yellowsportwagon

I’ve had some like that. Get a new sheet.

Which baremetal you have? I’ve found the ultra bright chrome doesn’t stick well. If it’s old sometimes it doesn’t work so good either

Only a few things left to do now.

I really really like this!!!

That looks really good man

It was tight if I remember right.

That car was the former Lennie Pond Cutlass . It had that color inside when Pond had it. That was the 79 season car. The 80 Daytona winner had a silver interior and chassis

I used the Salvinos engine with the trans from a TBird kit.

Some more progress

This picture and my model are from the National 500. I liked the Gaddy Motor co. Sponsor the best. Only on the car for this race.

Trust me looks better in pictures.

I honestly don’t know what brand they are. I think they may be real old. They look nice but don’t want to stick down. It took two sets to get it done. I’m not a real complainer but they aren’t very good.

Ugh those things!!

A little more done

It’s the cage out of the AMT TBird that the frt clip and rear suspension came from. It has to be narrowed to fit. I also shortened the height and rebuilt the main hoop and added some stuff.

Got the dash board made and chassis pretty much complete.

Electronic ignition modules. If you have a Polar Lights Charger laying around there is a set in that kit

That’s what I thought. That looks good now.

So is that the one pictured with mods. Or is the photo a scratchbuilt one

It spends on the car. On this car the opening was already there. I just made the bottom of it flat like it should be in Juniors Monte Carlos. Look how the filler was on this car

Way better!!

Got some paint on it

If you go easy like others have said it should be ok. The future thing to me seems over rated. If something like winded gets sprayed near it it’ll get messed up. In my house you never know what stupid will happen!?

Ok Larry here is my expertise as an automotive painter. What causes decals to wrinkle? Answer is the paint that is under the decal. When you decal over a enamel or lacquer paint you are putting a solid item(decal) over a product that will move when new solvent hits it. When you clear over the decal the solvents from the clear get into the color coats. They creep under the decal causing the decal to wrinkle. The only foolproof method to clearing over decal I’ve found is this. Prime and paint your model. Allow to dry and put one thin smooth coat of 2k clear over the color. Allow to dry a day or so. Decal and allow to sit overnight. Put one to two more thin smooth coats of 2k clear over you decals. A 2k hardened clear will not allow the solvent creep to occur.As with anything I’m sure if you hose it on like a maniac it could cause trouble. I’ve done this method over decal from Cartograf all the way down to homemade with no failures yet. Over 100 race car builds.