Pete J.

Gentlemen - Thank you for your kind complements. You are all quite right about costs, but then I have to point out that large scale takes much longer to build and to me that is a big plus. You see, I feel that 95% of the fun in models is the building so the longer it takes the better for me! I would guesstimate that the Porsche is 1:24 scale times a factor of 8. I can build a small scale in about 8 to 10 months. This beast took 3 1/2 years. A top quality SMS set for 1:24 is $100 to $150. This one was over $600. I don't have a clue how much I spent on scratch building supplies, wires, paint and other bits and pieces but it was a lot. I also used two kits because the engine in the photo is a separate display. The car has an engine in it but is only visible from the bottom and is detailed on the bottom only. To make matters worse, this was the second one of these that I built. Last 5 years, 2 completed large scale cars, one oob Ferrari F1, and three Hasegawa egg planes. Oh, yes an Aerobase photo etched Graf Zeppelin. Not much production, but probably more fun than I would have had it I had built 10 small scale cars. Indeed, large scale is a form of insanity all in it's own. As I said before, only those who have tried it truly understand. Now, where did it put that Jagermeister 934 kit

'K, we can do that. I have posted wip photos before and got a bit of a luke warm reception. Here ya go!

Shrimp is a crustatian, nada fish. Whistle, Whistle - You! owd uf da pool!

Now that's one I didn't know about. I believe it was sold in the US as a Kadett GT.

I was having a chat with some friends the other day, and the subject turned to car as it often does. We got to talking about names and came to the conclusion that there were not a lot of production cars with English names of fish. In fact we could only come up with three - Barracuda/'cuda, Marlin and Stingray. We didn't include names like Mako Shark because that was a show/prototype car. We were only after production cars. Anybody out there with other names? If it is a rare or unusual car, if you could throw a photo up, that would be nice. Have fun with this one.

Transport of large scale vehicles take a bit more car. Each one I have done, I have had to make t special box for. They all have had to be airline qualified. This one is exactly one inch smaller in each dimention than acceptable for carry on luggage.

I agree with most of the above and would add a bias that I had for years and will now recant. "Big scale is easier because it is bigger." Bologna!! I have discovered that 1:12 scale is far harder to build because there is far more detail to get it right. For instance, on my 935 I have bolt head that measure as small at .010" in diameter, and I used a lot of them. Most 1:24 scale builders don't even use bolts that small. There are also hundreds of screw heads and A/N fittings. I would estimate that it takes at least a factor of 10 times the number of parts between 1:12 and 1:24. On top of that getting a perfect paint job on large scale is far harder because you have at least 4 times the surface to cover. It seems to take forever to polish out a large scale project. It ain't easier because its bigger, but until you have tried it you don't know.

I'm a sucker for the wheel weights and in two different sizes too! That right rear has some real balance problems. That's a lot of weight in one spot. Had to go real, though first reaction was model. Notice how I tap dance around to give myself an out if I am wrong? Notice how most of us do the same thing?? Pretty cool uh?

This is about breakfast, not health! After 4 heart attacks I can dream with the best of them. This mornings breakfast was a pear, a cup of decaf tea, and a bowl of plain oatmeal. Yck! But it does the job. The dream is far better!

Biscuits and sausage gravy, hash browns done crisp, a side of corn beef hash and a cup of Joe, hot with heavy cream and sugar. Now that's a breakfast!

Very nice long tail!! I especially like the glass work. That is a part that always drives me nuts. Kit parts are either too thick or have seams in inappropriate places. Nice build.

Gotta go with real on this one. At any rate it was shot out doors for real.

I just have to add that I agree with a the members of this thread. The old Group 4 & 5 racers are really great looking cars. For the most part they look like street cars that really got a strong dose of steroids! They were also brutal to drive. Porsche practically invented a new definition of turbo lag. Watching the turbo kick in at mid corner was fun to watch, but it took a skilled driver to handle the thing. Great racing and great looking cars. Keep it up guys. I love to see all these old cars.

Thank you! As to the future, my wife has a "honey do" list as long as your arm. Actually I have a number of unfinished projects that got started but hit the back burner in the process of this build. I have a CLK Merc, a couple of Surfit's and some egg planes that I want to do. I also have 4 more of these. A K3 comes to mind.

To Hawaii because you had an earthquake??? Volcano capital of the US. They had 13 shakers in the last week an 3 today! If your going for the warm tropical breezes, great, but not to get away from the shifting earth.

Done - After 3 + years. It has been an incredible amount of fun!

3.8 40 miles for Chicago. Hmmm Pretty common activity here in SoCal. For those who are interested here is the USGS map for all the shakes in the US in the last couple of weeks. http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/recenteqsus/ I noticed that there was one in Texas as well. Enjoy. Mother nature is not to be messed with.

Do a little each day and you get done. Here is the air intake on the right fender. Tamiya screen with an SMS photo etched overlay. I used a railroaders product called Blacken It to make the piece black. It is an acid etch that blackens metal on the surface. You have to dip the metal in a baking soda bath after to stop the acid. Gives metal a real aged look.

I'm going with the herd after the hammering we took last week. My guess is based on what I see in the reflections in the paint.

Next step is to get the front clip attached to the rest of the body. I had to attach the hood temporarily with pins and some .016" wire to get it positioned correctly. Then the front clip is lined up and glued with the front air screens in place. Not an easy alignment.

Well, parts are comming togeather. The hood is now finished with the striker plates for the hood pins and the Porsche badge in place. The glass is done. I replaced the Tamiya piece with Squadron Termoform plastic. Much thinner and no distortions. The window clips are also in place A lot more detail work on the body to go, but the project is nearing the end.

6,000 Canadian

Very nice pick Harry! I voted real and then had second thoughts. I did a little research and realized we been had! But research ain't play'n by the rules. Vote first then look if you have to. The give away was the brake rotors. The holes were drilled incorrectly. That was the only thing I could see. Very nice model

Harry, I've never had a problem like you describe either, but I have had some thin decals that have been dinged with the simple touch of a fingernail. My current project has a number of "patches" just due to inadvertent bits. Of course being a 1:12 scale piece it has enough decal to cover two 1:24 scale pieces, so there is a high level of exposure. As I mentioned before this is always a hot topic with both sides full of very strong opinions. Every time I have see this come up, there are a lot of strong arguments for both sides. Personal preference wins no matter what. It even trumps "how it is done on the real car", but it still is important for the builder to do the research if you are going to compete with the model. If you do, don't surprised when the opinion of the judge disagrees with you, though I will say that I have never seen a judge knock any one down for failure to clear coat. I have frequently see a deduction for not getting rid of the excess carrier film at the edge.

Drew - Good to hear from you again. I use a set of surgical scissors. The ER that my wife works in, throws out dozens for pair a week. They come in a kit and when they are done with a patient, every thing goes out, used or not. They are very sharp and have a great point for getting into the tight spots. When they get dull, I toss them and get another pair, but generally they are good for quite a while. I still get a bit of a raised edge, but you are right about using a hobby knife. I just don't like any edge at all. Of course a lot of the cars I build are from the 60's and 70's and they were mostly painted. The 935 stripes and all the sponsors were hand painted according to all the resource that I have, so whether I use paint or decal, it would be correct to clear over them as they were glossy on the real car. Kind of like what you do with the hand painted numbers and decorations on early dirt trackers and stock cars. Maybe I am just a bit beyond the pale. Personal preference and all. Incidentally, Skip has got me making my own decals and sometimes I need to double them up with a white background so that makes the edge double thick. Not much you can do about that. Thanks for the advise Drew.