jwrass

Their is a excellent 2 page critique article on the 427 SOHC in Scale Autos The Best of Bench Racer #618218 (no date printed on the publication) written by Drew Hierwarter. The discussion is his opinion which manufacture made the best replication of the SOHC with pictures. The pictures are of four engines he built so you can get a show and tell version of said engine, he built them as follows: One with a single carb NASCAR version, One as a dual carb Pro Stock version, One as a blown Gasser version, and one as a injected AFX or Jr Dragster version. To me it was a great read and interesting to see the differences of the replications. I need some input!!!! If I were to make a PDF and post it will I get naughty points! Don't need no naughty points. jwrass

Skip, Thanks for defining the static deal, I was having a hard time putting the word together today. I couldn't find the original post and from what I remember I explained the process in more detail the first go around I have been using the water alcohol mix for years on helmets, race car bodies any thing plastic and it really does make a difference. I used it on a whim on a model just because it's plastic and the results were awesome, Give it a try! Thanks for substantiateing my claim of paint being pulled out of the brush from static electricity, unless you've been there most people would think you were nuts that paint could actually be pulled out of a brush through static electricity. I have had it work to my advantage a few times over the years on custom painted helmets, people go how did you do that and the response is ancient Chinese secret. I know you have been swinging a brush for a long time so I appreciate you sharing in the static debate. I have been trying to get ahold of John Hanukane the last few weeks with no luck, but I did talk to Bonnie and she said all is well have you seen him lately? Again thanks for sharing! Keep it Wet!!! Jimmy 'Rass

To All: Now that the subject is out there I thought I would give a little history lesson on how I found and defeated the Static problem on any thing that is not metal (Fiberglass, Kevlar, Plastic) I started doing freehand pinstriping when I was sixteen (see my profile) about a year into my journey a friend of mine asked me to bring some of my work to one of their Snowmobile meeting in a effort to get my name out there. It was a very productive night! Just guessing I think I got about 7-8 people contact me to do work for them which was great. Up until this point I had never done a Snowmobile Cowl. The project entailed registration Numbers, Old School, Pinstriping and the name of the sled ( can't remember the name) with a cartoon of a half moon. I wiped the whole cowl down twice with wax and grease remover and did my layout for the moon and the name of the sled which was to be placed on the front of the cowl. When I went to put the brush to the surface to do my thing I got about one inch away from the surface the paint literally was being draw out of the paint brush like a magic trick. I was what was that!! So I wiped the paint off and went to apply the art work and the same thing happened after about a hour of this wipe on wipe off. I got some windex or fantastic or something of that nature wiped the surface down, went to apply my artwork with no problem. A wet rag works to Back in the day custom painters pinstripers were very secretive of techniques, the information was out there I had just never heard of this magic brush wonder of the world. The problem was the more I rubbed the fiberglass cowl the more static charge I was putting into the fiberglass. The static charge that was created was pulling the paint from the brush in a very random pattern, it looked super trick but I wasn't looking for a effect I was looking to do the original artwork the owner wanted. On helmets that I do today I sometimes incorporate this wild random pattern say inside a taped off graphic and people dig it because it looks so cool. The way I do this is I rub the living day lights out of the area with a cotton cloth to build the static charge, bring the brush to the surface and move it around in random patterns and let the brush create the magic. Depending on how much static is built up I can empty a fully loaded brush of all of it's paint. After I had this original problem I had found out from a old sign painter/pinstriper that it was a static charge that was pulling the paint from the brush. By wiping the surface down with a water based product it killed the charge and that's how I was able to continue with the project. I still use this effect and people ask for it as it really does make certain graphics pop! Ok now that we know how the static is created and killed how does this relate to plastic models? It's the same principal the more you rub it the more static charge you create. The only way to kill it is to give it a bath with a water based product. Their are commercial based product like Rapid Prep made by Rapid Tack or you can mix your own. This is been used my Custom Painters, Pinstripers, Sign Artist for more years than I have been doing it. The formula is as follows 1-2 parts rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol to 9-8 parts distilled water by volume (I use the rubbing alcohol because the solvents in the denatured are more harsh) place this in a hand pump spray bottle and right before you paint lightly mist the part with this solution and gently wipe it off with a micro fiber towel. You have now killed the static charge and dust particles will not be attracted to the pieces like flies to honey. Your paint work will thank you for it! Rob, It is true that plastic is a insulator for many things electric, there is however a difference between man made electricity and mother natures static electricity, I could go into a whole dissertation of electrical theory as I have been a digital control specialist since 1978 and hold a minor in electronics from one of the finest engineering schools in the world. If you want to talk electronics PM me. This thread was intended to help get cleaner paint work not electronics. With all do respect most of what you posted doesn't hold water for me. I can prove the process and you can too!!! Again pm me and I will tell you how to do this experiment. If you would want to make a wager of a kit trade If I am wrong I'm all in!!!! To keep it fair and honest we can both film the process with the same set of rules and materials. I am 100% confident this process takes place. I have to deal with it all the time to pay the bills. I'm not trying to be disrespectful to you and your opinion. I know the mechanics and science of this process and I know it to be true. It's not my opinion this subject, it's facts. David, The process you are referring to is more like powder coating, I could explain the process but I'm not interested in doing that. My goal was to help builders get cleaner paint work, not electrical theory. Google Powder coating and you will find how electronics plays a part in that process. In closing I did not start this thread I posted this process some time ago. I merely chimed in to explain how a negative problem turned out to be profitable and how to control that problem and benefit from it. I use this solution on anything plastic before I paint them (not just models) and my paint work is turns out pretty much dust free. In all fairness the painting is done in a 1:1 Booth but I know if I don't use this solution my paint work is not as clean. Their have been many who have tried this process and PMed me to thank me for the tip, I would say that the technique must be is working for some. EDIT 9/22/14 I failed to mention that when I wipe the solution off the project to get ready for paint I do dampen the micro fiber cloth with a few sprits of the solution from the spray bottle, I wipe gently in one direction and any hint of the solution that is left behind I just let it evaporate. When you are certain the surface is dry apply your coating. Respectfully, jwrass

Ace, Great information!!!!!! I know you have vast experience in the Aircraft Arena and thank you for sharing The how's, the whys, the wherefores and most importantly the safety. There is a art and science to what you do when making repairs, their are no short cuts and you need to be a seasoned technician with years of schooling and training to qualify to do the types of repairs you do. these are not DIY projects Their are many product and materials used in many industries that components are mixed by weight because that's how they are designed. It's just like paint problems I feel most painter problems start at the bench by not adhering to mixing ratios. How I described the way I would mix could easily be done on a scale to get the proper proportions. I personally I would still do it the way I described as it would in fact give me a larger working window. I have all sorts of big box epoxy brands and curing times for house hold use. I have never use any epoxies on models (just got back into modeling the first of this year after being away from it for many years) I use the stuff for nick nacks and things that get broken around the house but never have had success with any if it where strength was a factor. I know the epoxies that are used for aircraft are of a critical nature and that best practices prevail. With big box types of epoxy I personally don't feel it's that critical (to a degree) I would bet that I have never mixed a batch of epoxy, body filler, glazing putty to exact ratios using the ribbon method as recommended by the manufactures and I have been mixing that stuff for close to 40 years With big box epoxies whether you add thinner before you mix A&B or after you mix A&B I really don't feel theirs a difference ( you say tomato, I say tomato, come see, com sa) your still adding a additional component to the mix which in theory does alter the base product. It's a model no one is going to die if it falls of the shelf (Hopefully) I personally I have had great tech support (but I don't work in the aircraft business) within 2 minuets I can tell if the person I speaking with knows what they are talking about. Just like my customers I try to qualify them to meet their needs and my needs. If I feel the tech doesn't have a clue I ask for another one. I go as high on the food chain as I have to get the answers I need. If I buy their product I feel they owe me that. I'm not bashful in getting the answers I need. Having product data sheets is great and I keep binders of every product I use. I have found errors over the years in many data sheets. Nothing is exempt to error, we read about it everyday during the new cycle. Great lay ups Bill!!! quality A+++++ Just curious are the bucks original pieces or did you make them? They look great! I have done much fiberglass work in my career and have played with resin castings of late with mixed results. I'm definitely going to try your process!!! Thanks for sharing. My greatest respects to you Bill!!! You are truly a asset to all who are on this site! jwrass

Cato, From my point of view and experience there is not a glue, epoxy, resin, body filler, spot putty etc that can't be thinned, I do some consulting work for Rust-Olem on their HVAC equipment for their R&D division in Kenosha ,Wi I have seen them mix small batches in the lab for testing and large batches in the plaint for production of thousands of gallons for resale. The basis formula for paint is resin, pigments and thinner or (reducer) after they mix the material for a period of time they check the viscosity with a zahn cup ( you can look it up on the internet) the cup in cylindrical in shape with a domed bottom with and hole in it. the top of the cup is open and they have a hand much like a ladle. To check the viscosity you dip the cup in the paint and when you pull it out of the paint you start to time( I use a stop watch) how long it takes for the cup to empty. the time it takes to empty the zahn cup would be the measured viscosity. if the viscosity is to thick they add reducer if It's to thin the add more resin and pigment. It's a simple process really, when the paint is to thick you just add more reducer, When it's to thin it's a bit more tricky because you have to add more resin and pigment and you need the color to come out perfect so when the consumer from coast use multiple cans of say sunshine yellow they all match. The mixtures of the paint are all computer controlled as to how much material you have to add (if any) to get the proper color and viscosity. I know this chatter on paint my be a bit confusing because you asked about thinning epoxy, however I thought I would give you some insight viscosity and how they all relate. It has been my experience that most resin base materials can be thinned down. The only question that is unanswered is what material to I use to thin it and to keep it's intended integrity. First approach I would take is to call customer service and tell them about your problem and ask what they recommend, I call tech support from time to time and I have to say that 95% of the people know their product and steer you In the right direction. As for fiberglass work I use acetone as that is the recommended product for that type of resin and it works great! I will echo Aces comments on that not all resins are the same chemical make up. You may have to try several types of solvent to get the results you desire. You may have to SWAG it with a drop of this and a drop of that to get the results you desire. If I were me my first choice for a epoxy would be Acetone, then Lacquer thinner as they are pretty hot solvents. Denatured alcohol is pretty weak compared to the two I mentioned. I use denatured alcohol to remove little mistakes and finger prints on pinstriping jobs and I never have had that solvent attack the under lying paint. Play around with some scrapes before you commit to your model, As you add thinner go slow a drop at a time, it's allot easier to add a bit more thinner that to try to hurry to add a bit of A&B because you have little time before it kicks if you choose the mix it all at one time method The one thing I would do different than Ace is I would thin part A and B in separate containers and get them to be of equal consistency. Then I would mix the two together A&B this gives you longer working time. as you not trying to add this or that as the epoxy is starting to cure. Once A meets B it's game on!!!!! the chemical reaction has begun and your time is limited. Either method is fine and will work The method I describe gives you a longer work time and could save you the hassle of trying to add this or that because you over reduced I hope this helps!!! Good luck & cheers Jimmy "RASS"

Mike, I have brushes in my hand almost every day as a profession ( pinstriper, sign artist, yada yada see my profile) This is what I would recommend as a brushing technique. 1) Success with applying your paint depends on four things. The proper size brush for the Item you are painting. How you load your brush with paint. The viscosity of the paint in your brush and the type of hair your brush is made of, i.e. Natural, Synthetic or a blend of Natural and Synthetic. As a rule of thumb the Synthetics, the Blends and some Naturals will work in any medium, Water based, Oil Based, Lacquers and Urethanes. I don't recommend Naturals such as squirrel hair (sometimes called camel hair) in water based paint as they tend to get mussy as their hairs are very soft, These types of hair work best with Oil, Lacquer, and Urethanes, not so much with water based. 2) Palette your paint into the brush (sometime called loading) don't do the dip from the container and brush on the surface. Have your paint and a small container of the thinner you will be using that is compatible with your paint. Get a magazine (one with shinny pages) dip your brush into paint container a few times to get puddle of paint on to your palette, Now take your brush and move it back and forth in a linear motion to properly load your brush, fully load the brush, get the paint all the way up to the ferrule. If you feel you have to much paint in the brush stroke it off to the side of the puddle to remove some of the paint, if you feel you have to little return to the palette and add more paint. The reason you want to have some thinner on your palette is you may find that your paint is a bit to thick, dip your brush in the thinner and go to the puddle of paint and palette until you to get the consistency you want. continue to do this little dance on the palette each time you load the brush. This process will take a little time to get used to however once you get it your brush results will improve exponentially. I typically use the manufactures thinner of the brand of paint I use, However what ever thinner you use that's a decision only you can make, just make sure it's compatible with your paint. When you are done with the painting process thoroughly clean your brush with the thinner you used to thin your paint. If you want your brushes to last for years be gentle with them when you clean them, swish them back and forth in the thinner and use a rag and gently squeeze paint out from around the ferrule. Rinse and repeat until clean. I use a brush conditioner on my brushes after use to keep them soft and supple I never store them dry. I don't use any type of waterborne paint other than Autoair and I use their thinners for paletting and clean up. I can't help you with reduction of any of those other types of waterborne paints but it seems that a few on the thread have a good handle as what to use. If you are going to get serious about your modeling a Airbrush is the way to go. But for now if you try this technique I think you will be pleased with the results. If you are confused on the paletting process go on youtube, their are many pinstripers who have how to videos and cover how to load a brush process I hope this helps! Good Luck!!!! Cheers jwrass

Skip, Their are many ways to combat crazing problems. And many of the responces have merit and could work. What you have (if it's crazing) is a common mistake many new painters make be it A model kit or 1:1. All petroleum bases solvents are corrosive to certain types of materials some use the terminology as hot which would be a proper definition, i.e. Lacquer thinner is hotter than Mineral sprits, consequently minerals spirits would be less aggressive or corrosive to the plastic. My guess it that the original builder started the painting process and the solvents started to craze the surface (this can happen with primer or paint, solvents don't discriminate) crazing it merely the first phase of melting the plastic. My guess it the painter started to see the crazing and figured well I'll just put the material on thicker and wetter which will only makes the problem worse as the solvents don't flash and the material stays wet to longer which give the solvents more time to attack the plastic. There is no guarantee my process will work, this is how I would proceed. 1) Sand the surface with 180-220 grit paper and try to feather out the bad spots the best you can. 2) Apply a skim coat of a 2 part glazing putty such as Evercoat 100408. 3) Sand and feather skim coat and finish to a 400-600 grit paper and a red scuff pad in preparation for primer. 4) This is optional but I would spray two lite coats of Polpropylene clear plastic primer with recommended flash times between coats. The reason I say this is optional is this product is expensive. I have to have this product for some of the 1:1 custom paint work I do so it's always on hand in my mixing booth. This product acts as a adhesion promoter and sealer and it made specifically for plastic. 5) If you choose to do step 4 or choose not to do that step apply your primer in very lite coats with recommend flash times between coats, watch the surface as you apply the primer, you may still get a few hints of crazing, if so apply the next coat at bit dryer and proceed with the next steps (if the surface continues to craze you may not be able to save it) of applying more coats of primer. Better to apply 10 dryer coats than 5 medium coats. after your first round of the priming process let the surface dry for a few days and block sand with wet or dry 400-600 grit sand paper to remove any imperfections or sand scratches continue to do the prime and sand process until you feel the surface is ready for final sanding in preparation for your color coat. *** The theory of the lite coats is to get the solvents to flash as soon as possible so they don't have time to attack the plastic. As the film thickness of the primer builds it will start to form a barrier between the plastic and the primer which should eliminate any further crazing, the key is to have the solvents flash before they reach the plastic to prevent crazing. 6) If you feel your surface is ready for paint from your prime and sand sessions wet sand the surface with 600-800 grit paper followed by a grey scuff pad and prep for paint. 7) Apply your first coats of paint on the med dry side (allow recommended flash times) to make sure you are not having any reactions in the primer, if the surface looks fine and you are not getting any print back from the original problems you can start to apply the coats wetter until you have the coverage and color you were looking for. I personally would not use future as a sealer as it contains water and other ingredients that may not be compatible with solvent based products. It has been my experience that water and solvents don't play well together unless the product has a dehydration component in their formula like waterborne OEM paints which are compatible with solvent based clears. Others may have used future and have had success with that process, that is a choice only you can make. Having being a 1:1 custom painter for some 35+ years (see my profile) I always use one product line from start to finish, I never mix brands. All of the paint work I do is high end work and I can't afford to take chances with failures as that can cost me many $$$$$$$$. I don't feel that extreme process is necessary for modeling, however I feel best practices should always try to be applied. I hope this helps, Good luck! Cheers, jwrass

Mike, I couldn't remember the name of the lighter fluid that I had used back then and I'm not a smoker (it's been like 30+ years since I did that trick) I know it started with R (I guess I had Ron Propeal on the brain) and came in a blue and red or yellow can and yes I think the name was Ronson. I doubt I'll be trying that trick anytime soon as I had a incident with fireworks at a party I had and a four year old got hurt, so that put a damper on my pyro days. However thanks for the tip!

Pete, Your one lucky guy!!! If Coast was that close to my house I'd never get anything done! Every time I have been in there I confused as were to go first. It's like being in a maze of all things good for a custom painters. I always leave with a much lighter wallet and have to ship it home because it's a such a hassle to bring it home on my flights. But I leave with a smile on my face and have something to look forward to when I get home. Cheers, jimmy "RASS"

Jason, Ace makes some great and accurate points. Here's a few more to consider. Any color can be made into a pearl color with pearl pigments or pastes (if you can find the pastes) by adding the pigments to the paint or clear. Pearls come in a variety of colors, hues, intensity the only limit is your imagination. Before the OEMs started putting pearl type pigmentation in their paint formulas pearl pigments where typically added to clear and placed over the color coat to achieve the pearl look (not always, in 1977 I painted a 1975 Firebird pearl red that my jobber custom mixed by adding pearl paste to a OEM color) There are many OEM and Custom pearl colors that can be shot out of a rattle can to full size spray guns. If you are set on a particular OEM color go with that, otherwise try the clear coat pearl method. I personally use HOK and PPG products for my 1:1. But have also used Jacquard pearl powders that can be found at Hobby Lobby and Michaels. I have had great success on inlays and helmets and would use them on models as these powders are compatible with all types of carrier. After you shoot the pearl color, top coat it with clear. Like Ace said DO NOT sand directly on the pearl as this with scratch the pearl platelets and give you a blotchy or smearing type of look. Good luck! Cheers, jwrass

I used to have Coast Airbrush put seals in all my new airbrushes (as and option) at least 15 years ago when Dave's father was still top dog. Now any airbrush that is of professional quality are sold with solvent proof seals (not all are Teflon) The fact is before any exotic seals were available we all used standard air brushes and had a copious supplies of seals. I was on the airbrush line of a major player in the van craze days and have put just about every type of fluid through those things. They also make excellent flame throwers my choice of amo back on the line was Ronco lighter fluid I don't know of the thread greatest airbrush shop ever but I'm guessing it's Coast. I have been there many times including one of their Christmas parties as my Daughter lived about a half hour from Coast when she was Flying out of Edwards Air Force Base. I'm not going to drop names but I know many of the major players who frequent the Coast Lounge. If you are ever in So Cal It is a must see!!! jrass

What I meant by cleaning it at it end of the day is that some days I have a airbrush in my hands all day (I'm a custom painter who's hobby is modeling) If I took mine apart after each color, phone call etc I'd spend most of my day cleaning my airbrushes. Most modern day professional airbrushes (within about the last five years) have seals that any type solvents won't harm them. To be sure!!! check model and manufacture as to if they have installed solvent resistant seals. I don't want anyone damaging their airbrush based on my comments and usage. Thanks for the concerns about cleanliness mates! Jimmy "RASS"

Looking great!!! I too like to save some of the old glue bombs and kits that were never finished that I have found a yard sales. Can be frustrating but so fulfilling when done! Thanks for sharing Bernard! Looking forward to more!

My Two Cents, Lacquer thinner used to be made in three different blends, Low Temp, Med Temp, High Temp. As you went up the temp range the thinners got hotter. The reason for these different ranges was for painting in different weather conditions and to help with paint flow to produce a flat and even surface ready to buff (this all relates to 1:1) All of these thinner were compatible with each other so you could brew your own blend to thin your paint. Their was also a additive called lacquer retarder this stuff was hot, hot, hot. We used to always thin our primers with the low temp thinner because of it's short flash times which equals fast dry time. In the 1:1 environment production is money. Low temp thinners would be the product that you can buy at the big box stores. I use this stuff all the time, blow out between colors, cleaning yada yada. My guess is that MCWs cleaner is high temp thinner or a combination of high temp and retarder, this would make for a very hot blend. It may be a blend of many things that they mixed together and found that worked as a good cleaner. Acetone is a hot solvent and I have used it in a pinch however I did use it as a blow out cleaner with some Black Gold HOK Kandie lime gold (lacquer) and I got a big wad of jello when I poured the acetone in the cup and I had a mess. I had used acetone before with other black gold HOK lacquers and never had a problem so have no idea why it gelled with the lime gold. I'm really anal about my airbrushes and disassemble and clean when I'm done for the day. I also use airbrush lube when I put them back together and I have found that this really makes a difference on the trigger action. jwrass

Ace, When do we eat! Those look deliciousoso. I know the address Down Two Then Left. What can I bring? Cheers!!! Jimmy "Rass"

Ace, Great history lesson & information!!! I'm printing this laminating it and putting it in the race trailer. I have known the definition of AN for as long as I can remember but I'm sure it will open some eyes When they see the nomenclature of AN, Army Navy. Always love reading your posts as they always contain well thought out contributions. jimmy "RASS"

Steve, I guess I gave up on the BMF because I do leafing. What prompted me to do the leaf was I was messing around with BMF On a Indy Car (which was probably not a kit to use BMF) and I was about to pitch it across the room and I am a very patient man. Then I light when on!!!!!! I got out the leaf sizing and leaf and I have been using this process for years. it's a delicate operation and takes sometime to get the hang of it ( maybe more so than BMF) but it is seamless when applied properly and can be buffed to various sheens. I don't have any of the chrome or gold in stock but next time I get to the supply house I'll have one of my guys cut me off a sample and give it a whirl. jwrass

To All: Very curious about this subject, Does anyone know the thickness of BMF I checked their web site and they have no specs that I could find on their site. I do all my faux metal in silver leaf ( I'm a old school lettering artist, pinstriper, Custom Painter. I also do vinyl-- yuk) I was working on a tutorial on leafing That's 90% done before I severely broke my leg 10 weeks ago and have been pretty much confined to bed rest until this week. This will give me a opportunity to finish that tutorial and hopefully a few more on Custom Paint. I know many have great luck with BMF and that's great! I personally never liked it and never had much success with it. I few months ago I went through my stash and found some old warped BMF and tossed it out. Now I wish I would have kept it so I could measure the thickness (as applied no backing) The reason I'm looking for the thickness is I may have another product from the sign industry that may help others. I don't know what the film thickness of the Metallic Stripez is. My guess is it is pretty thick because of the market for which it's produced and agree it's most likely to thick for modeling In the 70s-80s Chrome, Gold, Prizmatic, Wizbang was very popular and used on many 1:1 racecars that I lettered. They still make a few of these films Chrome and Gold for sure as I am looking at oracals color chart, the specification on these products is 1 mil thickness which is .001 that is thin (I have seen some people use tin foil and glue and I measured tin foil with a micrometer and caliper and it was tight at 0.05 mils which is .002) I haven't used these films in years but I do remember they were difficult to install on large areas but a breeze on small areas, they also could be manipulated easily with a light touch of a heat gun or hair dryer. I'd be interested to know the film thickness of BMF, Maybe sign vinyl may be a viable alterative. Respectfully, jwrass

Jeff, Nice save!!!! Looks great from where I'm sitting. Looking forward to the rest!!!! jwrass

Russ, Look at my response in this section (MBQ&A) titled Candy Paint Jobs/Hot Rods a thread started by 10thumbs on July 2nd. That should get you headed in the right direction! jwrass

Bill, HOKs old # BC 2 Silver was a great base coat However that was Lacquer based ( black gold my still carry it) the HOK FBC 02 Silver is a good choice as well. I have found that if you dilute any of the metallic bases (colors) with clear you can get different tones and shades due to the displacement of the platelets, however you will need more coats to get even and full coverage over your ground coat of primer. jwrass

AZ, Thanks for the info!!!! Again spectacular build!!!! jwrass

Skip, John, Harry, Danno, Paul, Finally some voices of reason!!!!! You all have made some great points! I know this is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy of topic. I personally don't use pot anymore but in my time (60&70s) I bet I smoked a few garbage bags full (large size) I feel our country is headed towards the legalization of pot and I don't have a problem with it. The biggest problem I see is how law enforcement will handle it on a wide scale with the OWUI Statues from state to state. I give Hobby Lobby allot of credit for running their privately held company as they see fit (not because of their religious views) buy running a free enterprise freely in a free country!!! Like many I have been in plenty of H.L.s across the country and I have never heard any pipe organs or religious points of view. Not even a God Bless You and the check out. I think much of that discussion is the story of the tail gets longer the more it's told!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Kinda like the fish my buddies and I catch on our annual fishing trip. Shop were you want to shop, makes no difference to me!

Jeff, Good luck with the rest of the build!! I personally am glad you didn't throw in the towel! Looking forward to watching the rest of this one!! Much heap good mojo the rest of the way!!!! jwrass

Pete, Interesting concept! Just like many of the die cast cars, I wish you could buy them in a raw kit form ( I know some companies used to offer that) and paint detail etc to your favorite car driver what ever. I personally don't think I would buy one just for the mechanics of putting one together but if it was offered in a plain jane version , it would be very tempting. thanks for sharing!!!!! jwrass