Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

vamach1

Members
  • Posts

    5,189
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by vamach1

  1. I see Brad about every other month and the shows I have been to he always has a decent stockpile of parts. The issues with the resellers like Island Collectibles is they may not actually have the times and stock and if Brad has run out then IC has to wait for Brad to make them, ship them to IC and and IC to ship them to you. Needless to say this can take longer than buying something on Ebay with a buy-it-now option. I have seriously considered buying out his stock (or a large portion) and sell it on Ebay to reach more buyers and speed up the order to shipping timeframe. Of course all this depends on how fast he can make the product, how much I would want to buy up front, how much markup would I add to cover my cost and time. As others have said, he is a one man operation and fills direct kit orders on an as needed basis. I can ask him what he thinks of my idea. If I go that route, I would probably add some of Norm's R&M stuff too to my "inventory" as he makes some very unique resin stuff as well but he is also a one man operation.

  2. IMHO there isn;t much difference between the AMT and MPC 71-73 kits. Finding one with the correct 71-72 bumper and grille is harder as both kits were updated to the 73 bumper/grille.

    Neither kit has a correct 351C engine or 429CJ/SCJ engine. Keith Marks makes nice decals for these kits. http://www.plazastudios.net/Museum/Keith_Decal_Store.htm

    If you are looking for some detail upgrade parts look no further than here:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/291202162006?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

  3. $45 entry fee so I'm out. $5 for spectators. I'm not sure if I'll do a one day road trip there. One of the themes is the Ford Mustang.

    http://www.ipmsusa2014.com/contest.htm

    V. Automotive
    Factory Stock
    500 All Entries, 1/32 & smaller
    501 1959 & older body, 1/31 to 1/20
    502-A 1960 & newer body, 1/31 to 1/20
    502-B 1960 & newer body, 1/31 to 1/20 Pre-Planned Split IPMS/USA © 2014 National Contest Categories
    All Rights Reserved Page 6 of 7
    Hot Rods, Street Rods, & Street Machines (all scales)
    506 Hot Rods & Street Rods, 1948 & older body, 1/20 & smaller
    507 Street Machine, 1949 to 1972 body, 1/20 & smaller
    508-A Street Machine, 1973 & newer body, 1/20 & smaller
    508-B Street Machine, 1973 & newer body, 1/20 & smaller Pre-Planned Split
    Customs (all scales)
    512 All Entries, 1/20 & smaller
    Competition Vehicles
    516-A Competition, 1/32 & smaller, open-wheels
    516-B Competition, 1/32 & smaller, closed-wheels
    517 Drag Racing, Purpose Built, 1/20 to 1/31
    518 Drag Racing, Modified Street, 1/20 to 1/31
    519 Open Wheel, 1/20 to 1/31
    520 Closed Wheel, 1/20 to 1/31
    Large Scale (except Motorcycles)
    529 All Entries, 1/19 and larger
    Conversions and Scratch-Built
    534 All Entries & scales
    Documented Replicas
    535 All Entries & scales
    Commercial Vehicles
    539 Light commercial (2 axles), 1/20 & smaller
    540 Heavy commercial (3 or more axles), 1/20 & smaller
    Motorcycles
    545 All Entries & scales
    Curbside
    550 All Cars & Trucks, 1/20 & smaller
    Out-of-the-Box
    560 Factory Stock
    564 Hot Rods, Street Rods, Street Machines, & Customs, all scales
    568 Competition, all scales
    Automotive Technology and Culture
    599 All Other Entries, all scales
  4. Did the kit come with any engine compartment decals? Fred Cady did decals for every Ford engine (260, 289, 302, 351, 428, 429) and the caution fan ones too for that extra touch.

    Congrats on the clean build. The Magnum 500's look good and a black wash in the center cap would highlight the running horse in the middle. ;)

    I hate mold lines too but I noticed something you rarely see - the paint markings on the leaf springs and rear end and you have to flip the model over too see them. :P

    Too bad the NOS shocks were black - a different color would really stand out. Check out this restored Boss 302: http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=64188.0

  5. People expect a model (from China no less) to be 100% accurate and not resemble a toy in some ways. Thankfully the aftermarket steps up and makes up for glaring omissions and provides some better parts than the originals if one chooses to "upgrade." The photo etch metal upgrade kits are for those that want to add more details. Of course the modeler can add anything they want and scratch build their own parts too. The kit is not perfect from what I have read but what kit is? Consider the alternative of no kit at all. I have yet to start on mine but when I do will refer back to this fantastic build by Jason. :)

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/KS-1-12-GT40-Super-detail-up-pack-for-Trumpeter-KS00007-/250606669197?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item3a59524d8d

  6. The first driverless Cobra? The wheel can look big compared to the car because the car is small except next to a Mini Cooper. Does it take some muscle to drive the car at low speed - yes. Could I swap the wheel for a smaller one - yes. Do I like mine just the way it is - yes? Do I like the Daytona Coupe parked in front of mine? ;)

    I'd put some sort of steering wheel on it from some kind of Ford but that's me. :D

  7. One of the 427 kits has wire wheels but of course hardly anyone with a real 427 Cobra would drive on the street with them as they could not handle the torque. You typically only see them on a stock 260 or 289 Cobra. Some black wash in the wheels would bring out the spokes.

  8. Love the color. I use bare metal foil to cover the emblems then carefully scrape the paint and foil after the paint has dried for a week. Painting the Cobra and 427 Emblems take a lot of patience but it is doable. I built this one 20 years ago so it is a little dusty.post-13094-0-32803600-1402877179_thumb.j

×
×
  • Create New...