FUSIONBOY

I recently bought the jimmy flintstone concept t/a kit that works with the 06 amt camaro kit. this being my first time working with a resin body I was very impressed with the detail and quality of this moulding. My question is , what precaution do I need to take when sanding the body to remove excess resin and clean up mold lines? I'm working in my den due to the SD winter and don't want to kill the dog or send the kids to a respritory therapist cause dad sanded resin in the house, I have a good 3-m brand dust mask to use, but what about the fall out from sanding in the house? any help is welcome, again this body has me wanting to try more with the resin folks already.

Hey Kris, welcome to the darkside (we have cookies) lol

That looks great!!! I love seeing the 1tons dropped in the weeds like that. There is always at least one shop in any given town that has a lowered dually for thier shop truck/trailer towing rig/ grocerey / beer run truck. my personal favorite are the one's with a 454 and a nice dual exhaust rumble as they come up along side at a stop light. The smoothing also adds very nicely to the look , I never have like style lines on that series of pick-up.

Great build! I like the side by side with the different rims, awsome job on the both of them!.

That was incredible!!!!! that is the koolest way to make a road I have seen. I tried a road using the metal shavings left after turning brakes, Took board for a base, covered road area in elmers/water combo, applied shavings with a sifter. rolled out road with metal ram shaft from a hydrolic cylinder. I over sprayed the whole thing with another wet coat of the elmers mix. next morning I had a 2 ft long rusted road and a nephew asking if it was supposed to do that? hey live and learn right. lucky that rustoleum covers almost anything. Good luck on the drag strip and post some pics when your done.

easy off oven cleaner ( or the cheap$ store ) works good on die-cast , but cars from the same manufacturer can react differently to the process. like Gregg typed ,store brand paint strippers work the best. I used the spay on aircraft stripper from wally, worked almost instantly, did learn not to scub it off while not wearing a shirt. DUHH!. on my part , but it was hot that day. I also have one of the palstic totes , next size up from a shoe box to keep the body in while spaying on the stripper, helps keep the mess to a minimum.

Mopar your repaint looks awsome!!!. I found one of these at wally and the next one I find is getting the saw put to it. all I can see is Clark Grisswold's family truckster when i look at this thing on the shelf. Hey Mopar kid , did you have any problem with the tape pulling off the woodgrain?

Fantastic build, I had 2 of the #39 mpc's built up when the kit came out. Lennie sure got a raw deal with his team, but that's the old who you know and who like's or dislike's you. the question of the tread being correct or not is that the GOODYEAR is ok for the time as it was before the EAGLE series came out , but if you look at old pitstop pictures, the tires are slicks with nothing but the depth holes in the surface

The no decal idea would be great! it would give other companies the job of getting the ok from the big wigs and get us the generic cars that I at least would prefer. also less cost for box art and all the after market companies make the contingancey decals for thier sheets anyway. I have the genetic defect of the oil gene in me , I've been around cars and racing all my life. I was a GM mechanic till I strayed to the heavy equipment field and lost a wrestling match with a 8 ton machine. now I look up and find the parts that keep Toyota's on the road. I just can't stay away from the automotive shops and that is what has always influenced my building tatses.

I am so tired of $$$$$ being the driving force behind everything. The manufactures that charge a kings ransom for using there name on stuff is crazy. how many of the models we wanted to see produced were axed because of the legal garbage the companys have to go through,and the $$$$ required to fill all the hands that are sticking out when some one even mentions that a product is in the pipeline for consideration. sorry but i'm old school when it comes to right and wrong , and I just think it's wrong when a company charges to put thier name on something that is going to be packaged and put on a shelf for all to see, is'nt that free advertising? I would like to say that Mikes decals is a top notch place to deal with, I bought stuff from the web site and everything was handled quickly, and i received the items in good shape and quicker than they said to expect them to show up.

Is there any talk from the model company's about making the COT in kit form? Since the body shapes are all the same and the only diffrences are in the nose, rear cap and engine it should be pretty cost effective.

One last update, 2nd kit opened and it also has the AG brand but only on the left 1/4 panel, same as on the first kit I tried this on. non-acetone remover worked great. To confirm yes it was dumb using the striper w/no shirt on, I did have on glasses, and thick rubber gloves. the spray on stripper i bought came from wally worlds paint section over in the supply section along with gloves and sand paper. Thanks for all the feed back

Well a little update on the removal front. the logo laughed at the alcohol, it all but evaporated on the second swipe of the Q-tip using the non-acetone nail polish remover, also goes to show how long i've been married and how well my wife knows me, i asked if she had any nail polish remover and she told me where it was and no other questions asked, I have told i'm a modelholic and she's my enabler

Thanks for all the feedback, I'm gonna give the 91% alcohol trick a whirl, I use it on my R/C trucks to clean them up. Fantastic paint work on the lincoln, I've stripped metal bodies down with spray on stripper I bought at Wally world and it worked just like in the Ferrari pics. Also learned that You don't scrub the paint off while not wearing a shirt , very painful chemical burns ensue.

I have bought a couple of the "American Graffitti" die-casts at Wal-greens and like the paint job on the car , but not the AG branding they have stuck on the 1/4 panels. any ideas on how to remove the AG logo and not ruin the paint underneath?

Thanks for the imput Bob, sounds like a sweet project ya have going. I did'nt think there would be a big problem as far as fillers working on the body. I had not thought of using styrene for structual parts. I wanted to try to fabricate something like a wide body kit for this project. have you used heat on any of your projects?

Has any one done any body work or body mods on a diecast? how do the body's react to heat and body fillers? can metal be used on them to add body mods? any help would be nice, I have the miatso Pontiac Solstice and would like to add some mods to it or change one into a Saturn Sky.

I have used with different results e-z off oven cleaner or it's cheap dollar store cousin. not as fast as the industrial stripper, but it won't make ya sterile either. i had 1 bad reaction on a stock car body but I think it was from spayng it and needing to do something else and forgetting about it for a few days. it attacked the metal body and required lots of scubbing and sanding to get ready for paint.

WOW :shock: That is a sweet ride,