuff in a while though. I'd like to but I've had to back off. trying to fix up the house.
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If you build it up enough, you can sand and polish with micro mesh to a mirror shine. It's awesome.
This is from another forum. This is MM Metalizer stainless steel polished with micromesh and buffed out
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I've had a knocking sound for a few weeks. Started out sounding like a lifter tick. Then it sounded like a mild low end knock, but was intermittent, so I knew it wasn't a rod. Pulled the tranny and found my flex plate cracked
Have the new one already, going back together tomorrow.
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I'd love to see more. It looks great. The chassis is really well done
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Thanks for the comments so far. Yes that rear stance bothered me from the day I built It, just didn't care to do anything about it at the time, it was just a box, stock build. That and scratch building a new front suspension will be the only extreme modifications. The plans from here is to add more detail (wiring, linkage, fluid lines, disc brakes and some interior work) bringing it to a more realistic level.
I need some honest feedback on the paint job though.
It's a beautiful color Purple gold flake. I polished the hood and it came out beautiful. During the re-build I won't have to cut into the body at all. But do you think I should.
Leave it alone?
Add some graphics?
Complete re-paint?
Normally I really don't like flake paints on models, but because it's a bigger scale the flake looks good and even though I hate purple, it suits the car well. If anything, maybe sand it ultra smooth and clear coat it to give it more depth?
I would stick with the paint, it fits.
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So much better with the wheels tucked in
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dry brush or marker. Either way, hold it 90 degrees to the surface you are painting. Sometimes you will only get a tiny bit at a time. Keep going over it gently untill it build up on the lettering. I like to use the part of the brush closes to the handle, it's more firm and won't want to flex down into the low spots.
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where did you get it and how much did it run?
I got it at my hobby shop. They retail for $210. I got a little discount, I've known the guys there for 10 years.
It's very touchy. Not finicky, just very precise. it's a whole new feeling you have to get used to.
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You can sand Metallizer and polish out to a mirror finish as well.
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might not look like much but it sure does sound like a perfect sleeper
I will be doing exterior mods later. Lowering another 2", color matched door and tailgate handles, 17" billet wheels, mild cowl hood.
Kind of like this:
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Duplicolor Engine Enamel, i forget the name of the red. I'll check when I get home.
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I don't understand why they don't release these kits again, unless the molds are gone or something.
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That I don't know for sure.
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do those go for high dollar amounts or normal 1/16 prices? I'd love to the IROC or Firebird.
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are you using a primer?
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Love that color. I still haven't picked up one of these kits, I have no idea when I would ever get around to building it.
That turned out awesome.
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Last week, but brand new Grex TRG
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Doesn't look like much
Mods:
Completly gutted and rebuilt 4L60E-
•Billet output shaft
•Transgo HD2 shift kit
•Sonnax pinless billet accumulators
•Sonnax billet 2nd and 4th gear servos
•GM 5 pinion planets
•Borg Warner High Energy frictions
•hardened or strengthened everything else.
•Yank 3,000 stall converter
- PCM tune from Nelson performance in texas
- Headers
- Intake
- Exhaust
- Drop shackles
Next up: custom Edlebrock cam and LS2 instake from Trailblazer SS
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I added a little weathering on the valve covers.
Tranny was painted with Duplicolor engine enamel Cast Iron, then weathered with a wash and Tamiya weathering powders.
Next up I might mess with the ride height a little. I have started drilling the holes and preparing the rear end.
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The exhaust manifolds were painted using a two part kit from Michael's. It's an iron oxide paint, then you brush on an oxidizer, wrap in saran wrap and leave it overnight. The manifolds are covered in actual rust, not simulated paint.
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RB Motion spark plugs with porcelain part painted white
Fulie top end assembly
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This is another I am working on. It's on the engine and trans assembly so far, but since this turned into a model in itself i figured it would be nice to show.
This is the kit that got me back into modelling after I stopped at about 10 years old. All my models were glue bombs and I specifically remember one Countach I put together while eating skittles, so the completed product was quite colorful.
I was trying to find an auto related hobby to replace RC cars as it as becoming way too expensive. I remembered my dad had a couple of old large scale models he saved. I dug out the 57 Chevy and it was the glue bomb from hell. I still have the kit, but i have bought couple more since then.
Here is the Model Car Garage photo etch kit I am going to use
I am also using Scale Hardware and Micro Fasteners to replace pretty much every bolt on the car. I didn't realize how much this was going to cost until I was knee deep, so this is a long term build. All holes were drilled through the center of each molded bolt, then the molded piece shaved off and surfaces sanded flat.
There are over 120 actual fastners on the engine and trans assembly alone, and about 60 hours so far. I'm stuck on the alternator, I'm trying to figure out how to make a metal fan blade because the molded in one isn't going to cut it.
The beginning
Assembly
1/16 inter KB5 twin turbo hilborn injected V10 street legal rig rod
in WIP: Model Trucks: Big Rigs and Heavy Equipment
Posted
I may have missed this, but where are you getting your resin parts?
This is looking killer so far.