Pete J.

Great news Gregg!

The smallest size wire I have seen is .005". Small parts carries a lot of differant wires. I buy from them with frequency and love their stuff. Here is the web site - www.smallparts.com Just search "AWX". Lots of sizes. They use to carry as small as .001 but I see it is out of stock.

Na, got to be a Sub-burban

Ok, here is a good use for the microfiber towels. If you put one in the bottom of the box that you carry your model in, it won't slide around. I know is sound dumb, but the microfiber towels seem to grip most surfaces and a model can sit on one and it just won't move in normal transportation. It is really kind of cool.

Boy, this is a tough one. Being an old fiberglass drag racer, the body looks about right and I really don't see anything that would blow the images. The only part I don't like is the Plymouth sprayed on the spoiler. Looks a lot like an airbrush rather than a rattle can. The front end painted lights etc. look about right. I'm going real. Not a lot of clues in this one.

Differant paints require differant removers. I have seen the reverse on some paints and have had to use both(SuperKlean for the chrome and brake fluid for the under coat). 91% alcohol, (on the model stupid! Not in the modeler! ) also is needed some times. You also need to be careful, as each of these can react with differant formulations of plastic and you wind up with an nicely cleaned pile of goo! In reality it is just like using paint thinners. You don't use enamal thinners on acrylics, etc.

Gregg - All the guys from the San Diego Model Car Club are looking forward to seeing you and any other members of the forum at the NNL Sunday in San Diego! See you all there!

I'm going with real on this one, but there is one detail that bothers me. I can't remember if the beast has drilled rotors or not. I know the new cars do, but this is from a transition era. If I could remember, it may be the one detail that would give it away.

Gregg- This was one of the early complaints about the car. There is no chrome on the car anywhere. Lots of bare metal, but no chrome. The exhaust headers are stainless steel, the suspension is a coated metal, the heat shields are aluminum, the knock offs are aluminum on the '66 and anodized red and blue on the '67s, etc.

So Harry - you got something special planned for #100???

I agree. Real from photoshop. She be the Obamamobile.

Hmm, I guess Gregg is back on island time. Just remeber Gregg you asked for the buggin'. Any current opinions? Just a hint. Please?

Heck, Harry, you can build the entire thing from scratch(ala Wingrove) if you are willing to invest the time and money! I just spent the afternoon at Sherline and their museum is awe inspiring. Compaired to that stuff, we are just wacking on rocks with flint hammers! Running V 4s and Offenhausers in 1:8 scale. Come on, there is always something better. Unfortunately, I have other things to invest my time in. It is a choice and each of us makes it. I am not willing to invest that much time in this model. My choice I would love to see some one do it though.

By no means write it off. SMS has made some great points. A lot of the kit goes together very nicely and Matthew said so. The issue is that it will probably make a very nice shelf model. For the person who uses SMS detail sets(I have 5 935 sets, just completing my 2nd) we are use to making a museum quality reproduction. Unfortunately, this kit will not be that with out a lot of replacement parts. Prominent structures will take a lot of effort to remake. For instance - on the real car, the rear body work is held in place by a delicate framework of tubes that bolt to the trans axle. There are two luggage boxes(yea, in that era one of the requirements was that a car be able to carry two standard Samsonite suitcases) are incorporated into that frame. The kit has what look like two large 2X4's coming out of the rear to hold it in place. A similar structure occurs in front to hold the front body work in place. This is major surgery. Also, the suspension looks IMHO very toy like. It looks like Trumpeter was more concerned with making "working suspension" and getting it to look right. I don't know about you, but it screams "toy" to me. I really don't care if it works. I am not going to play with it on the floor. To get that "working" they had to make compromises in the size of the members and the struts. The brakes are just ugly and the calipers are all wrong. Now having said that, it is just a matter of how you build. If you want a really nice model for your display cabinet, this is just that. The exterior and the rims are spot on. I hope someone casts some replacement rear tires as the profile is wrong(fronts look OK). I am sure that someone will take is kit and lavish a lot of time and effort on it and get all the details right, but it will be a multi-year project and I will stand in awe of that persons. It just won't be me doing it. I have three more 935's to build.

Hmmmm, ok, guess you ment this weekend Oh well, if you get it out any time soon, I'll be happy.

'K, Gregg - Consider yur sef bugggged. I juss no, i'ss got ta be weekend ober 'n haywiya!

Model all the way. Chrome don't look right.

Here is a Gunze on e bay. They come up all the time. http://cgi.ebay.com/Gunze-Sangyo-1-24-scal...%3A1%7C294%3A50

Ok, Gregg - It has been a couple of weeks and lots of silence. Any more comments? Please. The silence is deafening.

Actually the V10 block started life as a truck engine!

I have a simple comment to add to this. It doesn't matter as long as all the models are judged on a equal basis! ...and what is the differance between and Optivisor and a pair of high powered reading glasses? Frankly, as I approach 60, without some form of assistance, I wouldn't be reading, working on the computer or building models. 2X in my Optivisor is the same as 2X in my reading glasses. I use both. Just make sure that everyone gets the same treatment.

I know a lot of guys like the Bondo, but I prefer Eurosoft two part Glazing compound. It is the same thing that Mark Gustafson uses. It has a much finer grain and hardens to sanding and painting in less than 30 minutes, depending upon the amount of hardener you use. It is the green stuff you see on models. It also does not absorb paint as much as other putties. You can get it at any automotive paint store. For 15$ you get enough to do 10 million models(well that may be an exaggeration, but a whole lot).

Mark - Looking good, but no machined parts?? Just kidding. I know you are going this just for kicks. It is looking great. Love the purple exhaust! These kits are all about artistic license. Keep on keep'n on Dude!! Pete

George - I also remember the car and know that it exists though I don't remember the details. There is a valve stem visible at the 2 o'clock on the front tire, but I don't think this is the real deal. As I recall this was a speed record car, so it would not have had this nice of a paint job. That to me is the giveaway. Cars of this era were mostly painted flat not high gloss. I'm saying it is a model also. Pete

Very nice!! times about 10. All my favorites. I have kits for all. I guess I should get busy and build them. Pete