jwrass

Shaun, Looking forward to this one! Great choice, Great start. jwrass

John, Outstanding build!!!! Paint is Killer!!! great job. jwrass

Phil, I got the link Thank you! Opps!!!! I should have proof read my post before I let it fly, I meant to say Dean Jefferies not Larry Watson ( who was a great customizer, painter in his own right) AJ Watson and Larry Watson are two different people. Thanks for the Clarification on the paint count, to paint 22 is a feat in itself. As Art states they would have been show car quality. I was going to mention Foyt's Car. Both of those cars were stunning. Pearls Candies, Engine Turned 24-Karat gold leaf. It would be interesting to know who's car he painted first that started the snow ball. My guess would be the Agajanian car as they were both from So Cal. I stop at the Museum usually the Fri or Sat before the race each year, some great eye candy in those walls. In 2011 ( for the so called 100th anniversary, it was for the first race, but not consecutive race) their were so many cars there it made my head spin. They tried to get all the winners but fell a few short and many were faux cars but it was sure neat to see them all in chronological order and to see the evolution of the cars. Thanks for the tip on the Cotter book, I'll have to check that out. Their are two other books on Indy Cars in my collection that are good they are: Indianapolis Roadsters 1952-1964 by Joe Scalzo and Indy Racing Lengends by Tony Sakkis. The Roadster book is exceptional. Looking forward to the rest of the build! jwrass

Thanks Scott, Great build!!!!

Phil, Good choice and great looking build!!!! Where did you see the build online, I would be interested in looking at it. It's really nice to see a Indy Car build. Watson Roadsters were the car to have until the rear engine cars took over. Larry Watson was a unbelievable talent back in the day. I read a article where Larry was interviewed and he stated that one year in the early 60s he painted the entire 33 car field for the INDY 500. I have a few of the repops in my stash with some INDYCALS decals to do various builds. From what I remember you need like five hands when you put that chassis together. I built one when I was a kid too as Rufus was one of my favorite drivers. The first professional race that my father took me to (I was 9) was at the one mile oval in Milwaukee, it was a USAC 250 mile stock car race and Parnelli won in a Red, White and Blue Mercury. Like so many others I lost mine too and I'm sure lighter fluid and Black Cats were involved. Looking forward to seeing the finished build. I hope you get to meet P.J. GREAT JOB! jwrass

Skip, I too swing the brush and push the paint around! I do all the things you mentioned as well. I do use One Shots size on occasion but mostly Luco and Kurz-Hastings for oil size. I have been using some Wonda water based size that John Hanukanne turned me on to at a panel jam that he had a few year ago and it's great. I do some gilding on glass and do the gelatin hot pot process for that. I love doing leaf, especially engine turned on race cars and fire trucks. Do you subscribe to Signcraft? I know the McIltrot gang fairly well, great family. Not that it is a big deal but I was one of their first subscribers and have every issue since 1978 when they started the magazine, it's fun to pull out those old issues as it was all brush work back them. I wish One Shot would get it together with their paint since they took the lead out and that's been like 20 years ago. I use allot of DuPont Hot Hues striping and lettering urethanes and love them. Not a big Fan of their other products but the Hot Hues is killer. Great to hear from a paint pusher, Cheers Jimmy "RASS"

Gene, What are you implying?

Alan, I was trolling pro stock images the other night and I knew I saw some Billy the Kid decals. Someone has made those in the past and modelcarsmag.com was mentioned. Google Billy the Kid, Images and you will find it there. Their is also a nice build of what you want to do on the Coffin Corner 2 site by rat nasty. Their were some pictures of a full article that he had in Car Craft or Hot Rod and I remember it well, Billy and his crew were dressed like Gangsters with a Tommy Gun full on flapper style. If you could find that issue from the 70s it would be great reference material! Great choice, Billy always had some great looking cars! I hope this helps

Right on Bill!!!!! Jimmy "Rass"

Scott, Awesome build!!!! Huge Foyt Fan all my life. I think that's the car he almost got killed in at Riverside. Do you know if he ever ran with that livery again? Again great build!!!!

Nick. You are right on with regards to durability. Durability is not the issue!!!! it's the process. The mechanics are the same only on a smaller scale. Many use the Airbrush for modeling as I do with custom paint. Airbrushes were not designed for custom painting or modeling, they were designed for photo retouching, photo colorization & Technical art rendering. The Weirdo T Shirts of the Fifties and Sixties hijacked the airbrush and it's used now in many art forms including modeling. On a daily basis we try to replicate 1:1 with braided lines, wire, photo etch yada yada.( I guess that would be a Apples to Oranges too) If a 1:1 product gives you better results with less hassle why wouldn't you use it ? I don't own a NAPA store or get any $$$$$$ for my views on primer and paint. I'm just trying to make life easier based on my experience in the painting process. It's up to the individual to use what they want and what works for them. I can't make anyone change. I'm merely trying to help here not harm. Respectfully jwrass

Ron, Great build!!! Your attention to detail is outstanding

Hakan, When I ran Modified production we had to have a roll over hoop, diagonals from the hoop to the front toe board and diagonals to the floor in the rear under the package tray. We didn't have to have carpet or interior trim, if you didn't have trim on the doors you had to cover them with tin. You had to have two seats up front, stock dash, no seat in the rear. Super Stock had to have full on interiors, most of the people I knew did run a roll hoop but I don't know if it was required. Super Stock had to be a vehicle that could be street driven, where Modified Production did not. Not many SS guys drove them on the street other than those late night blasts down the street that had all the lights come on in the neighborhood, But I never did that

Tyrone, You Have a way with tubing!!!!! Wicked good. What tool or tools are you using for your fish mouths and what glue are you using? Again Great Eye Candy jwrass

Bill: I follow many of your posts and you give great advice!!!!! Being a 1:1 guy you know how frustrating paper loading, swelling, etc etc is. You also know if anything is going to go south on 1:1 or models the % rate favors paint. I'm really glad you chimed in on this one! Sometimes we all find change hard, I would say a great majority of modelers don't know their are alternatives to them when it comes to paint and primers because they have not been exposed to them. Geez the last thing I would want to do is recommend a product that didn't perform and get all kinds of hate mail, My goal is to help not hurt. I understand that some may try it and not like it and go back to what they were using and I'm ok with that. All I know is it works for me, and like you I have been doing 1:1 for a long time. Cato: The # on the lite grey is 7285. Andy: These products are not a two part high build primer in the sense you may be thinking, they are not any higher build than any of the modeling or big box primers. They contain less plastiziers than the modeling or big box products that's why they perform better!!! I never mentioned sheets of powder in my post, all primers produce powder! it's a relative term. Film thickness is controlled by the hand pulling the trigger and the number of coats not the product. i.e. if I'm 12" from the subject not much product is going stick to it. If I'm 3" from the subject very much product will stick to it. It's all in the technique!

Jeff, Regardless of the color styrene you have I would scuff (sand) the body first with 400-600 sandpaper followed by a red scotchbrite pad until all sheen is gone. I personally don't use any of the modeling primers or big box primers as I find them to be inferior If you use Napa/Martin Senour # 7284 Hot Rod Grey (it's actually flat black) or # 7283 Red you will not have any bleed through problems. These primers are Lacquer Primer Surfacers, they come in 15oz cans with a fan spray nozzle and sell for $11.99. If you are concerned with color hold out you can laydown a few coats of white, just enough to cover the primer before you top coat with your color. The best advice I could give you is to ditch the modeling and big box primers. Great choice of cars!!!!! In 1973 I had a 1970 340 six pack with a Dana 60 rear end which was rare and was a factory option, the Dana normally only came in the HEMI cars. It was a awesome car. I wish I had it today. Good luck with your build!!!

PauI, Here is the information I sent to Chris: NAPA/Martin Senour Paints, They all are true Lacquer Primer Surfacers they are as follows: #7283 Red Primer Surfacer, #7284 Hot Rod Gray (black), #7285 Lt Grey Primer Surfacer Adhesion Promoter # 7223 Polypropylene Clear Primer Great Products!!! I hope this helps! Jimmy "RASS"

Yes a bug without fenders in the front (or rear) could be very cool!!!!!

Chris, I use PPG and HOK products exclusively on all my 1:1 and love their products and would not use anything else on 1:1. As I had mentioned before I just got back into modeling in January of this year after a 25ish year hiatus. I really found the NAPA products my accident! So many of the detail products, paint, primers etc were not around the last time I picked up a model. Over those years I continued to collect kits and buy a modeling magazine here and there so when I got back at the bench I went nuts and bought all the modeling primers, metalizing paints etc etc. I messed around on some glue bombs that I bought at yard sales and played Mad Scientist with my new found goodies ( still haven't completed a build yet, my bad) being used to 1:1 materials I just didn't like any of the modeling primers or big box brands ( I have a box of all brands, I tried them all) so I went to my PPG 1:1 primers but mixing small amounts was a drag and I am so anal about how clean I keep my guns ( I have 14 large guns, 5 midsize and 8 Airbrushes) these have been purchased over a 35 + year period but they all look and perform like the day I got them. Putting primer in my iwata LPH 50 gave me heartburn. So I'm in NAPA In Feb getting a belt for my Snow Blower ( I know you are grinning being in AZ) I take a look at the paint rack of rattle cans and I find the primers I listed. I brought one can home and tried it and it is the real deal. Is it as good as the 1:1, no, but it's the best I have found in a rattle can and it beats mixing small amounts of 1:1. On 1:1 I do most high fill sanding dry so I don't like products that load paper, the NAPA primer powders up so nice, no swelling and takes tops coats without sand scratches, swelling etc. As I have read many have success with the brands I have tried and don't like and more power to them!!! But if they tried this brand I think they would ditch the rest. You still have to use best practices flash times, prep etc, It's not magic in a can but for now it's all I will use for modeling, I also like the adhesion promoter before I lay anything down on the styrene, as it seems to seal the plastic and accept primer better. That may seem like a paradox but it works for me! If I told you all the stuff I have been experimenting with on flat stock and sprue you would think I'm a sick puppy. For me it's part of the learning curve in working with plastic again and I find it interesting, I have always been of a curious nature so it's fun. I hope you give it a try, it will only cost you $13 dollars for a 15 oz can. If you don't like it I will buy it from you, that's how confident I am that it will perform for you!!! I see you have a Birthday!!!! Happy Birthday Chris and many more!!!!! Any Info on that Show Card? Jimmy "RASS"

I too have been using these products for some 35 + years as a professional and Bill is right on! He paid more attention to the post and I assumed to much. Follow Bills directions and you should be good to go!!! Thanks Bill for your detailed description!!! this will save many grief from filler failures. Jimmy Rass

Paul, It's always nice to see a OOB. Yours is a excellent example!!! Home Run. Very Very Nice. jwrass

Chris, I sent you a pm on 5/29 about primers and fillers. Get yourself a can of the product I mentioned and try it out!!!! I don't think you will be disappointed. At this stage of the game I don't think it would be wise to put another brand of product over what you have (including the ones I have in the pm) I have experience with both of the PPG products and they are great, however I think you will have worse problems if you top coat over what you have. The PPG is fairly hot!!! much more so than the Plastikote. Let it settle down for awhile and work with what you have been using! it would break my heart to see all of that awesome work turn into a pile of goo. Anything on the Show Card next to the car? I have been meaning to tell you I love your Quote. Great words to live by!!!! Jimmy "RASS"

Blair, Great job on the distressed faux finish, looks like what a great 1:1 barn find might look like. Excellent!!!!!

Martin makes some excellent points with regards to Classes and yes it is a fun kit with some interesting parts for bashing!!! I'll take Mine with Blue Goose or Kettle One, Shaken please Niko, Interesting build and very nice as well!!! Call me ignorant I have never heard of a Simca Vedette. Nice touch with the rubber on the quarters Mike, I didn't mention this in my last post but I used to run a 32 Bantam in the early 70s, I had the chassis built by R&B Chassis ( Dennis Roland & John Buttera, yep Lil John) in Kenosha Wisconsin. At that time they were a premier builder of Funnies, Top Fuel and the customer list was a who's who of some of the best Shoes of the era. The first version of our car we ran a 421 Pontiac NASCAR motor with Donovan Heads, Hilborn Injected on race gas. The second version was a 392 hemi 6/71 Doug Dwyer blower on top of Hilborn injectors on alcohol. The wheel base was 103" with a independent front end (which was pretty rare) and a coil over rear which was pretty rare as well. The original intent was to go to fuel but in 73 the NHRA and other sanctioning bodies banned Nitro for the Altereds due to the high rates of death and injury, the insurance carriers didn't want any part of the Altereds. The car was a handful and I was all elbows in the cockpit and I don't recall ever making a straight pass. When we went to the blown and injected set up the first few runs were short bursts to get the feel and to test all the mechanicals and I thought this isn't so bad compared to the car on gas. WRONG!!! The first full pull I made I almost soiled myself (and I don't scare easy) but I kept my foot on the loud peddle through the traps. We never did get to run the car on fuel which was what the car was built for. I don't know if I would have had the stones to be successful as a great shoe but at the time I was willing to die trying. I have been racing since the age of nine, Started in Karts in 1964 and rent a ride a few times a year in formula ford. I also run in the WKA vintage 250cc Super Kart Class. I bought two new ZIP Super Karts in 1986, one was setup with 125cc Rotax motor and one with a 250cc Rotax inline tandem motor, they were the same chassis just different motor mounts. Again I got caught out on rules with the 250cc class as they were deemed to be to dangerous, but they let us run them now with no restrictions go figure! I stashed the 250 in the storage above the shop and it sat for like 25 years, when I heard they were allowing the 250s back we restored it and I get silly every time I run it. 404 lbs wet with me in the seat. 90 hp on the dyno at 12,500 rpm. It will run 17,000 rpm all day long and I shift at 14,500 (six speed) At Road America we run 170 mph down into turn 5 with a ground clearance of 7/8". I have to admit the 250s are a handful, very nervous and twitchy so you have to pay attention in the seat. Being around the and owning a 1:1 Altered the model kits are far from accurate as the cars were really one offs and changed on a weekly basis. Period correct cars of the 70s were typically 100" to 110" wheel bases with most being in the mid range of those dimensions. You could cut up a funny car kit but you would be doing alot of cutting and the roll cages would not be period correct! I would recommend a Altered kit and modify it to your taste as they are more accurate in the wheel base. Good luck on the build! It's always great to hear from a Altered Fan! "Fuel Altereds Forever" Jimmy "RASS"

Scott, I just spent about a hour looking through the whole process/progress. You truly have a gift for detail, realism, vision and skillful hands. Amazing build Scott. I look forward to watching this build. Cheers Jimmy "Rass"