jwrass

The Artograph 1530 is another fine example of a $ 400 exhaust fan!!! This is not a booth!!!!!

Seems to be much discussion on what classifies as a spray booth. Basically all that is offered that I have seen are merely exhaust fans with enclosures to buffer overspray but are still open to the surrounding environment I see so many posts as "I have to wait to paint because of the weather" ( which is 95% wrong!!!!! as there are many ways to combat weather related issues through chemistry) How many out there would consider the following: Use a real enclosed booth? Build and climate controlled booth in a kit form? Purchase a Commercially built booth.

Dito of Jeff's Idea

Brendon, I Agree with Michaels approach. I do vinyl wraps in my business and have many templates and very rarely are they 100 % correct. I have templates from Pro Vehicle outlines and Aurora graphics and used to update my software libraries on these yearly but stopped about five years ago because I used maybe a few a year and the updates were $ 300/yr Wraps are started to wain for small businesses as they are very expensive and from what I see people are more receptive to partial wraps. The templates I have are in a 1:20 scale so you have to resize measure yata yata. it's a hassle. The good news is that you can buy a single files of a particular vehicle and work with that. The files are in a vector format so they are easy work with. One thing I would do before you commit to decal paper is print your templates out on plain paper, glue those templates on with a low tack craft adhesive ( I use elmers craft bond) this product is like the sticky on a post it note. You can reposition it to get the fit you want, cut darts etc. Hope this helps jwrass

Seems I did address the problem of year round painting with my reference to a 1:1 booth. It's just like racing the more money you spend the faster you CAN go. I could easily put together, manufacture and market a enclosed climate controlled booth but who it going to pay upwards of $ 2000 to buy one. Maybe I should engineer one, draw the plans, put together a materials list and sell it!!!! A climate controlled booth can easily be done!!! No more waiting for weather (which is way over blown) what is that worth? Who knows?

Cameron, I have designed and sprayed in many 1:1 booths and I find Tom's design to be the closest thing to a real 1:1 booth out their ( great job Tom!!!!) I don't know why these manufactures keep calling their booths, booths They are exhaust fans!!!! or the equivalent to prep stations in a paint shop without the make up air. The true definition of a booth is a pressure controlled closed environment, Meaning: Incoming Air Treatment, Outgoing Air Treatment, Pressures, Temp. humidity etc. Designing a booth has many different calculations that go into the success of a booth that performs well. I won't get into them here ( if you want to pm me I will expound further) Only the basics! To insure clean paint work in your conditions you need to bring in filtered outside air also know as Make up air with a pleated type filter in the air stream, The incoming air should have the a better quality filter than the exhaust fan filter ( much of that has to do with the EPA rules of the area 1:1) I doubt you will be getting permits yada yadas to do your project. I would use the same type of filters on the intake and exhaust. When you put a enclosure inside a enclosure (Booth, Room) you need to have a slight positive pressure on the booth in relationship to the room to create a positive or exfiltration of the air to prevent sucking in trash from the space the booth is in, just a small amount of air will do. On 1:1 systems the incoming air (make up air) is typically treated with a heat cycle or dehumidification cycle to insure year round production! As not to be waiting for that perfect day to paint as project time = $$$$$ I personally feel 300 to 500 cfm is way overkill, however if you go that route I would put speed controls on the motors to fine tune your airflows on shaded pole motors, a simple rheostat will do. 100 to 150 cfm should be more than adequate! for your booth, again I would use speed controls as this inexpensive feature lets you fine tune your system. Keep the motors out of the air stream and stay away from propeller type fan blades as their resistance to over come static pressure in any type of duct work is very poor. I hope this helps!!!! jwrass

I see! So it's more of a personal shop setup! I still have my original Wren from like when I was 10 Years old, The original box and all! It still works and I use it for certain things today. Didn't have a air compressor when I first got it only R-12 propellant tanks. By todays standard it's a pile of BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH, however I know a Custom Painter Who still uses one and is by far one of the best Muralists in the world. He uses the fluid screw much like someone would use the trigger on a dual action Brush. Craig Frasier did a two part article on him a few years ago in Airbrush Action Mag or Auto Art Mag The artists Name is IVAN.. jwrass Jeez....... I get BLAHed on a word that rhymes with Rap! YOU need a time out James!!!!!!

Do you have a coalesent type filter or just a water separator? How did you arrive at 6', 6' ? How is your main pipe run from the compressor to your water trap? Why do you purge your trap? Why do you use a diaphragm type compressor?

Kerry, My deepest heartfelt sympathies and prayers go out to you and your family!!!! You have a gift that many never get in their life, Great times and Memories with their father. Keep those close to your heart!!!! Oh!! real men do cry!!!

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!!

To All, The term Body in White or it came in primer has been around for as long as I can remember and I was born in 55. To be truthful I never really understood where it came from and I have been around racing and race cars all my life. What prompted me to further investigate this topic was my own curiosity, personal experience and John Shoes photo. A very good friend of my fathers was a USAC stock car driver by the name of Norm Nelson. Norm was a multiple USAC champion, Owner/Driver and had a who's who of drivers who drove for him, AJ Foyt, Jim Hurtibuies, Rodger McCluskey. Norm Nelson Automotive had factory backing from Chrysler and ran under the Plymouth banner, His shop was about two miles from our house and if I wasn't there with my father when I was a kid I would often ride my stingray to the shop at least once a week to hang out, sweep the floor, take the garbage out, all for as many contingency stickers a kid could ever ask for. The thing that turned a light bulb on in my head is I remember a day when I was at the shop and a flatbed showed up with a Belvidere packaged in a large wooden crate similar to the one in Johns picture but with much more wood. The Mechanics in the shop stripped much of the crate away and Norms son and I went to town on that body with shop rags and turpentine to remove the cosmoline. In my research I found some interesting information the following are quotes and copies of information I found. Their is a lot more out there but I found these two very interesting. I think it's fair to say there was some confusion!!! None of us were 100% right or 100% wrong. Body In White: A stage in the automotive design which a car bodies sheet metal have been welded but before moving parts have been installed. The name derives from manufacturing practices before steel, unibody or monocoque bodies, When automotive bodies were made by outside firms on a separate chassis with a engine, suspension and fenders attached. The manufactures built or purchased wooden bodies (with thin, non structural metal sheets on the outside) to bolt onto the frame. The bodies were painted white prior to the final color. Think pre 40s era cars. I have known for years that you can buy original clones and full body combos by the OEMS for racing purposes but had never heard the phrase body in white as coined by GM. In closing. I have to say I'm not proud of the part I played in feeding the firestorm of this thread. Jason, My Personal Apology to you!!!!! As I said before I love what you are doing and look forward to your build

My My!!!! Part Fact, Part Fiction, Part Theory!!! I hope CSI can help us out on this one!!!! Jason- Awesome tape outs!!!! I love it when someone takes the time, does the hard work and applies paint vs decals. Great work!!!! Brett- All your Theories work for me! The very first picture was as you said most likely a promo car or SS car. When you look inside the car their are no bars so it's not a Pro Stock for sure and most likely not even a SS as I think they required at least a roll over hoop. The Moulin Rouge Code and Paint numbers I provided in a earlier post come from a old Ditzler/PPG color chip book that I have had since forever. There is a * at the bottom of the page that states" Production run on this color will be available Fed 24, 1970". Gene- The first photo of the car is most definitely Moulin Rouge! Chris- I think your fact checker may be a bit out of calibration. Very few got anything from the factory even the Sox & Martins of the world and if they did it was seconds and the teams were thankful for it! The car clinics that the factories put together were for the benefit of the car buying public more so than that of the race car teams. I've heard the color white story a zillon times, I don't know who started that one but 95% of those cars took a bath in acid before any construction began so color was irrelevant. Even though Pro Stock became a official class for the 1970 season. I don't think a real true race car was built until Bill Jenkins built his 72 Vega without any factory help. State of the art chassis, glass components and the car ran a small block.

Roy, Say it ain't so!!!I used on OTL last night a quote of one of his song titles "I Was Raised On Rock" Overall not a great day going for me today! Stick a fork in me I'm done!!!! One of if not the best who could run a tube of steel up and down the neck of a Guitar and make it talk! John Dawson Winter III R.I.P

Top Car First photo 1970 CUDA. Plymouth Moulin Rouge code# M-3. PPG# 2260

Erik, Many factors go into cleaning a brush, First don't let your paint dry in your brush!!!!! LOL we all have been there and done that. Is the brush worth cleaning? if it's one of those buy one get a hundred free!! pitch it. Much of my livelihood is made with a brush in my hand, this is how I clean my brushes. I first try to clean them in the solvent that would be used to thin the paint, this may take a good soaking, I use a very soft tooth brush soaked in thinner and stroke the hair from the heel of the brush to the tip to remove the gunk, if you need to move to a stronger thinner to dissolve the dried paint do so, I do this until the brush is clean. I have used big box brush conditioner with some success. I condition my brushes when clean with a brush oil(all my brushes!!!!any medium) I hope this helps. jwrass

Ray, Very nice build!!!! I can't take credit for the picture!!!! It's something Mr Bob Spedding submitted of a 1:1 build. Cheers, jwrass

Dave, You may or may not be able to save it. Like Mike said you simply may have some bad product which is a bummer and makes one doubt them self because we all assume that what we buy should not be defective so in our minds we rule out the product when in fact it happens, it has happened to me more than once and I'm sure it will happen again before I retire my spray equipment. I'm going to assume some things like you have experience painting, you know how to prep your sub straight, solvent flash times, proper prep procedures between coats of primer and color coats. Cleanliness between coats, using a tack cloth between coats. If not I will gladly back the train back into the station and start at 101. Let's try to trouble shoot this problem! First we need to ask some questions...... 1) How did you prepare your surface, from the beginning ? (washing, sanding, etc before you applied primer) 2) What type and brand of primer did you use? 3) How did you prepare the primer before your topcoat ? ( sand paper grit, cleaning before top coat) 4) What type and brand of topcoat did you use? I know you said you used 600 grit sandpaper before the topcoat so lets keep that in mind. You said the top coat is flaking off, is it all coming off or just in spots? the flakes that come off are they brittle or do they still have some flex in them? Lets start with that and see what we can determine. jwrass

Dave, Did you sand or scuff the primer before color coat?

Very impressive!!!

Dave, Anything Brubeck is all good!!!Take Five Is a Classic I'm much like John Shoe, their was always music In our house when I was growing up and their were many flavors to choose from. When I was very young my father was a tenor in a Barber Shop Quartet which was really big in that era (50s early 60s) I was raised on rock (JDWinter) and my dad really liked allot of it. One Bands he used to really like was Emerson, Lake and Palmer, he favored the Trilogy album and particularly liked the Sheriff and Hoedown. American Standards with a rock flair, genius on ELPs part really. My Daughter listens to more of my music that she heard while she was growing up than what she bought and listened to when she was able to make her own choices!! there is hope!

Dr C, Hey don't knock the Garbage Pail Kids what did they ever do to you ? lol. Those were awesome and had some great weirdo artwork. I used to buy that stuff for the awesome Leaf gum. Not really my thing! I wish you great success with your latest endeavor!

Dear Jeff, I hope you have a change of heart!!! Pull the body back out and throw it in the pond for a week! When you say it is leaching, can you be more specific? I may be able to help. Jimmy "RASS"

Tom, You make some great points!!!! Mike 1017 post I didn't quite understand so I didn't respond. There are so many different primers out their for different applications it's hard to keep count. To me other than proper prep of the sub straight the application and type of primer you use is the most important part of the paint process. A bad foundation equals bad finish coats.

Chris, The Tins look super!!! Glad the pooch is doing well!!!! Keeping the inflammation down will help allot. When you have them since they were puppies it's difficult to watch them age. Again all looks great!!!! jimmy "RASS"

Remember PBAD! well remember Deep Purple better!!!! Great find Harry you are right the sound is terrible. Always thought Highway Star was one of their best!!! Hef and his Harem!!! It's good to be the King