StevenGuthmiller

Hey, I think any time you get to see a bunch of the same type of car in one place is a good thing! Steve

Another good practice would be to paint your roof first, then when you mask, all you have to cover is a small area. I paint the roof first then cover it with masking paper & a minimal amount of Tamiya tape between the colors. You can get a roll of masking paper at any home improvement store for 6-8 bucks. Enough to last you forever. I think you would probably have good luck polishing out the damage. As long as your paint is "deep" enough to take it, & there's no issues with the paint that caused the problem in the first place. Steve

Thanks everybody. I guess unless someone comes out with a '61 Desoto, I'm done with this body style for a while. I know Modelhaus did a resin '61 Desoto, so maybe some day. Steve

This one will be all one color. I'm sort of doing a tribute build for a good high school friend who is no longer with us. He had a dark maroon '64 4 door hardtop with a black & white interior back in school. I've never been a huge fan of the styling of the '63-'64 Chryslers, but I've grown to appreciate the "art deco" styling of the '64 especially. Steve

I have a pair of '63s as well one hardtop & a convertible. The convertible is a little rough but the hardtop will be built someday. This will basically be the first installment of my '62-'68 300 builds. I have a '65 & a '66 waiting in the wings to be built soon as well as a '62. The rest will be coming also, but a little later. I don't want to get burnt out on 300s! Steve

I was wondering the same thing for my '64 300 build. I was going to do red primer with over spray, but maybe I need to do a little more research. Although, a lot of these cars were immediately undercoated for rust protection anyway & would have been black. Steve

Another good color in my opinion is the metallic "Mint Green". Maybe not the most attractive color, but it was very popular in the late 60s-early 70s. When the day comes to build my '68 300, it will be that color. Steve

I agree. There was obviously something going on with the paint too. Sometimes it's hard to come up with a reason for these things. Could have been a combination of things. Steve In the winter, I set a lot of parts in front of the fireplace in my family room to dry paint or glue faster. That's how I found out that heat & masking tape don't mix. Steve

I don't mind the "thread hijacking" Ron. I like seeing other peoples builds. gives me ideas! Steve

Yes it is Squadron Green Dave. It does shrink a bit, but I really haven't had much problem with it. Much better than the Testors stuff!! Steve

I use heat to force dry paint all the time, just not when there's masking tape involved. The heat will make the adhesive on the tape soft & you'll wind up with more adhesive on your paint than the tape. I've also had reactions with the paint that look exactly like what happened to Chris with heat & masking tape. It can do some funny things when you get moisture &-or heat involved. Let's just say it's a good thing to avoid. Steve

Thanks Scott!! Steve

I've had lots of problems over the years with regular masking tape. I was a drywall taper/painter for 25 years & have probably gone through 10,000 rolls of it in that time. It can be fine in most circumstances, but occasionally it can be a real problem. I've had many issues with it leaving behind adhesive for a variety of reasons. Moisture, heat, etc. As far as models go I've had it do everything from leaving behind adhesive that's impossible to remove, to actually ripping paint right off of a body. I guess everybody has their own experiences with a particular item, but personally, regular masking tape never touches my builds directly on paint. Steve

Very nice Richard. Pretty close to what I'm planning. Mine will be "Silvertone Blue" & white 2-tone with the up-top & the connie kit. Factory stock of course. Steve

Am I seeing things Al, or has the Chrysler had the hood glued shut, & rather heavily? That could be an issue. Steve

No casting needed Manuel. I just cut off the top & bottom of the steering wheel, ( the parts to be clear) & then stretch & form heated clear sprue to the size & shape I need, & then glue them together after paint. I decided a while back that I needed to come up with a way to do these as they were quite common in the '59-61 Mopars as well as a lot of Pontiacs from the late 50s all the way through till the late 60s. I have a lot of kits in that category that I've built, & many more to build. Steve

Thanks Guys! It was a fun one except for some chassis issues. For some reason, the chassis seemed to be too long & the rear wheels looked to be too far back to me. So I had to "re-work" things a bit to move them forward. In the process of re-doing things, I got the front end a little low for stock also. But I liked the look so I left it alone. Steve

I had a 1:1 1967 Chrysler 300 in high school Al!! I have 2 of the kits waiting to be built some day. Mine was "Scorch Red" with a black vinyl top. One of my favorite colors from '67 was "Turbine Bronze". I'll be doing a '67 Plymouth in that color eventually. Here's a horrible old photo of my high school baby & some '67 color chips. Very nice score by the way. The Chrysler alone could be worth $100.00! Steve

I like to work my builds in pairs so this will be on the bench at the same time as my '58 Ford convertible build. It'll be mostly factory stock, as usual, with maybe a little bit of artistic license. I don't have the stock wheels & really don't like them anyway, so I'm thinking a set of mid-late 60s Mopar rally wheels will look nice. I've seen several on-line utilizing those wheels & I think it looks very nice. Not sure when the 5-spoke rallys were introduced. Could it have been an option in '64? Also, the engine will be the mid 60s "Short Ram" 413. As far as I've been able to see this engine option was available, for the final time, in '64, but I'll be using the 1961 engine color pallet for this build rather than the correct '64. by '64 the engines were "Chrysler Turquoise". In '61 the engine was black & the intake manifold was red with gold air cleaners. I'll also be using gold on the valve covers. Looking forward to getting started on this one. By the way, colors will be "Royal Ruby" with a black & white interior. Steve

This project has sat long enough. Time to get it back on the bench. The chrome parts should be back from Chrome Tech any day so there's no reason to put it on the back burner any longer. Steve

Thanks Gene! That's quite a compliment! I have really grown to love the 1960-'61 Chrysler/ Desoto body style. I think it's one of those cars that has historically gotten very little attention. But the more time I spent looking at them, ( I built 3 in the past couple of years) & doing research on them, the more I had grown to appreciate the clean & elegant lines of the '60s especially. The fact that the '60 New Yorker was so "un-addorned" with trim when compared to other cars from 1960, just proves to me the beauty & simplicity of the design. I'm sure there are those that will think I'm crazy praising this huge winged behemoth, but, as they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Steve

Thanks guys! I appreciate your positive comments! Steve

The only time I've had this sort of problem is if I try to "force dry" by setting the body in front of a heat source of some kind. I'm not sure if the heat softens the paint enough to leave marks from the tape in the paint or what. I never use garden variety masking tape on my builds any more. Way too many issues can come about with that stuff. I use almost exclusively Tamiya masking tape & blue painters tape, as well as masking paper. The less tape touching your paint the better. steve

You're right Al! But I do still have yet to finish my '60 Imperial! That's a little closer to Continental competition. I lean a little more towards the Mopar side of the spectrum! But I do love 'em all!! Steve

I've got 2 jars of MCW paint for '57 Ford products that I have yet to find a use for. "Silver Mocha" & "Coral Sand". This may be a good opportunity to use one of them up! Steve