jwrass

#3 Alison, Elvis Costello, #6 Stacy's Mom (artist ?)

Snake, 9 Inch slicks what are they good for! Absolutely nothing huh!!!!!! I just thought Id bust your chops. See ya on Name That Tune Jimmy "RASS"

Michael, I with you on the bling factor. If you still want some shinny I'd strip the kit chrome and use one of the metalizer type paints. I personally like the trim pieces on the Hot Rods the color of the car or a stainless brushed type finish (not paint brush, A metal finished process that has a grain pattern) In my opinion I think the eyes naturally go to the shiny at fist glance. I know many times when I go to cars shows that's what my eyes do and I overlook the rest of the build.

Ben, My two cents! I recently got back into the hobby as well after a 30 year hiatus. It's my plan to stay in the hobby because I am really enjoying myself. The first model I built I did brush paint the smaller parts and airbrushed the body, I did it that way to start to develop my skill set again. I was pretty pleased with my results. My current build I'm going full bore all out with details. My thought process is that's really how I want to build, why wait. I won't develop my skills if I don't do the work. I'm jumping into the deep end of the pool.

Brett, Great Job!!!! I used to see that car run back in the day at Great Lakes Dragway in Union Grove, WI. Sunday!!!!!!! Sunday!!!!!!! I think you nailed the paint spot on!!!! Love the old funny cars. Great builds

Snake, I didn't think anyone would get Drivers Seat for awhile. For me it's still one of the best bass riff intros out there 2) AKA Alice Cooper

If this is litigated (which it will be) the only ones who will win will be the attorneys.

Ok I have ten here have at it! 1) Don't say words your gonna regret Don't let the fire get to your head 2) Well we can't salute you Can't find a flag If that don't suite ya That's a drag 3) She Swept me off my feet Made my whole world seem so complete 4) It was easy as fishin You can be a musician If you can make sounds loud and mellow 5) I guess I should have kept my mouth shut when I start to brag about my car 6) Jinny was sweet She always smiled for the people she'd meet 7) Raven hair Ruby lips Sparks fly from her finger tips 8) Girl I can't understand it, why you want to hurt me After all of the things I've done for you 9) Put your right hand out Give a firm handshake 10) I was born six gun in my hand behind a gun I'll make my final stand I just found this thread today. What a great way to have some fun. I am pretty good at music trivia however in full disclosure I have been listening to my iTunes today on shuffle and jotted ten down for the fun of it! Range is 60s-80s Some are pretty lame, But I don't have both oars in the water anyway. jrass

On the Zep song Liven Lovin Maid, I used to sing alone with whatever came into my head, I didn't know the lyrics either. Years ago in Jimmy Page was interviewed by Rolling Stone and he claimed that, that was the most misunderstood lyric from their music. He set the record straight that's the only reason I knew it. I'd still be singing whatever! Yes it is the first lyrics of the song!

Yes the rest of the story. The family will indeed take him to court! Irony of the whole situation is how the father came out and made damaging statements about Tony from the get go! Being a father I can't even imagine what the Ward family is going through loosing a son and my prayers go out to them. Litigation will not bring their son back. They will never get over the loss of their son! I hope they try to move on with their lives as soon as possible to let the heeling begin. Truly a tragedy! The young man used very poor judgement. Wheeling a spirit car when stone cold sober is a handful in itself. Impaired not so good, I hope others learn a lesson from this!

With a purple umbrella and a fifty cent hat

Take me to the River, Talking heads

Chris, I am blown away at how gorgeous that beast looks on the stands. I always look forward to your posts! You are making great progress! The Shapeways parts look great. I have some suspension pieces of theirs for Indy Cars. Just as a FYI when the parts are really small you have to be veeeeeeeeeeeery gentle with them. I am prepping them for some primer and they feel like they want to break, I haven't broken any yet (jix) I'd be curious to see just a portion cleaned up of the ones that look like they have powered sugar on them. Looking forward to the next post! Jimmy "RASS"

Jason, That is a excellent Idea as a school project!!! The link that Joe Long posted has some really great information! Based on the terminology the author uses it is text book HVAC lingo, I looked it over and I only found one flaw, the rule of thumb for fiction loss in flex pipe is more like 4 to 5 times (he listed 3) If it were me I would print all of the information there. All the calculations are done and the blueprint he has looks great. I would build it as per plan. Good luck! jwrass

notafinga Ole School, Christmas Story was correct! I clicked the arrow button on the right upper corner and it deleted you answer Every year I watch a good portion of the 24 hour play, I love the way the ole man swears, My daughter has the script and it's a hoot to read along as we watch the video Jimmy "RASS"

These cans are defective

Monty, Yes Ferrari doe's use a pinkish base coat before topcoats of red ( not all Ferraris are red but they should be) Many OEM finishes require a certain color of primer to get a seamless color blend ( the same color primer they used at the factory) Primers color can definitely change the hue of the top coat. Color and Hue are different as it pertains to terminology. When I started painting (the stone age) we had three colors of primer Red, Lite Grey, and dark Grey, it was actually black. Today with certain brands you can mix primer to what ever color you want! No limits, I personally would not shoot a stock red over white unless it's a custom effect as it turns a pinkish shade. I use white pearl as a base coat but only for custom finishes with striking results. I once painted a friends MGB(stone age) he did all the body work sanding all I had to do was shoot it. The original paint job was a dark maroon and he wanted a color change to white. When he brought it to the shop all we had to do was mask it and paint it. it looked like a car would look before you do a repaint, OEM paint here and there, primer where repairs were made. He got the box of materials out of the trunk and he didn't buy any sealer, typically on a color change you spray a colored sealer to have a uniform color to put your top coat on and to prevent bleed through, sand scratches areas of bare metal. I told him we needed sealer to prevent bleed through it was a Sunday and we couldn't get any sealer. I told him what could happen and he said shoot it anyway.The car was basically a beater that he fixed up so it wasn't like it was a prize. I shot the white over the maroon and primer spots it took many coats to get coverage but we finally got it white. The paint we used was Dupont Dulux Enamel. We went in the house had a few beers to kill some time so we could unmask it. When we went into the shop the areas that were maroon looked like a soft pink blush. I was like oh blah blah because the recoat of the type of paint back then was 30 days so he would have to drive his Mary Kay car around for a month. We pulled the car in the shop locked it up and he was going to come and get it the next day. Before I went to work I open up the shop to take a peek at the pink nightmare and 95.5% of the car had turned back to white. To this day I have no idea why the paint went back to white but I was thankful because I didn't have to reshoot it. The moral of the story is I broke all the rules and got very lucky. jwrass

Steve, Bill (Ace) is a professional 1:1 body technician and painter ( and so much more his resume is very impressive) he and I are about the same age and came though the ranks of custom shops and builders where the work had to be show quality.(you can view my resume on my profile) If you follow his advice you will have success. Mr Obsessive makes some great point as well. As do others I'd give you my two cents but I thinks the gang has it under control! I can see you have made great progress since you first started the thread. Keep up the good work! You'll get there. jwrass

Chris, I have been following along and haven't commented in a while. Looking fantastic!!!!! I'm a very patent person but man oh man. When you do your sanding and prep work on the huffer do you speak in tongues, see mirages of unicorns and twitch Perfection by very skilled hands and mind (well maybe not the mind!!! lol) I enjoy and look forward to each post. Keep them coming Chris! I wish you continued success on the build!, Jimmy "RASS"

Jason, To build a proper booth by definition it would be a fully enclosed. Tom Shirley's design is a excellent example. The pump showed on your link is a bilge pump and would be manufactured as such to be spark free. The booth I am building is simple but complex (I know that's a paradox) as it will have variable supply and exhaust speed mapping. A dehumidification cycle with reheat, a heated drying cycle. The intake and exhaust will be filtered. Parts of my prototype are from pieces of HVAC equipment that I have cannibalized. When I get it dialed in all parts will be new. I am fortunate to be able to have access to these parts to make my Frankenbooth after I do all the testing and am satisfied with it's performance I will build Frankenbooths bride. All of my components will be 120 volt including the exhaust fan however, the electrical components will not be in the airstream ( much like Paces configuration, check out Paces web site for example) I don't know if Bills booth was in the trial stage! There is one thing that kills the efficiency of air flow is long runs of flex duct. The nature of this product has a high rate of fiction loss which slows the airspeed down which equals less air flow. I see flex duct on HVAC systems abused every day. Industry standards are there shall be no flex duct from a hard connection no longer than ten feet and in my opinion that's pushing it. We try to keep our flex connections five to eight feet. 95% of my intake and exhaust feeds will be galvanized snap lock pipe and fittings. Even if the exhaust is filtered their will be some of the components that you are exhausting that will pass through the filter and some of what you are exhausting will stick to the ducting. Eventually maintenance will have to be performed. Due to the nature of how the flex duct is manufactured their are bumps and humps that will be prone to having the material stuck to it (if you have ever cleaned flex duct on the discharge of a clothes dryer you will know what I mean) Hard duct is smooth and less prone to having the material stick to it. You will still have to maintain it but not as often and you will have very little to clean. It's my educated guess that if a person does allot of spraying the first five feet of flex duct from the discharge of the booth will pretty much be trash as it pertains to cleaning it when maintenance is performed. One would be better off replacing it vs trying to clean it unless you have allot of time to burn. Just my opinion! If you are going to build a booth do it right the first time! If finances are a factor due it as over a period of time as finances permit. Do it right the first time! I know I will be building mine twice so I guess I'm not practicing what I preach however, I will have allot going on with mine and I'm sure I will have to adjust or change things ( I already have) I want to do all my tests and changes to the Frankenbooth after that is complete I will build one that is real pretty. jwrass

As a professional HVAC engineer I submit the following: 1) Any Standard bathroom exhaust fan is not spark free and therefore is NOT explosion proof. 2) They are NOT waterproof. 3) Their is absolutely no correlation between sewer gas and anything to do with sewer pipe connections to a bathroom exhaust fan. In fact it is illegal in all 50 states by code to make a hard connection from a sewer vent to a bathroom exhaust because they are NOT explosion proof. and sewer gas is. I.E. sewer gas and sparks equal kaboom!!!!! The principle of keeping sewer gas from the space is called the weir principle or more commonly a P trap. When the trap is filled with water it creates a seal from the room space to the sewer discharge piping(waste and vent) to prevent sewer gas from entering the space. All venting by code shall be terminated 6 to 8 inches above the roof line. Even if all of your traps should dry up if the venting system has been installed properly there should never be a situation where you should smell sewer gas because the vent termination is at a negative pressure as it relates to the indoor space pressure (chimney effect) if you ever smell sewer gas you have problems in the piping and by all means have it checked out. I have seen the aftermath of sewer gas explosions, not one has been pretty The intent of a bathroom fan is to remove moisture when you bathe or shower and smell from the space when you drop the kids off at the pool. Nothing more nothing less. P.S. Please stop using bathroom exhausts for so called booths, they are not intended for that use! I don't want too sound like a jag wad but by definition none of you are building spray booths they are exhaust systems. By definition a booth is a enclosure with treated incoming air and treated exhaust air. Due to a injury that has not allowed me to work since July 10th I have been working on a prototype on and off that will be a scaled down version of the 1:1 types of which we have installed many. It will have fully conditioned incoming air (no more waiting for that perfect day to paint, paint during a hurricane) and fully conditioned exhaust air. Due to my limited mobility It has been a challenge and I'm far from done but to me it is a thing of beauty. All of the equipment has been designed to 1/24, 1/25 scale taken from specifications of a 1:1 booth. I hope it works as good as concept. P.S.S. Tom I had not looked at your post of your booth when I wrote this. My apologies! Now that's a booth!!!! great job Tom!!! I would be interested how you like it and how it performs!!! Again super job!!!!!

Ace, I figured as much that's why I asked. In the supplement their is no disclaimer but I'm not looking for a cease and desist notice or naughty points. Thanks much "RASS"

Joe, Mo, Mo, Joe, Sorry for calling you Mo! Joe, For Airbrushing Lacquer I just use Big Box Store thinners, It dries fast, it's great for clean up and it's less expensive than the automotive brands. For Urethanes I typically use a fast thinner due to the nature of the work I do (see my profile) I use HOK # 310 fast dry. I would use the same thinner (and have) for models as I have many years with spray equipment in my hands. For someone who is just beginning I would recommend a Medium dry reducer as it will help the paint flow out smoother. It's trickier to apply than the fast dry but I think it will give you the results you are looking for, nice and shinny vs a fast dry reducer, the fast dries fairly quick and you may get discouraged because you most likely won't get the nice and shinny look with your first attempts. I have many brands of airbrushes and my choice Is Iwata, I have a Eclipse HP-CS and that is a excellent brush!!!! Wow now the psi question!!!! due to the nature of the work I do it can be from 10-60 psi. I have been doing this for so long I pay more attention to how the paint is falling on the surface and the technique or effect I am trying to achieve. For a model I would say anywhere between 20-30 psi. PSI has a direct relationship to how you reduce your paint too. My best advice is to practice on a old body or a sheet of styrene. What works for me may not work for you, experiment, find what works for you! Watch the surface as you lay down the paint and try to maintain a 50% overlap on the spray pattern. You will develop a cadence that is right for you with time and practice. If the surface is grainy and funky you are moving to slow and to far away from the surface. If you move to slow or close most of the paint will be on your floor or shoes or both. You will blow a paint job or two get used to it, We have all done it and will all do it again. Learn from it! the best advice I can give you is practice, practice, practice. I have been doing this type of work since I was 16 years old and I still practice and experiment. If you have the passion and patience you will succeed!! Hit me up anytime, I am always willing to share! jwrass

Mo, I have 35+ years working with HOK products. I have their full catalog binders dating back to the 1970s on a shelf right in front of me. Not the freebee slicks that they give out, the ones that are sold for mucho $$$$ I get gratis for various reasons so I believe I can help. I will need to ask you some questions to reply to all of your questions however I will answer what I can now. In your opening statement you said "9 40 bottles" I'm guessing the nine is the count of bottles what is the 40? is that the measurement of contents in the bottle? Is the paint Urethane or Lacquer? The following are answers to the questions as you have them listed. 1) You can use any lacquer or urethane primer. Do not use any type of enamel type primer. 2) When you purchase these type of paints pigments (color) play a factor in pricing. Sample example: If you pay $5 dollars for White you most likely will pay $10 for Red in the same measurement, for this example lets just say this is 1 oz. 3) They do have some colors that do not need to be cleared however 95%+ of their products need a clear coat. 4) No! Only the suppliers that choose to cater to the Kustom paint market and qualify to resell their product HOK used to be a privately owned company, It is now owned by Valpar Automotive Finishes. Neither one of the suppliers that I purchase my HOK sell Valspar OEM automotive finishes. I would think that any Valspar distributor could get this product for you If the suppler chooses to sell it to the GQ public or if your state has laws that prevent the resale of this product to non professionals. You can purchase any of the HOK online, one excellent source that I use is Coast Airbrush. 5) I use the reducer that is made for the product line first followed by Lacquer thinner. 6) I really don't understand the question, but if you are asking will it stick to metal the answers is yes however the piece should be primed first. 7) The HOK primers are safe on resin however they are expensive! Their Chemistry (HOK ) is much different than Tamiya or Alclad. You don't need to use HOK primers as a under coat Tamiya will work fine. I don't no about Alclad as I have never used their primer my guess would be yes. Just make sure the primers you use are not enamel based. I hope this helps HOK is a great product. Opps I didn't check the link on amazon before I wrote this. I will check it now and respond in a few. jwrass Edit: The products for sale are by TPC global which is a good company. I have purchased air tools from them and have been satisfied. The listing is for a quantity of 9, 4 ounce bottles. The description is very vague as to what bases, colors, etc that you get. I went to Coasts Site and the average price for a 4 oz bottle is $14.00. 9x$14= $126.00 so that would be a very good price however, I would buy based on the colors I know I want to use. If you don't plan to use half of the colors then only you can determine if it's worth the cost! By the same token if you are looking to experiment with various products of the HOK line I would say it's a deal! If it were me I would call TCP and ask what's included in the package. If it's not what you want you can ask if they can do a ala cart package of your choice, it's worth asking you at least have a 50/50 chance of getting what you want. I think we have all the questions you asked covered! If you have anymore give a shout! jwrass

Bill, Thanks for the pictures and the text! Most Excellent!!!!! I sent you a pm on Sept 12 Did you receive it? I have had some problems with pm's that's why I ask. Jimmy "RASS"