StevenGuthmiller

Thanks Bill! Many times, what I'll do is basically use Duplicolor paints as my "base coat". if i can find a similar color in Duplicolor to what ever MCW paint I'm using, I'll use the Duplicolor for the first couple of coats & then the MCW for my final coat. Saves the "good stuff" for another build, plus if you're painting the body along with under hood, chassis, interior parts, etc, a 1 ounce jar can be a little light sometimes. There's nothing worse than running out of paint in the middle of a project. Steve

Things seem to be going relatively slowly on this build, but I think it's mostly because I spent a few days prepping & mounting parts for re-chroming. But, I finally got the body prep & priming done, so hopefully I can start shooting some color over the next few days. Steve

All I can tell you Bill is what I've learned from experience from using the stuff. I assume he just uses a finer particulate metallic in his paints being as they're formulated exclusively for model cars. I've found that the metallic in the Testors paints is, for the most part, wildly out of scale for 1/25th scale, & most of the duplicolor paints that I have used are better, but still not accurate. Just take a look on my Fotki page. Almost all of my builds have been painted with MCW paints, at least all of the metallic painted ones. Some of them, like the '58 Impala, painted "Cay Coral" metallic, are almost hard to pick out the "flakes", but the metallic "sheen" is still there making the paint look much more realistic. Steve http://public.fotki.com/stevenguthmiller/

Finished up tonight!! Will post pics in "Under Glass" as soon as I get some good ones taken! Steve http://public.fotki.com/stevenguthmiller/1960-chrysler-new-yorker/

I agree with Steve! If you're going to use automotive paints, prime, prime, prime!! Nothing will ruin your attitude quicker than a destroyed kit body from crazing! I usually use 4 or 5 coats of good primer. Use what works for you but I would always rather error on the side of caution in this case. Steve

Sounds like the answer to me. Better to take a sliver out of the center of the bumper than to try hacking apart the body. Steve

The hits keep coming from you Peter!! wasn't it just a short time ago you were complaining of "builders block", or am I mistaken? Another beautiful build! I especially like the interior. So cleanly done! Keep up the great work Pete!! Steve

I've been using MCW paints almost exclusively for the past several years. These are automotive colors, I believe, from Dupont. The thing I really like about the MCW paints is, They're pre-thinned for airbrush application. Just stir & shoot it on! Another thing I love about it is that the metallic in the paint is to scale for 1/25th, unlike the Testors metallics & even the Duplicolor paints. I love the stuff & will never go back! Steve http://mcwautomotivefinishes.com

I think we dodged that for now, but we'll get our share very soon here in Minnesota! Steve

Looks nice Al! But I agree, what's the deal with that bumper? Could it be another example of bad kit engineering? Kind of makes you wonder if these guys ever just slap one of these things together quick just to make sure things fit before they pawn them off on the public. I mean honestly, that things gotta be hanging over a good 1/4 inch on both sides! It's not even close! There's something seriously wrong with those head lights too. It's just so frustrating to put all that love & attention into a kit, & you clearly did Al, & then have things like that so far out of whack. Well, I applaud you for a job well done. Just wish the manufacturer would have put in half as much effort as you did! Steve

Depends greatly on the type of paint used. Occasionally I get an old kit that was painted years ago with model paints, whether sprayed or with a brush, & the stuff will strip right to bare plastc in the matter of an hour or two. If it's a lacquer or some oddball stuff, it may take a lot longer. It won't even touch some kinds of primer or flat enamels. Flat black is particularly bad. Steve

Wow! 4 years before it started to rust! Obviously you never had a Vega! If you were lucky you might get 2 out of a Vega. Just about the same amount of time it took for the aluminum engine to melt down into a puddle. Steve

I use Testors laquer primers for my first couple of coats. The Duplicolor primer I use for the following coats is a little too hot & can craze the plastic if you put it on too heavy. The Testors stuff gives me a base to help guard against that. I'm sure there are other primers available that would work as well for that purpose, but, as they say, beggers can't be choosers. You use what's readily available to you. The only thing even resembling a hobby shop in my area is Hobby Lobby & they carry Testors paints & seems that all of the auto parts stores around here only carry Duplicolor. At least that's all I've found to this point. I've had fine luck with the Testors #28137 Gray primer. I just wouldn't put an automotive lacquer directly over the top of it. Had issues with that in the past. Steve

It's a Studebaker! Improvements may be necessary! Looks great so far! Steve

I understand what you're trying to do there. If you look at most cars, you'll see some orange peel in the paint. The only problem is, just like everything else when you're working with 1/25th scale, Is scale. How to keep you're orange peel in scale..... You don't want your "bumps" to be the actual size of oranges. Steve

Every body will have their own technique for painting & polishing. You pretty much have to take what you hear & develop your own. Whatever works for you. Personally I use clear coats & "Micro-Mesh" polishing pads, starting with the lightest grit possible. Then finish with "Novus" liquid polishes. Steve

I cut the glass with the intention of using it in my '59 Dodge. I'll bet it was nearly 1/8th inch thick! That may be an exaggeration, but not by much! I wound up using glass from another '59 Dodge with green glass. Which worked out great any way. Pre-tinted! Steve

No. I paint inside. Which is another reason I think Humidity may not play a huge role in the problem. My shop is air conditioned in the summer & heated in the winter. Nice dry forced air heat. So dry in fact, I nearly electrocute myself all winter long everytime I touch a light switch! Steve

I wouldn't worry about it too much Gene. I usually don't polish metallic paints directly without a clear coat for fear of "smearing" the metal flakes, (not sure what the correct term would be) but I'm sure that the clouding will polish out just fine. I've just never tried it. The dewpoints can be in the 70s for a good portion of the summer here, & pretty much non-existant in the winter when it's 30 below, & I still get that clouding most of the time with Duplicolor. I think it has more to do with the formulation of the paint than the humidity. I use a lot of MCW lacquers as well, shot through an airbrush, & I never have that problem with it. Steve

The Duplicolor paint does that just about every time I use it. Whether it's the middle of summer, or the dead of winter. The humidity levels are in nearly "negative" territory in January in Minnesota & it still does it for me. Luckily, I use Testors clears over it & it shines it right up. Steve

Looking good Richard! I know what you mean about the side glass. Especially on these X-EL promos. The glass is about an inch thick! Probably on purpose being as they had no interior. It's like looking through a dirty fish bowl! Steve

Isn't it what you feed your dod out of? Steve

Not sure what it is exactly that they spray on the parts before plating, but it's some sort of "yellowish" coating. Steve

Boy! I'll bet I blew up 30 of these old Blazer kits when I was a kid. & when fireworks were legal in Minnesota! Steve

Uuuuh... It's a '62 Studebaker. I think us factory stock guys can probably let this one go! Steve