Ragnar

Jarius your chassis looks as good as your paint jobs, Nice Work! CHEERS! Tom

Get yourself an Ungar Handle for screw in elements and an Ungar 33 Iron clad Tip, Some thin guage silver solder, what I use is .055 Dia., You can find the Iron, 33 Element/tip, and the solder at commercial Electronics Web Sites. You will also need a good hot acid flux like the ones sold by welding supply houses, a wet spung made for cleaning your soldering iron tip, and a stand for your iron. Before soldering use an emory board to clean up and score the areas to be soldered, then brush on your flux to these areas just before you put your iron to them, always heat the solder joint and then apply the solder to the joint after it is good and hot. Be careful not to get flux on your skin as it can cause a nasty acid burn, and be carefull with that Iron at over 1000 deg.s F it will melt right throuh fingers, etc,. You want a joint with just enough solder to cover it, and the solder when it hardens should be very shiney, if it isn't you have a cold joint the will break apart. After soldering clean the chassis first with baking soda and a little water to neutralize the acid, and then with warm water and dish detergent. Use this method and practice making good joints, like everything else you need practice to train yourself to solder properly. CHEERS! Tom

Nice Retro Style Chassis. CHEERS! Tom

Nice detailed build series of posts. You do great Work! CHEERS! Tom

Now that is one wild boat tail, it looks just like someone choped it off a small fishing boat. Great Idea, and you are doing Great Work on it! CHEERS! Tom

I would also like to see some photos of the frame for the sedan. They Look great, so keep the photos coming. CHEERS! Tom

CHEERS! Tom

You can buy rolls of the same wire that is sold by the after market suppliers at Radio shack fairly cheap, you can also get heat shrink insulation for plug boots at Radio Shack. If you are doing an early 60s, or fifties Hot Rod, muscle car or Custom get some 20lb test red monofilament to use as fuel lines( the hot setup at that time was red clear fuel lines. Go to GOOGLE and search for the wiring and firing order of the engines you are detailing. The Web is a GREAT resource for all kinds of 1:1 details to use in building Model Cars. CHEERS! Tom

Mark gave a good run down of the glues, as you can see by his post there is no best glue, you should have everyone of the glues he mentions in his post.http://www.modelcargarage.com/ For detail Parts here are the companies I use: Detail Masters http://www.detailmaster.com ;Model Car Garage http://www.modelcargarage.com/ ; The Parts Box http://www.thepartsbox.com/ ;Morgan Automotive Detail http://www.lpstech.com/products.htm ; Scale Modeling By Chris http://www.scalemodelingbychris.com/ ;Fred's Resin Works http://www.fredsresinworkshop.com/ ; and Replicas and Minitures of Maryland( He doesn't have a web site, but he addvertises in the Model Car Magazines, and he is one of the best resources for detail parts there is, He has great 32 ford Chassis with transverse spring setup, Quick change and banjo rear axle/diffrentials, he also is the very best resource for Flatheads, and Flathead detail parts, he also has after market resin early ford bodies, interiors, and too much more to try to list. CHEERS! Tom

I have never used a Harbor Frieght airbrush, but I bought a Compressor from them, it has an excellent regulator, moisture trap, and oilless opperation for under $100.. It is by far a better compressor than the ones sold by the airbrush manufacturers. CHEERS! Tom

I have the same Paashe, all you need to do is disassemble it and let the needle, paint feed, and nosle soak in thinner, for a couple of hours to remove the built up paint. Tou should also run pipe cleaners soaked with thinner through the nozle and paint feed several times until they nolonger show any trace of paint. Your problem can be avoided by making sure you clean all of the paint out of your airbrush after every painting session, this goes for all airbrushes. I have been using the same Paasche VL, and H model airbrushes for almost 40 years. I plan to buy one of the new Paasche Talons in the near future. The IWATA brushes are good and I own one, but I preffer My old Paasche Brushes. CHEERS! Tom