StevenGuthmiller

I couldn't help myself! I also ordered the new Jimmy Flintstone '61 Olds 88 kit from Model Roundup. I've wanted a '61 Olds bubble top forever & this on looks really nice. I'm really anxious to see if it looks as good as it did on the site! I've never bought a Flintstone kit before. Anybody have any insight? How's the quality? Steve

Just ordered the new Mobius '54 Hudson from Model Roundup. Steve

The '61 Starfire was one of the nicest looking Oldsmobiles ever in my opinion! Steve

You can't even order MCW paints online. You have to print an order form & mail it. So yes, it generally is about a 2 week turn around time. Couple reasons why I like it..... It comes already pre-mixed for airbrush, so there's none of that messing around, They have almost any factory stock color you can imagine, & those that they don't, can be ordered as a special order. The biggest thing for me are the metallic paints. The metallic colors all have metal flakes that are "in scale" for models. Nothing ruins a build more, in my opinion, than flakes that would be the size of a dime on the real car! Steve

Very interesting Tommy! I always hated the top on the Starfire anyway! Steve

I don't use Tamiya paints myself, so I'm not sure. But I believe they are lacquers from what I've read around here. Steve

I use mostly "Plasti Zap" for general gluing but there's a million "super" type glues out there. I stay away from it for glass & anything glued to the exterior like mirrors or any kind of body trim. It'll mess up your paint job quick! For those applications I use Testors "clear parts cement". As far as paint, I think you'll find that most guys use some form of automotive type lacquers. Whether it's Duplicolor or Testors in a spray can, or one of the many paints for airbrushing made for models from suppliers like "House of Kolor", "Model Car World", etc. I like MCW paints myself, but if you use any of these lacquers, make sure you prime accordingly. They'll chew the styrene up & spit it out! Steve

Depends on the type of paint. Enamels take forever to cure! When I was using enamels, many moons ago, I would paint them & then pack them away for at least a couple of months before trying to polish them. Steve

Mmmm, nose oil....my favorite! Steve

I don't know what to say.....It's just beautiful! I usually don't comment on many customs on this forum just because, as a rule, they don't interest me. But, there's no ignoring this one! Steve

That's pretty cool Chuck! The only thing missing are the "obligatory" bullet holes. Steve

Personally, I've never had any issues with Tamiya tape leaving any residue behind. That's what I like about it. It sticks well enough not to allow any bleed under, but is still extremely easy to remove. it's the only Tamiya product I use. Steve

I think '59 was just a tad early for that! Steve

Just came today. A set of original stock hubcaps for my recently acquired '63 Dodge Polara convertible. Steve

White it is! Already got started on clear coats & sanding. I thought it just looked a little more "classic" with the white top. Steve

I didn't think anyone on the planet didn't remember the AMC Pacer! I think most of the world would just as soon forget it now! "Excellent" Bill! Steve

I use a lot of Testors Metallizer paints for engine & chassis parts. It's very easy to work with & looks great. Just be warned, it's rather fragile & doesn't hold up well to a lot of handling or masking tape, & while you might be tempted to remedy this problem with a sealer or over coat, it will inevitably "kill" the metal look of the paint. Steve

Same here. A cotton cloth has always worked best for me too. A cotton swab or the like is fine, but what I've found is the more pressure you can put on the foil while burnishing, the shinier it will get. You can only get so much muscle behind a Q-tip. Steve

You're absolutely right Ray! It's just a little disheartening for builders like us to see these rare & beautiful old kits sitting on a shelf some where never to be built. But, you have to look @ the flip side as well. If it weren't for this sort of collector, there wouldn't be any of these pristine vintage kits around for us & the next generation of builders to buy. So in a way, they're doing us a service. Just in slow motion. Steve

Looks like another one in very fine shape bill! You seem to be a lot like me. Accumulating new projects much faster than you could ever build them! Steve

Yes, they have what they call the "Vintage Vault". But have your biggest check book handy! You'll need it! Steve

As of right now, one of the best I've built is the Mobius '55 Chrysler 300. Steve

Here's a few you could try. But be warned, you'll pay for them! You'll likely find much better deals on ebay with a little time & patience Steve http://gasolinealleyantiques.com http://vintageplasticmodelkits.com http://modelroundup.com (Go to the "Vintage Vault")

No, not really. I've never given much thought to how to pull it off of the backing. I'm sure I do it differently every time depending on position. Steve

Here's a little bit better representation of the color. Steve