Olle F

Tenax is not really an adhesive, it's a solvent that dissolves the plastic and makes the parts fuse together. You don't spread it on the parts like you do with for example tube glue, epoxy or CA, as it will usually dry quicker than you can assemble the parts. Just hold the parts together, brush some Tenax on the joint and let the capillary action do the rest. I haven't tried the Plastruct variety, but I believe that it works the same way.

I see you have good taste in movies, sir! Death Race 2000 is actually one of my favorite DVDs, and I believe that it's also one of Sylvester Stallone's first movies (with his clothes on anyway). A true classic! I don't participate in build-offs (unless there's a 2-3 year deadline ), but if there ever has been one that has tempted me, this would be it. I gotta see that movie, the cars look awesome! Build-off or not, I might still build something like that just for fun.

My dad took me to a really neat hobby store when I was a kid. This must have been about 40+ years ago, but there are two things I remember very well: Tons of model kits stacked on shelves from the floor to the ceiling, and a very rude store owner who seemed to think that just walking into the store meant that you had already agreed to buy something. He was anxiously watching every move we made and for each and every model I picked up to look at, he rolled his eyes like I was wearing him out and asked: "OK, so that's the one you want?" I can still remember him hollering as we walked out without buying anything: "WELL, THANK YOU VERY MUCH THEN!" John Cleese couldn't have done it better.

Looks great, just like the other models I have seen coming off your workbench! I dare to say that this is not your first BMF job either, I have build two '62 HT's and I remember that the side trim was a bear to cut nice and straight. Seems like your hands are steadier than mine!

I'd say that most people are just speechless. I have been following this thread since day one, just don't know what to say. Keep on posting, that's an awesome build!

Can you elaborate a bit on the cleanup? I have never really had any luck cleaning up epoxy, other than the cases were I have been able to pop it off by bending or scraping. BTW: You can eliminate the waves by using thicker "glass", if the shape allows it. I used .015 K&S sheets for a rear window quite recently, and there were no signs of waves even if the surfaces weren't 100% smooth. I made channels on the B-pillars, trimmed the window carefully, and it snapped right in. The thick material actually had enough "spring action" to stay securely in place without glue, so I just added a few, small drops of Kristal Klear to make sure that I wouldn't pop it out during the final cleanup.

Oh no... why? If the video doesn't work for you, do this: Format your hard drive, upgrade your RAM and video card, reinstall your OS, then install the latest version of Flash. It will work just fine, I promise!

I'm struggling with an MPC '57 Corvette "flip nose" right now. I have built models since the late '60s, but I believe this is actually the biggest turd I have ever had to deal with. I have already had to remove the side trim, slice the front end in four places and reshape the recesses in the doors to make everything line up, but this SOB it still ain't right. I'm afraid that this post will be deleted if I write what I really think about this kit. But as always: I refuse to let the model win, so I just have to grit my teeth and go on.

47. I missed the 50's by 10 months, and I'm still blaiming my parents for it.

I sent a check to Arrowhead eleven months ago, and have yet to see the parts. Put your money in a Powerball ticket instead.

Yeah, I know. And isn't it great that they're still taking orders when they can't fill one that was paid for ten months ago.

I believe it's made by German Revell, I have never seen it here in the US anyway. http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/inde...mp;filter_id=11

Thanks y'all, glad you liked it! It was a lot of fun to build, and I actually started to build another and even more detailed '61 Chevy "beater" many years ago. I might even finish it one day. Thanks Hasse, I'm really happy that someone remembers my old models! The lettering is a combination of the decals from the kit (some were cut and rearranged a bit) and dry transfers. Unfortunately, I had to leave my models in my parent's house when I moved from Sweden, but I'm hoping that I can bring them over here one day. I just don't know how to do it in a safe way, I might just have to put them in my carry-on next time I go.

I was cleaning up some files on my computer today, and happened to find some pictures of a model I built about 15 years ago. As I don't build much anymore, I thought I could just as well post them to show that I did actually build some back then... This was one of my first attempts to weather a model so there's a lot of things I could have done better, but I sure did enjoy building it and I still hope you'll like it:

I usually cheat and use the calculator in my cell phone... You also need to keep in mind that 1 mm equals 1 scale inch (for 1:25 scale). Many hobby materials will have the metric and standard dimension on the package, so if you're looking for a 2 1/2" exhaust pipe, you simply pick 2.5 mm (or 2.6, 2.4 or whatever closest dimension you can find) tubing. All Evergreen products are marked with the metric dimension, which makes it very easy to pick the right material.

If you just want to make the kit exhaust look better, you can experiment with different shades of metal colors. When I detail an exhaust system, I try to resemble the materials that were used, for example a steel color for the pipes, a dull silver for the galvanized mufflers and a brighter silver for the pipe clamps. Then I give it some wash to bring out the detail. Of course, you'll have to guess a bit on the colors if you don't have good references to go by, but just some variation in color will usually make it look much more realistic. As an example of what it can look like, this is what I did on a Chrysler 300:

No, I just used a heavy coat of paint to smooth out the transition between the insulation and the bare wire. I also used the paint to build up the thickness of the wire, as it was pretty thin to begin with. I can't really remember exactly how I did this, but I believe that I just dipped it in paint and used a fine brush to get rid of the excess.

Cool, I didn't know that they still sold that paint in the stores! Another option would be to use textured paint (like Krylon's "Make it Stone") and then paint it black.

I see... that might be a problem then. One of the essential properties of BMF (and other thin aluminum foils) is that they are pretty flexible, and you can stretch it a bit to conform to the surface. I suspect that a plastic foil won't do that, it will probably wrinkle up and make a big mess. Still: If you have the blanket, why not try it?

I use a piece of wire for the whole dipstick assembly. First, I strip a little bit of the insulation. Then I cut a slice of insulation from a heavier gauge wire, tread it on and superglue it to the wire to resemble the cap on the dipstick. Then I bend the exposed wire as a handle and paint it. You can see what it looks like in this picture:

Considering the fact that I only build one or two models a year, I would say that it doesn't make a difference. Fortunately, I have a very good LHS and a Hobby Lobby just a few minutes from the office, so I don't really use much gas to get there. I just swing by when I go out to eat lunch so it will only cost a few cents in gas. I don't got to many shows either, the only one I go to on a regular basis is in Cookeville, about 30 minutes from the house. Gas prices still such though.

I usually gut pretty much everything before I throw it away, there's a lot of goodies in electronic devices, appliances, power tools etc. The only thing I would never touch is a microwave oven. There is a large capacitor in these, and they can actually store a charge big enough to injure or even kill you. Do yourself a favor and stay away from them!