Pete J.

Sorry, I actually tried to take this over to a separate thread, but the weird problems I am having with this web site (and it is only this one) wouldn’t let me post the new thread. Just like to post on an active thread I have to start with a quote from someone else and delete their text. I’ve given up reporting it. I don’t have any problems on the IPMS web site and it has the same moderator and the same format. Don’t know what is wrong but it has been ongoing for quite some time. Sorry for the inconvenience.

First off I wasn't pointing a finger at anyone in particular. I just dislike the use of that phrase to self discribe someone who builds for their own collection. My problem is that the phrase is so often used in this fashion. I build for myself, followed by some form of I don't do this or I don't do that. My point is that it is used indisciminently and followed by my modeling is differant from yours because I don't ... Well, we all build for ourself. I build some models that never get out of my work room. I build some for other people. I build some for competiton. I build some for instructional purposes. The point is that ultimately I get pleasure out of building all of them. Each way has it's own gratification so each is build in some way for what I get out of it. I build for myself. By the same token, I always build to my own standard. I get a great deal of pleasure out of building the next model better than the last but it is always about building for me. Nobody gets more pleasure out of my builds that I do. I build for myself. In other words, say what you mean! I build for myself may mean something to you that it doesn't mean to anyone else and really doesn't convey what you are trying to communicate. Drop the phrase and say what it is that you do or don't do. We all build for ourselves in some fashion.

First off I wasn't pointing a finger at anyone in particular. I just dislike the use of that phrase to self discribe someone who builds for their own collection. My problem is that the phrase is so often used in this fashion. I build for myself, followed by some form of I don't do this or I don't do that. My point is that it is used indisciminently and followed by my modeling is differant from yours because I don't ... Well, we all build for ourself. I build some models that never get out of my work room. I build some for other people. I build some for competiton. I build some for instructional purposed. The point is that ultimately I get pleasure out of building all of them. Each way has it's own gratification so each is build in some way for what I get out of it. I build for myself. By the same token, I always build to my own standard. I get a great deal of pleasure out of building the next model better than the last but it is always about building for me. Nobody gets more pleasure out of my builds that I do. I build for myself. In other words, say what you mean! I build for myself may mean something to you that it doesn't mean to anyone else and really doesn't convey what you are trying to communicate. Drop the phrase and say what it is that you do or don't do. We all build for ourselves in some fashion.

It is not the iphone that is the issue. I was told at the apple store by one of their reps that you had to go through iTunes to up load pictures to the iPad. I like the Samasung because I hook it up to my computer through a USB port and the computer reads it as another storage device. Makes transfer very quick and easy.

I am getting a little annoyed at the use of the term “I build for myself” as if it were some sanctimonious act that the rest of us don’t engage in. All of us build for ourselves! Our purposes vary. Some build to enter contests, others for money, etc. There are a thousand good reasons to be creative but ultimately we all build because we enjoy some aspect of the hobby, thus it is for our own gratification. If you don’t do something else, please say so. “I don’t build to enter contest” or whatever else motivates you. Please!

One of the major issues and I have seen several comments before this is additions to a basic kit. Yes, people can throw a lot of aftermarket stuff on a model and it looks like ######, but a skilled modeler will make additions to a model that will dramatically improve it. Mark Jones super 7's are a perfect example. Ultimately he has created masterpieces made with parts he created that the average model builder doesn't have either the skill or the equipment to create. It results in a supurb replica. He is getting credit for scratch building parts because they are done right. When it was done, there are not a lot of other models that could sit on the table and be competative. It would take another master years of work to achieve the same level. Building masterworks like that take years. There for you don't see them all that often and when they do show up, they clean up. The point is the modeler who take the time to learn the skills to scratch build properly has an advantage, but it is a skill advantage. That builder can do a better job of showing off the effort with documentation. Putting a binder on the table that highlights the effort can sway a decision and adds a wow factor when you see the effort. At this level it is hard to decide which model is best but All things being equal which almost never happens at this level the guy who documents the effort will generally get the advantage because he showes the effort he went to in creating the masterpiece.

Hey Harry----!!! Is this officially the longest runing thread yet???

My opinion, for the little that it is worth is this. The balance should be tipped for the person who made their own parts reguardless of the methods used. My point here is that the type of construction is not relevant. Case in point is turned aluminum parts. They have been around for years and the person who buyes his parts verse the person who owns a lathe and turns his own is significant. Same applies to 3D printed parts. If you make them youself there is a differant skill level involved than the person who buys them off the shelf. By the way, we already have 3D printed parts on the shelf for models. Well, kind of. Icon Models http://www.iconautomotiveminiatures.com/ started making rain tires for Formula 1 cars. Although the product that you get is cast resin he did the art work on CAD and sent it to an contract protype maker for the 3D printing for the masters. This is becoming much more common so you really have the final product coming from a 3D printer. So, at a contest, two identical models both built to the same standard(hypothecial possiblity, real life unlikely) the modeler who does all his own work(scratch builder), gets an advantage over the builder who buys his stuff from a third party.

Thanks for the info and opinion guys! I decided to go with a Samsung Galaxy Not 10.1 16GB. My resoning is this. I can conect directly to my PC and don't have to mess with the going through iTunes to up load pictures. It has a slot for microSD card and I can increase the memory up to 32 GB. It has an attachment that lets me use regular SD cards and thumb drives. Most of my cameras have SD card. Also very important, I was able to pick it up at Costco for $350 with a $50 leather carrying case included. Right now I am happy. I have already downloaded 150 photos for my 956 build and the screen quality is exellent. I like being able to blow them up to see detail. It is small enough that it doesn't take up a lot of space for a 10" monitor and seems to fit in my shop rather well. Thanks again for all who participated.

I'm not much help. I grew up there and am still a rabid Huskers fan. Lived in SoCal for the last 24 years. Still have family in Sidney.

Thing is that it is a collectors car and was never a great driver. They didn't make a lot of hemi convertables because of frame flex. The guys who wanted true performance hemi's went for the coupe because the chassis was much stiffer and didn't flex as much under power. Yea, it is a collectors car but it is a long way from being the"best" 'cuda IMOH.

I am about to start another long term project and this may seem a weird question but here are the basics. 1. I have about 125 photos of the 1:1 car that I would like to have with me on the bench. 2. I was about to print them when the cost of paper and ink kind of hit me! 3. I have been considering a tablet for a while and it dawned on me that I could save the cost of paper and ink and load them on a tablet and it would save me the space of a large note book filled with photos(the 935 turned out to be a 3 inch binder). 4. I have a windows based PC 5. I don't need telephone connectivity and have a droid photo. So, does anyone have any suggestions about which would be an optimal solution and if you have a tablet, do you use it for referance photos as descibed?

Actually, I'm going to say real. This looks like a museum piece.

A good mug of tea(constant comment is my poison) and an english muffing with peanut butter and jelly. Cartologist recommented. 4 heart attacks modifies you diet. Low fat, low caffeen and we still get going.

This may be a bit hard to belive but the Majors(Tamiya, Hasagawa etc.) Don't produce much of their stuff in Japan. They do the design work and cut the molds, but for the most part production occures elsewhere. Tamiya has plants in Brazil and either Singapore or the Phillipines. Having said that, it is likely that the US could do the same thing at a similar price. Labor prices in Japan are not cheap. This is why the small guys like MFH cost $125. Well, part of the reason.

I guess I am on the rivet counter side but i have to say that there are limits for me. There was mention at several points the Tamiya teases their kits a little for asthetics and I would like to add a bit more to this. If you read S. Tamiya's book he goes a bit more into detail that makes a lot of sense. We view our models and the real cars from very differant perspectives. 1:1's are most typically seen at just below eye level. Our models on the other hand are most often seen more from above. In other words, to view our models the same way we do the real thing, you would have to slam your chin on the table and keep it there. The reverse would be to see the real thing from a cherry picker. Neither of which we do on a routine basis. With that in mind an exact replica would look off and tweeking it improves the persective so we see what we expect to see. So, rivet counter, yes, but I don't measure wheel bases and bumper to bumper dimentions like some. I am more of a "if it looks right, I'm happy" sort. The rivet counting for me comes in adding correct detail. Wire that sucker up and add nuts and bolts where appropriate, throw in some turned aluminum and photoetched and I am a happy camper.

Do you have a web site for these? I found them but not for $10.

Low, clean and designed with purpose. Ideal design- Ford GT 40 Mark 2. Very aerodynamic, everything done to make it go faster around a road course. I also like a very voluptious line from bumper across the fender to the back bumper, i.e. just about anything from Pinifarina or Scaglietti, especially in the late 50's early 60's. Just made me drool.

The real deal. I would recognize the Dodge Deora anywhere. I must have built a hundred of them as a kid. Great choice for the bicentennial Harry.

But Harry wouldn't stoop to posting a kit car would you Harry?

Wow David - You hear that rattling noise in the back ground??? That is my mind being boggled! :blink: I have to call Matthew and get a set of these! I don't care what he is charging. Pete

Turn it upside down and drip a little lacquer thinner between the lid and the treads so it fills the area between. Give it a minute or so and don't let it dry. By the way the easiest way is to clean the top and threads throughly with thinner everytime after you open it. I now, it is more work that way, but it is easier than struggling with a jar that just won't open.

Being the owner of a sports car, this one is really simple. The Audi is running on summer performance tires. The mini van is probably on all weathers. If you have ever driven in the wet on high performance summer tires you know that they really, really suck in the wet. I drive like I am on ice when it rains. Cornering in the wet the car just goes straight to under/no steer and try the brakes at your peril. The ABS kicks in the minute you touch the pedal. Kind of like watching an F1 race when the rain comes. Cars off the road everywhere. Now take away the wet and the Audi would climb up the backside of that minivan in about a half a lap.

Here is another one you might find interesting. http://www.michaels.com/Fiskars%C2%AE-Fingertip-Swivel-Knife/sb1612,default,pd.html?start=85&cgid=products-scrapbooking-fiskars

Got to agree with Mark. To build a really fantastic model you have to be passionate about the subject matter. The time and effort it takes to do the research and getting the detailing right requires more than a passing interest. Entering a contest or an NNL is an opportunity to share that passion with others. Many of my best modeling buddies are people I met at contests. I don't think I ever consider judges when I am building. If I did that my models would not have half the detail(all the stuff that winds up hidden or very obscure) they do.