yellowsportwagon

5 min epoxy. If you screw up it peels right off.

That’s how I do it.

It was a purpleish pink. They used factory colors for the most part.

That was Big John Sears car. Chrysler wanted a panther pink car nobody wanted to do it. Big John said if you give me the paint I’ll do it!! So they did.

I am almost positive that Marty’s car was Panther Pink. I know his later cars were. Panther Pink is more of a Magenta color. This car is Panther pink. It photographs weird sometimes look how different it looks in these two pictures

This kit is is a curbside. It also is a hardtop not a sedan. On top of being an LTD not a Galaxie. It looks like this built aside from the rims.

Sweet!!!

That sounds correct.

I don’t pay much attention to Petty stuff. Everybody else does it.

He drove one in 72 for sure

MPC did a Charger. This is a Satellite.

I don’t think so if I remember right

I cut it place it on the car and push it lightly to shape it. Then I let some 5 min epoxy get almost set up . Put a little on the part and stick it on

I tried that once it’s so sticky that if you are a fat clumsy fool like me it screws you up. There’s about no repositioning it if misplaced.

You know those Cheopo aluminum roasting pans? I’ve been cutting the lid of one of those for five years. Thin and very malible. I use it for light covers bumper fairings and other little stuff. Still haven’t used that lid up. A paper punch or leather punch works to make circles out of it too. Cuts with good old fashion scissors.

Forgot about a 427 from a motion Camaro. And I changed the front end from a 71 to a 72. Need to add the rear shocks and rear #s tomorrow.

Mish mosh of old and newer parts. MPC Marlin Monte Carlo body on an AMT Allison Monte chassis with a AMT TBird front stub and truck arms. Custom mixed paint and decals.PPP rims

Looking good man.

Looks like 5 bucks well spent

That rule book shows exactly how a Holman moody car was done. Tubes slipped in the existing rocker panels to tie into the frt stub and rear torque boxes. The stock rear frame rails can be seen in place.

Notice they started with a boxed convertible frame too

This is pretty much correct except the half chassis was pretty much the same 67-71. 72 introduction of the full frame Torino changed the Ford camp completely. I’m not trying to argue with anyone either. All I’m saying is never trust a scribbler. Written history is easily changed due to writers memory or perception. Photos are the best evidence and don’t get things wrong. If you guys want to see a half chassis car the way it was go to Facebook and look at John Crafts restoration of a Bondy Long Torino . Shows it all apart and exactly how they were built.

Exactly but the rear frame rails were still intact. It was modified not fully fabbed. Per the rule books portions of the factory frame were still required into the seventies. Look at how Juniors early Montes were built. Or Bobby Allison’s cars. Modified stock frames. HM frt stubs were allowed on those cars too. Allison preferred frt steer GM based front ends.

I’m sure this is incorrect. A portion of the stock frame had to be in place well into the seventies. The front frame on a half chassis car couldn’t be completely fabbed until 69-70. Not all books are correct. Much has been learned through period photos too. The photos are never wrong.They show it as it really was.

Yep! I cut about 1/8 inch off of them. Cut the shock tower loops off the engine hoop. They need to be modified anyway. Shorten the engine hoop 1/8 inch too. This will move the radiator closer too the fan but it still fits. I did my chassis like most Holman Moody chassis. Black underside and engine compartment. Gray spatter paint on interior floor rear firewall with black dash and cage. My biggest suggestions with these chassis are to remove the two stupid big lugs the steering gear is supposed to sit on. Allows more header room. Glue steering stuff directly to the control arms. The shock towers need to be modified to fit the boss engine. I cut them off each side. Then I slice most of the material away where they mounted to the hoop. So the material is only about 1/64 inch thick. Then glue them into the frame and back to the engine hoop. If this makes sense.